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I installed the Morimoto Headlights today.

Backroads are much more fun! truck handled a trip across Washington like a champ.

My 2018 5.3 6spd hit 60k. I purchased it 4/19, 2 years and it's been run a lot. All over CA, across the country a few times. Towing my boat... Up mountains, in the woods, etc. I changed the transmission fluid and filter again. First time was at 34k. I would consider this extreme. I did the thermostat delete @34k when I did the fluid change. This time in Putnam new pan in with drain. Now I can drop more often so I can get the fluid fresh. The last time I used yelco fluid that I got for $4.50, but this time out when you use Valvoline because after $4.20. I changed the fluid in the transmission pan and the transfer case. Last time I changed at the differential and use amsoil severe gear in the front and the rear. I will change it around 75k and do another transfluid drop without changing the filter.

I see a "Yellow Panther" in your bumper on the left side by the fog light. Looks like he was stalking you as the picture was taken

Thanks! Night time pic: (BTW, when at home, there's always going to be a cat in my pics, spot one of them in this one ...)

-Used the AEM 30-0300. It came with an exhaust bung that my friend welded into the passenger side of the y-pipe. There is more room for it there. -I got power from the interior drivers side fuse block. There is a big fuse there using 2 of 3 pins. The 3rd exposed pin is what you tap into. I got the idea from this forum. People hard wire dash cams into the same power source. (Key on 12V) -Removed the 110V outlet plug in the console, used a dremel tool to notch the sides a little until the gauge fit nicely -Ran the power wire under the steering wheel to the console/gauge -O2 wiring I routed up the same path as the factory O2 wire, and then up the firewall and over to the passenger fender. Then its routed through the fender. There is a grommet under the top door hinge, I cut an X in that grommet and fed the wire through. It came into the cab near the cabin filter. Then routed over to the console and connected to the gauge. -I also wired up the serial port input so that I can hook it into the computer and Data Log with HP Tuners. Got that info from Goat Rope Garage on YouTube. Everything fits nicely behind the console I didn't take any pictures as I was doing it. If you need pics I can get some.

Hi guys, Here's a update of how things are right now. I tried to find someone in holland who could reprogram my transmission. After a long search I found a guy who works at the gm import dealer. He could help but asked a serious amount of money. So I did the math and bought my own hp tuner hardware. This was only a little bit more expensive than the gm guy asked. But now I can modify my software as often as I want and it's also usefull to read dtc codes and much much more. Got a tunefile from grumpy bear's contact and used it to modify the stock transmission software. Now lets hope that the transmission gets to go way past 100000mls. Thanks guys for all the usefull input.

I'll give you a counterpoint: A damp microfiber rag and nothing else. It works as well as anything I've found. In addition to my truck I've got a '14 Corvette where the interior looks brand new and with very rare exceptions its never been cleaned with anything other than the microfiber rag and a bit of water. ..and the vacuum cleaner of course. I'm definitely not a fan of anything that says its a "protectant" as they all seem to leave some kind of residue.

There's a manual?

Hey Guys! I have a New 2021 Sierra Denali 3.0 Duramax. Love it so far and have been sorting it out nicely. I have had 3 of the previous generation truck. I always mount LED rear backup lights on the rear bumper as some of the places I race have no lights in the parking lots. In the past I pull 12V power and the reverse light as a trigger wire for the relay for the lights, off the trailer wire connector. Well.......this 2021 does not light up that plug unless the trailer is connected. Once you plug in the truck recognizes a trailer is hooked up. For some reason there is 12V that is on but none of the other wires are live till a trailer is hooked up. I thought something was wrong so hooked up the trailer and boom everything then works and the display states trailer hooked up. So...I can get the 12v for the relay but now I am trying to find which wire on the rear tailight harness is the reverse lights? Appears to be the light green one I think?? But this truck is all LED and its a very light gauge wire. Does this truck have a LCM like the german cars.? Light control module. Will it sense a larger load and screw up something?? Pretty common with german cars. Also afraid to mess up any modules? I have wired 10 different pickups this way but the new generation is definetly different! Any advice for a trigger wire on relay?? Is that much of a load to the relay?? Thanks

Given the BCM and how it can react to circuits in the truck being taped into and changing current/load, I'd recommend running a new circuit (wire) to the fuse panel. Auto part stores sell a "tap" that fits into an existing fuse slot and creates two seperate circuits. Use a multi meter to find one that is on when you want it to be (all the time, or with acc, or in run). Its easy to tuck the wire in the headliner and the A pillar.

