6.2L (L9H) Owners - Get all your questions answered here

[Buddy67Lincoln]

I am just surprised NOT one person from GM can tell me which lifters are typically the problem, or if its any lifter at any given time. I need to decide on replacing all of the ones that aren't bad while the engine is apart. If the new ones go bad; then screw it; what's the point? They said the part numbers are different but WHAT CAUSED THIS ISSUE IN THE FIRST PLACE???!!! Replacing broken parts doesn't fix the issue if the lifter the victim of something else being wrong. Should they check the oil pump too? Or are the new lifters improved???! I can't get an fricking answer from anyone. Its like a conspiracy

[Jsdirt]

Totally hear ya. What a friggin joke. Hope you get the answers someplace ...

[Buddy67Lincoln]

Got the call today after the 6.2 in my 2010 Yukon Denali was completely torn down. Collapsed lifter which ruined the rocker and the push rod. Unreal! Luckily I am not flipping the bill since I just bought it. I am paying $300 parts only to replace the remaining lifters with new ones so avoid this disaster in the future. Everything else checks out fine and pressure was checked. Oil pump is fine too. This could have been a major disaster down the road. GM so far has done nothing to fix this. $65,000 SUV...how do they expect me to buy a brand new one after this! The Ford dealer I bought it from is paying for GMs mistake just to make things right with me. Maybe I need to switch?!

[EX-F150 owner]

Got the call today after the 6.2 in my 2010 Yukon Denali was completely torn down. Collapsed lifter which ruined the rocker and the push rod. Unreal! Luckily I am not flipping the bill since I just bought it. I am paying $300 parts only to replace the remaining lifters with new ones so avoid this disaster in the future. Everything else checks out fine and pressure was checked. Oil pump is fine too. This could have been a major disaster down the road. GM so far has done nothing to fix this. $65,000 SUV...how do they expect me to buy a brand new one after this! The Ford dealer I bought it from is paying for GMs mistake just to make things right with me. Maybe I need to switch?!

I am here after owning 2 F150's, both having transmission issues. The tranny in the 05 failed at 66K miles. It also had a couple injectors fail at two different times. The second time it took out one converter. At 5K miles the complete sunroof assembly and headliner had to be replaced after 2 previous repair attempts. The dealer finally replaced everything when it got stuck opened.

 

Pick your poison

Edited November 7, 2015 by EX-F150 owner

[Jsdirt]

Everything is junk today. You can't win!

 

Best course of action is to buy something built 40 years ago, and install modern components on it yourself. Wish I had taken my own advice. I was an idiot, and bought an '07 Silverado back in '07. I've done just as much repair work to this thing as I have to cars 4 decades older!

Edited November 7, 2015 by Jsdirt

['01LS1]

Got the call today after the 6.2 in my 2010 Yukon Denali was completely torn down. Collapsed lifter which ruined the rocker and the push rod. Unreal! Luckily I am not flipping the bill since I just bought it. I am paying $300 parts only to replace the remaining lifters with new ones so avoid this disaster in the future. Everything else checks out fine and pressure was checked. Oil pump is fine too. This could have been a major disaster down the road. GM so far has done nothing to fix this. $65,000 SUV...how do they expect me to buy a brand new one after this! The Ford dealer I bought it from is paying for GMs mistake just to make things right with me. Maybe I need to switch?!

 

How many miles were on it when you bought it?

Were you able to obtain service records for it?

Anything show up when running the VIN at a GM dealership?

[Brendan Cosworth]

So I have a weird one for you guys. Only when the truck is cold when I start it there is a very loud thunk noise, but only 1. It doesn't need to 'warm' up to go away. It literally goes away after 1 revolution (or close to). I've listened to probably 20 youtube videos of cold piston slap and it definitely doesn't sound like that. It almost sounds like a metal on metal thwack. Hard to explain. I'll have to get a video of it later today after the vehicle cools down.

Doesn't do it in +5 degree temp and doesn't do it once the block is warmed. Like I said there is only 1 quick noise and that is it. Not sure what it is.

Edited December 23, 2015 by Cosworth

[Brendan Cosworth]

So I have a weird one for you guys. Only when the truck is cold when I start it there is a very loud thunk noise, but only 1. It doesn't need to 'warm' up to go away. It literally goes away after 1 revolution (or close to). I've listened to probably 20 youtube videos of cold piston slap and it definitely doesn't sound like that. It almost sounds like a metal on metal thwack. Hard to explain. I'll have to get a video of it later today after the vehicle cools down.

Doesn't do it in +5 degree temp and doesn't do it once the block is warmed. Like I said there is only 1 quick noise and that is it. Not sure what it is.

 

Well gauge was showing below the lowest line and it didn't do it. But it was parked on the street and I manually started it. I always remote start the truck when I am on my way out in the morning. So I'll try and manually start it tomorrow after sitting. I wonder if it is a lifter noise because the oil bleeds out of it?

[Brendan Cosworth]

So had a chance to start it this morning. Luckily it doesnt sound like a metallic noise like I thought, it more sounds like a snuff noise. Almost like a valve cover breather. Kind of strange. Thoughts?

 

 

[Jsdirt]

Tough over the net ... but it sounds like it may have an exhaust manifold leak where it meets the pipe. I think it might be after the cat on these new ones - can't remember. I think that's how mine is. Might just get away with tightening the bolts if that's indeed where the sound is coming from ...

 

It would go away when warm, I would think, if it was an exhaust leak that small.

[RyanbabZ71]

So had a chance to start it this morning. Luckily it doesnt sound like a metallic noise like I thought, it more sounds like a snuff noise. Almost like a valve cover breather. Kind of strange. Thoughts?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qz5eLBfJTwQ

Mine has had that noise (only when below freezing) since new so 6 yrs now. It has not concerned me as I remember my old 2000 having a similar sound

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Brendan Cosworth]

Tough over the net ... but it sounds like it may have an exhaust manifold leak where it meets the pipe. I think it might be after the cat on these new ones - can't remember. I think that's how mine is. Might just get away with tightening the bolts if that's indeed where the sound is coming from ...

 

It would go away when warm, I would think, if it was an exhaust leak that small.

 

Awesome, so not going to throw a pushrod through the intake, that is all I care at this point. haha

 

Mine has had that noise (only when below freezing) since new so 6 yrs now. It has not concerned me as I remember my old 2000 having a similar sound

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Good to know, yeah the first couple times it sounded violent but now it sounds like just a crap load of air being sucked in. Glad to know it isn't me and/or a sign of impending failure.

[RyanbabZ71]

No it should be fine

 

 

Ryan

[Madcow2020]

Sounds like the starter bendix is sticking. And probably doesn't do it when warm because the grease is warmer.

 

 

Sent from the future via a wifi time portal.

[Brendan Cosworth]

Sounds like the starter bendix is sticking. And probably doesn't do it when warm because the grease is warmer.

 

 

Sent from the future via a wifi time portal.

 

That could very well be it as well. If that happens to be it, what would be worst case that one day it wouldn't disengage? Shouldn't cause much more than starter failure I would imagine (which really isn't a huge deal in the scheme of things).