Jump to content

Is your GMT-900 using oil  

1,555 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Posted

Mine is an 07 with the 5.3 and AFM. I use Mobil 1 or Penzoil Synthetic oil with a Wix oil filter. I changed my oil this weekend with 5000 miles on it. When I drained the oil into the pan, I put it back into the one of the old oil bottles. It filled the bottle back to just over 4 quarts. It takes about 6 quarts to fill the truck to the line.

 

I used about 2 quarts in about 5000 miles.

Posted

We have 17 yes votes but only 6 posting. If you voted yes please post with what is going on with your truck or SUV. What engine you have and if you have done a consumption test.

Posted
When I drained the oil into the pan, I put it back into the one of the old oil bottles. It filled the bottle back to just over 4 quarts. It takes about 6 quarts to fill the truck to the line.

 

Just curious if anyone knows how accurate this is? I am sure there is a certain amount that does not drain out of the truck. Also did you drain the oil out of the filter into the bottle?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I've had to put 2 qts in it since december. appx. 6k miles in that time span. Truck has 12k miles on it. 2010, 5.3

 

it "runs out" and I start getting valve tick.

 

very angry about this, but I don't know what I can do about it other than take it to the dealer and hear the "it aint doin it right now" story.

Edited by darkfox1
Posted

I know, I know, this isn't a truck but I do own it and have noticed this past 1.5yrs it has been using oil between oil changes.

It's a 06 Uplander w/ the 3.9L VVT and it uses .75 quarts between oil changes and I'm using Castrol.

Most be a common issue with these new motors that GM is putting out.

Ring end gap and cylinder wall to piston tolerances must be getting pretty sloppy.

 

So far my truck only has 6000 miles on it with the 6.2 and doesn't use any oil with 1 oil change on the books, and I used Mobil1 SYNC.

Posted
I've had to put 2 qts in it since december. appx. 6k miles in that time span. Truck has 12k miles on it. 2010, 5.3

 

it "runs out" and I start getting valve tick.

 

very angry about this, but I don't know what I can do about it other than take it to the dealer and hear the "it aint doin it right now" story.

 

 

Thats what you need to do. Take it to the dealer and ask for a consumption test. If they refuse contact Chevy customer service.

Posted

Hey Ryan, should we add the year model to the listed poll questions? Or will you be able to pull it from the posts? Seem like the '07 is worse than '08. Wow! ...... 30%

Posted

08 Sierra 5.3 Alum block 33,000 miles- when i changed the oil it was full to the top line on the dipstick, 2500 miles later it is half way down the "ok" area. so i am guessing that is about 1/2 qt of oil used. probably normal for any engine. use valvoline full synthetic

Posted
When I drained the oil into the pan, I put it back into the one of the old oil bottles. It filled the bottle back to just over 4 quarts. It takes about 6 quarts to fill the truck to the line.

 

Just curious if anyone knows how accurate this is? I am sure there is a certain amount that does not drain out of the truck. Also did you drain the oil out of the filter into the bottle?

 

 

I don't know if I would trust this.. What about oil in the filter? Through out the engine? I'd go by before and after on the dip stick.

Posted (edited)
Thats what you need to do. Take it to the dealer and ask for a consumption test. If they refuse contact Chevy customer service.

 

I tried to go today. After waiting in line 20 minutes to get into the service bay I decided to turn around.

 

what is wrong with GM lately? too many chinese parts? I used to never have this problem.

 

tbh at this point I'm just trying to get my project car running good enough to drive it. I feel like my truck isn't reliable anymore. A new vehicle should not drink oil like an alcoholic on a free tab.

Edited by darkfox1
Posted (edited)

I would like to weigh in just a little bit. Just for data and documentation.

 

2008 Suburban LTZ with LC9 engine (5.3 AFM Aluminum block), 88,000 miles now

Mobil 1 synthetic oil since very first oil change. Change oil when DIC says to (6000-8000 miles).