This is what I have had so far on my 2018 LTZ with Fox Coilovers that level the truck: Wheels: Fuel Sledge 18x9 +1 (Thread Size: M14 x 1.5, 6x5.5(139.7) Bolt Pattern) Tires: Attempt (rub in reverse and full lock): 295/70r18 Nitto Ridge (34.3 x 11.6) First set (no rub): 275/70 (33.2 x 10.8) Nitto Ridge Second set: 295/65 (33.1x11.6) Goodyear DuraTrac (@43k)

put the lasfit in mine today. they look great

Very cool

Optimum Opti-Clean.

did you replace the tcc o-ring on the snout of the pump stator when you changed your converter? this o-ring is what locks or seals the clutch fluid off, if its old and cracked or flattened out, it will leak and you loos clutch lock up.. you should data log the trans first thing. the tech guy at the tuning school can help you out too. but you have to spend 185 buck on the transmission book to get free tech support for 1 year.

Contacted them and that is what they told me to use with my 3.0l. Located a set from Summit Racing. No issues with them and like I mentioned about the same height as the factory setup on #1, wasn't looking to level it. I was going to use the 5100's in the front with the stock springs but figured why not go for complete setup with a more robust shock as I had to pull everything apart to do it anyway, so far no regrets Go for it if you want them back in your life!! -Grover67

Here are a couple of pictures that I took at the dealership of my brand new, fresh out of the wrapper , Denali. The color is Hunter Metallic .

Also try putting shifter into neutral and see it if will crank as well. The most common thing is bad battery cable connection. Do not just look at the connection and think it looks clean, take both cables off the battery, negative cable first, clean terminals and posts. Look carefully where wire enters terminal for any swelling or white powder. Do the same for the other end of both cables, making sure there is no bulging or white powder at end of wire. When re-connecting cables, connect negative last on battery.

Update the lifter was loose, no damage done to the cam literally changed the oil added some additive in with the oil that apparently helps with lifters. Idk if this additive is godly like or what, but we ran it a little bit hooked up a tuner to turn off the afm ****ed with oil pressure and boom no more knoocking and the lifter is back in place. Idk wtf happened or how it happened but im fully deleting the afm system garbage. And of course it was the cylinder that deactivates that was ****ed up

Sure, if I towed 95% of the time, the diesel would be a no brainer. Personally though, I tow maybe 10% or 15% of the time and part of that is a snowmobile trailer that's only around 2600 pounds loaded (rest is a 6000 pounds loaded travel trailer). Besides, my 6.2L is fun when not towing:). I've only had it long enough to get past the 500 mile break in, but I've already seen 22 MPG. For reference, most of my driving these days is on rural two lanes. Also premium is just recommended, not required. Did I mention its fun? I'm retired so I don't have some silly job I have to get to...:)

I already placed the order for chrome and all black from my friends over seas. That’s something I’d consider should I sell out of the next batch relatively quickly.

Nice truck! Of course I'm partial to the color too as it's the same as my 2021 AT4 3500 SRW. I also run the same 5th wheel hitch from B&W and have been very happy with it. I have it set on the highest position and the most rearward position. On my 2021 AT4 3500, I can get almost a full 90* jack knife if I need to (probably 85*, but the trailer wheels start getting very unhappy about it!). Having it in this position allows my pinbox/frame wings to clear the siderails on my Retrax tonneau cover if I'm backing in and getting close to sideways, as long as I'm on mostly level ground. Also with this height, I am still able to close my Retrax cover with the hitch installed.

