Jump to content

Annoying Belt Squeal

Beebe

Recommended Posts

Beebe Enthusiast

Beebe

Posted
Posted

I have a 2000 Silverado 5.3L with 167,000 miles on it. I had to replace my power steering pump awhile back, so I replaced the main belt with a Gates. I started hearing a squal so I looked in to it. I have replaced the idler pulley, both tensioners, and the alternator. Still squeals like a pig. So my mechanic friend grabbed some carb cleaner and shot the belt while it was running. Noise stopped dead while spraying it on. Once he stopped spraying, it comes back. I have no idea what the heck to do. Any thoughts? All the pulleys and such feel fine. :rolleyes:

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

i assume you meant annoying so I fixed the title for ya

sillyazz Enthusiast

sillyazz

Posted
Posted

Make sure your power steering pump pully is flush with the end on the shaft , if its not it will cause a squeek/ squeel and it doesnt take much to make it do it .

jblakeney Senior Enthusiast

jblakeney

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a miss alignment.....

 

Just me but, when you were running the pulley down on the power steering pump, did you take it all the way till the nut bottomed out on the shaft????? IE, your end of your shaft should be flush with the power steering pulley hub. And you didn't change the water pump pulley.... Takes some 400 grit paper and rough it up a little. I have seen new belts on old pulleys make noise because the pulley has become glazed from the old belt (especially the pulleys that ride on the back of the belt, ie the smooth side).

 

You've replaced tensioners and idler..... Which pulley was your buddy spraying with carburetor cleaner? When the noise stopped.

 

Jbo

Beebe Enthusiast

Beebe

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Sounds like a miss alignment.....

 

Just me but, when you were running the pulley down on the power steering pump, did you take it all the way till the nut bottomed out on the shaft????? IE, your end of your shaft should be flush with the power steering pulley hub. And you didn't change the water pump pulley.... Takes some 400 grit paper and rough it up a little. I have seen new belts on old pulleys make noise because the pulley has become glazed from the old belt (especially the pulleys that ride on the back of the belt, ie the smooth side).

 

You've replaced tensioners and idler..... Which pulley was your buddy spraying with carburetor cleaner? When the noise stopped.

 

Jbo

 

First off thanks everyone. I tried the sandpaper trick, didn't work. My buddy wasn't spraying a pulley, it was on the smooth side of the belt betweer the alternator and PS pump. I just checked the pulley. The shaft is about 1/8" depper then the front of the pulley hub. Is this the problem? Should I push the pulley on deeper?

Thanks

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted
Sounds like a miss alignment.....

 

Just me but, when you were running the pulley down on the power steering pump, did you take it all the way till the nut bottomed out on the shaft????? IE, your end of your shaft should be flush with the power steering pulley hub. And you didn't change the water pump pulley.... Takes some 400 grit paper and rough it up a little. I have seen new belts on old pulleys make noise because the pulley has become glazed from the old belt (especially the pulleys that ride on the back of the belt, ie the smooth side).

 

You've replaced tensioners and idler..... Which pulley was your buddy spraying with carburetor cleaner? When the noise stopped.

 

Jbo

 

First off thanks everyone. I tried the sandpaper trick, didn't work. My buddy wasn't spraying a pulley, it was on the smooth side of the belt betweer the alternator and PS pump. I just checked the pulley. The shaft is about 1/8" depper then the front of the pulley hub. Is this the problem? Should I push the pulley on deeper?

Thanks

 

Sounds like you may have found the problem. You can check the alignment of pulleys with a straightedge.

sillyazz Enthusiast

sillyazz

Posted
Posted
Sounds like a miss alignment.....

 

Just me but, when you were running the pulley down on the power steering pump, did you take it all the way till the nut bottomed out on the shaft????? IE, your end of your shaft should be flush with the power steering pulley hub. And you didn't change the water pump pulley.... Takes some 400 grit paper and rough it up a little. I have seen new belts on old pulleys make noise because the pulley has become glazed from the old belt (especially the pulleys that ride on the back of the belt, ie the smooth side).

 

You've replaced tensioners and idler..... Which pulley was your buddy spraying with carburetor cleaner? When the noise stopped.