Paid mechanic (NOT dealer) to do oil changes (only one guy has ever changed the oil until the last one). He NEVER told me that the oil level was low going into a change so I didn't think I had an oil consumption issue. Suddenly at about 72,000 miles the ZERO OIL PRESSURE warning came on and scared me to death. I've been driving for 32 years and I have NEVER EVER had that happen before.

Since 72,000, I've been adding a qt of synthetic about every 3-4,000 miles. That, too, has never happened with ANY vehicle I have ever owned. So this really bothered me and I started keeping up with it.

I also have the lifter click at start up for about 5-10 seconds. Idles fine, smooth.

I get 15 mpg city and 18 highway.

Tailpipe has a jet-black dusty ring around it. Sounds to me like if this is an AFM issue, the oil pushing into thsoe cylinders and slowly cooking off on its way out of the vehicle. I NEVER see smoke. Not at startup, idle or run. Someone told me that synthetic won't smoke. Not sure if that is true or not.

 

And since I'm just talking now, I wanted an HD pickup with the diesel to tow my boat. Wife said she didn't want to hear the diesel. Now I'm divorced and wish to heck I hadn't listened to her. I kept the boat. Gave her up.

 

Have read a few places on here, "I love my truck, but I wish it didn't burn oil DITTO! I don't care what ANYONE says, a 2008 model truck that cost $55,000 should NOT burn a qt of oil ever 3,000 miles. If GM says that's normal, then that's part of why GM has been in bad trouble. My 1999 K1500 Suburban ran to 180,000 miles and never used a drop of oil. The tranny gave out after pulling that 6,000 lb boat and trailer. But never used oil. My 1994 C1500 Suburban ran to 150,000 miles and never used a drop of oil. This one disappoints me but my loyalty is to GM so I guess I'm going to stay put.

Edited by RyanbabZ71
  • Like 1
Posted
Tailpipe has a jet-black dusty ring around it.

 

Dont believe this is AFM related as my 2000 always had a "dirty" tailpipe. Never used oil either but did have the startup tick.

Posted (edited)
Mine is an 07 with the 5.3 and AFM. I use Mobil 1 or Penzoil Synthetic oil with a Wix oil filter. I changed my oil this weekend with 5000 miles on it. When I drained the oil into the pan, I put it back into the one of the old oil bottles. It filled the bottle back to just over 4 quarts. It takes about 6 quarts to fill the truck to the line.

 

I used about 2 quarts in about 5000 miles.

 

No offense, but I don't think this is an accurate method to measure if your engine is using oil between changes. Been changing oil for friends and family for 30 years, and you NEVER get as much oil out of the drain pan/old filter as you put new oil back in to fill it. I often drain cars that hold 5.0 quarts into an empty gallon (4.0 quarts) container, and these vehicles are not using a quart of oil between changes, because it was still full on the dipstick before being drained. So, in my experience, I'd say that only new oil added to show 'full' on the dipstick should count as the amount of oil used between changes.

Edited by Maverick Z71
Posted

it does not matter how much a vehicle costs. All vehicles are subject to mechanical failure, no matter how much money is dumped into R&D and testing and all that jazz.

Posted

I have a 09 GMC 6.0l and change the oil when the monitor tells me to, usually about 5000-6000 miles. I always check the dipstick after oil is changed and before I bring it back in and the level usually about 1/4 to 1/2 quart low. Not bad for 5000+ miles.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
    • I went another direction after losing a trailer tire, thanks to not being able to access air at ANY of the 5 gas stations and garages I stopped at prior, with a Toyota Tacoma onboard, 50 miles from the Canadian border. They were either out of order, access was blocked, or the hose a few feet too short and I couldn't get any closer without risking damage to someone's property.   https://postimg.cc/gallery/X5QJ55w
    • I took a 12 second video on my iphone but the file is too big to upload. I will have to figure out how to extract the audio or just do another start with an audio recording. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...