UPDATE: As per Putco the 2021 is different as far as the trailer plug lighting up without a trailer plugged in. The 2021 needs to see the constant draw from the trailer. The good news is this blade harness WILL work as needed!!!! Thanks Transient !Thanks Zelas ! BIG Help!!!!

I actually just finished a project to add several different lighting systems to the back of my truck. for mine I used a curt adapter for the 7 pin trailer harness and a putco harness intended for tail light bars. I cut up both harnesses and customized them for my exact application, using the curt harness to get 12V and ground and used the putco harness to trigger relays. the backup lights signal to the rear tail light activates a relay which connect power from the 7 pin harness to a set of LED light pods which I have integrated into the corner step pockets. This approach worked very well.

Likely over 1 million vehicles have the modern (2014+) 6.2L engine for the past 7 yrs . It is an excellent engine. Like anything, it can be misused and misrepresented and blamed for things that are not its fault. Don't trust everything you read on the internet as 100% fact.

I have no idea what juat happened there! Good luck Rabbittown, I think you will be hapoy with your decision.

I believe all motors are very reliable. Roll of the dice. You can always get a bad one. Proper maintenance prolongs longevity.

This Is what you want to use. Its plug and play with reverse out. https://www.putco.com/529005

They did change the cylinder deactivation after 2014. And added it to the 6.2. Some of those failed before they left the lot. I haven’t had a problem with my new vehicles but one. It was covered under warranty. This is all for a couple miles per gallon in a controlled environment.

They get to cute with them. Kids that can't keep their mitts out of the cookie jar.

Interesting. I inputted the incorrect gear ratio in that Hypertech programmer, and my truck wigged out big time. It must change a bunch of stuff in addition to the speedo/odo calibration. I only went 2 miles, and I thought my driveline was going to snap! Friggin thing was shifting at the wrong time, and literally every single light in the cluster was on. Never know how these friggin computers will react. They belong in a desktop or laptop - NOT in automobiles!

My 15 didn't have that switch either, but it only seemed to happen on HOT days. Hasn't happened with my 18, yet. I think, since it was "highlighted," that he was referring to the "Immobilizer."

There are some electrical plugs up by the spare tire that allow for the Putco blade tailgate led lightbar to work. I have that accessory and did the install. It was plug and play. The lightbar does illuminate white when put in reverse. Perhaps you could create a harness to work between both ends of the plugs.

Hey Grumpy, I guess you're one of the the lucky ones that hasn't had any major problems come up. I've previously purchased new trucks in 96, 01, 03 & 05. They all needed a few repairs, but not any high dollar expenses like my 2014 has had. Even with all the proper maintenance, my #7 AFM lifter went out at 55K, but fortunately the dealer covered it under power-train warranty, but would have been over $2500 if I had to pay it. This spring, the A/C condenser failed. That was $1100 out of pocket. A month ago the #7 AFM lifter failed again, even though the AFM has been turned off the past 40K miles. It cost me $3500 out of pocket for a DOD delete cam & lifter job. Yes, these new trucks are high tech, fuel efficient, and powerful. What I don't understand is, if GM see's repeated reliability issues, why keep building it the same way with the same parts ? They should't wait till the next major redesign in 10 years to fix it. Not everyone's AFM parts are failing, but there are enough owners with bad ones that you would think it should get their attention. It's not a good way to maintain brand loyalty !

I went another route since I didn't want to take a chance cutting and splicing wires. I bought Curt Industries T-connector 56584 and flat wire extension 58531. The T-connector t's into the big bumper wiring harness behind the bumper and the extension plugs into the T-connector. I then connected my aftermarket reverse lights to the extension. This way nothing in the truck's original wiring is altered. This setup also gives me the option to connect other running lights or turn signals using the remaining wires on the extension with no worry about the trucks original wiring. https://www.curtmfg.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=+56584+Trailer+Wiring+Harness https://www.curtmfg.com/part/58531 I bought some cheap Nilight lights from Walmart in case this idea didn't work so I've got less than $75.00 in this setup. The lights are plenty bright but don't wash out the camera at night.