 

Jbo

 

First off thanks everyone. I tried the sandpaper trick, didn't work. My buddy wasn't spraying a pulley, it was on the smooth side of the belt betweer the alternator and PS pump. I just checked the pulley. The shaft is about 1/8" depper then the front of the pulley hub. Is this the problem? Should I push the pulley on deeper?

Thanks

 

Yes Make sure its flush It only takes a little tiny bit to make it noisy.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

Belts typically squeal when the belt tension is insufficient to drive the accessories that put load on the belt.

 

Have you checked the automatic belt tensioner spring? A bad bearing in one of the idle pulleys can cause the problem. A bad bearing in one of the accessories such as alternator can also cause too much drg and belt slipping.

Beebe Enthusiast

Beebe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

THANK YOU!!!!!!! It was the PS pulley not being flush. See, when I replaced the pump the pulley bottomed out and would not turn, so I backed it off. Well I backed it off a bit to much. Again, THANKS, I have my sanity back.

jblakeney Senior Enthusiast

jblakeney

Posted
Posted
THANK YOU!!!!!!! It was the PS pulley not being flush. See, when I replaced the pump the pulley bottomed out and would not turn, so I backed it off. Well I backed it off a bit to much. Again, THANKS, I have my sanity back.

 

Victory...... And another squeaky belt stops squealing.

 

Jbo

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Oil Consumption

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I agree.   However, the owner's manual, suggests that a drop over full is just as bad as a drop under. (Read black and white letters only, insert no common sense.)
    • asilverblazer
      Transmission Woes :-(

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      That P0700 and loss of power suggests something significant is amiss to me.   More/other codes may suggest otherwise; I would investigate those prior to spending the money to change fluid on a transmission with a bad torque converter.    The relatively sudden escalation of symptoms to me suggests that something began failing (initial shuddering experienced) and rapidly deteriorated (slipping/loss of power). Fluid condition alone wouldn't cause the sudden escalation of problems - though it might have been the cause of the deterioration up to the point of failure.
    • asilverblazer
      AWD conversion to Z71

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Stabilitrack operation is in a sense a separate/independent operation from the operation of 'traction control'. Stabilitrack is used to keep the vehicle traveling in the DIRECTION intended, it can brake independent wheels and or adjust throttle to influence the direction the vehicle is moving.   This can be illustrated by a 'fish-tailing' example. At high speeds, if the stabilitrack detects excessive yaw (the vehicle spinning like a top, it has a sensor for this), based on inputs from steering angle it determines that the vehicle is spinning out of control, and begins working to control that unintended spin. By reducing throttle input or braking specific wheels to control or prevent the spin.   The traction control works similarly using the ABS system to slow spinning wheels and thus transfer power to 'other' wheels. The goal being to achieve wheel speeds that are all in agreement with each other, the truck then assumes that since all the wheels speeds are the same no spinning is occurring. For example, launching up a wet boat ramp, there is no excessive yaw present, traction control alone can manage the wheel spin by braking spinning wheels and cutting throttle.   Stabilitrack and traction control from a hardware and software standpoint are basically one in the same, I don't remember specifically in 2004, but you couldn't get a truck with one and not the other. The switch on the dash, could turn off the traction control, but not necessarily the stabilitrack.    A confusing comment about stabilitrack vs. traction control, the same components serve both operations, but marketing could advertise them as two separate features.    The AWD system is another separate system entirely, in addition to the other two, it uses the same wheel speed inputs but can also vary the transfer case clutch application to direct some power to the front axle, working in conjunction with the traction control to bring wheel speeds together.   The power split will never be greater than 50:50, the same as 4-high. It will never direct MORE power to the front axle than the rear.
    • tjonesdfw
      Start-Stop ?

      By tjonesdfw · Posted

      Not based on the new photos I'm seeing.  Car and Driver posted additional photos that shows an auto stop start button left of the steering wheel.      
    • tjonesdfw
      2027 Chevrolet Silverado: Official Discussion

      By tjonesdfw · Posted

      Car and Driver is reporting wireless CarPlay WILL remain, and they posted several additional photos, including a left knee shot, but the only hard buttons there are e-brake, auto start stop, tailgate and cargo light.  Also definitely looks like High Country and ZR2 get micro fiber on the center of the console lid and the ZR2 possibly also on the seats.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...