Just picked up my '21 last night! Cherry Red Crew Cab RST Z71, 5.3 with DFM delete, and bucket seats/center console. My first vehicle ever purchased brand new, so this is me for the next 10 years! Ahh that new ca...TRUCK smell! I might look at a bed cover and leveling kit soon. So, nobody told me about the dim interior lights haha!!

Placebo effect. K&N stickers add 20 hp, A lift kit makes you tall, and loud exhaust makes you powerful. But... Does that mean it doesn't work?

Over fifty years driving and building motors and I break in everything I buy new or rebuild the same. Low and slow just like smoking hams. Lots of early oil changes. I've never had any issues with motors I break in myself. Zero! Wife on the other hand believes break in is pointless and speed limits are suggestions. She has two peddles and one of them in on the floor...always. She's batting .500. Exactly half her motors have used abnormal amounts of oil. They all use 30% more fuel and 'wear items" are replaced 3 to 5 times faster than my stuff. I don't work on her stuff. Never have but I've spent allot of time in the shop with hers waiting on the poor guy that is.

Hey I remember your posts, they were hilarious. Try slowing down and driving with caution. There should be no situation where you driving with any sort of normalcy should put pedestrians in danger and you spin a new truck with stability control. OP, it is a truck with a live rear axle and bumps will throw it out of line if hit right at a descent speed, it is pretty normal with all brands. I have never driven a truck where there wasn't an occasion where the rear steps out a hair in the right situation but I am also driving mostly at a reasonable speed and paying attention to the road. Washboard roads this happens often at higher speeds with a slant or a slight curve. Different shocks can and do help as the stockers were made to handle a wide range of test environments. Either way, this video shows in an extreme (notice none of these trucks step out to spin out and almost hit a pedestrian) how live axles and leaf springs made to carry weight act in regards to bumps... I think trucks these days have gotten a little worse as they have much stiffer frames/body's and the suspension is designed to carry more weight to the suspension is stiffer in most regards. About the only way to really negate this is an IRS. Tyler

I'd pull that parachute before the rockets ever kicked in

I'm not too far away from Death Valley, and drive through the desert occasionally. I'll let you know how it works out.

Today I got finished with the retractable tonneau cover and bed extender. Here are a few images of it. Apparently I cant only do one at a time so I guess Ill put up a couple of posts.

The MAF sensor on 2009+ trucks is built into the airbox lid, it's real slim and nothing like the 2007-2008 as well as previous model years. The 09+ intake has many chambers.

It's like a sound chamber to reduce the intake induction noise, think resonator but for the air intake.

Welcome to the site. Maybe start here? It was the G218 (I think) that had material pinched between nut and framing, half the contact point was covered. This and a loose negative battery terminal.

You have to contact OnStar to actually disconnected along with the Wi-Fi. However, I believe it’s not OnStar or your Wi-Fi is the problem it is your shark fin. My vehicle is doing the same thing along with jumping screens and radio channels and I had to get a HMI upgrade download it along with replacing my shark fin and now my truck works perfect like it was brand new.You have to contact OnStar to actually disconnected along with the Wi-Fi. However, I believe it’s not OnStar or your Wi-Fi is the problem it is your shark fin. My vehicle is doing the same thing along with jumping screens and radio channels and I had to get a HMI upgrade download it along with replacing my shark fin and now my truck works perfect like it was brand new.

My 2017 Silverado 1500 has been doing roughly the same thing for the last three or four months I have took my truck to the dealer had the radio replaced along with the screen also had a hard restart done to the electrical system and I still have the same problem. Just took it to another Chevy dealer and they found that my shark fin was malfunctioning causing my GPS to not work with OnStar along with the fact my HMI unit needed an upgrade. The HMI unit had not been upgraded since the day it was put into the truck from 2016. So almost guarantee you need to have an HMI upgrade and maybe the Shark Fin replaced to fix your truck. Mine has now been working great for a week since I got my HMI update and the Shark Fin replaced.

Bumping this again. Anyone with pictures? Reminder this is stock AT4s only. No levels or modifications (except to cure rubbing)