Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

hi, i have a 97 chevy c1500 4.3 vortex v6 that was given to me. It had sat for about a year and a half before i picked it up. When i received it i put a new fuel pump and filter cleaned out the gas tank. It ran fine for 2 or 3 days and i drove 45 miles and it run fine. one day i drove it about 20 miles and it stalled, immediately when it started it would go then cut out again you couldn't go 50 ft without it losing power. The next day i changed the tps then cleaned the aic helped slightly but not much. Well come to find out my catalytic converter was blowing out honeycomb so we replaced it with a muffler since the real muffler had been cut (and no not directly under the truck we piped it out then put the muffler under the bed). It will idle but still wont run correctly i have heard there might be 2 fuel filters i will check that tomorrow. i will also ohm the 02 sensors to make sure the are working properly but they appear to be fine. Can anyone help me?

Posted

I have a 97' GMC Sierra K1500 with the 5.7L and it's got an O2 sensor mounted on each catalytic converter. If yours is the same configuration on the 4.3L, then i suspect by changing out the cat with a muffler, you'd get inaccurate O2 readings at the ECM.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I had a similar problem on my 96 k1500 come to find out it was a $13 relay that was bad. Which made a bad connection which added up to wrong/no fuel pressure. And even now sometimes it rattles loose and runs funny I just have to push it back down and away I go.

Posted

And the sensor after the cat doesn't change how it runs its supposed to measure how well the cats working. The two front ones change the fuel mixture. How is it at idle? Do you have any codes? Have you checked the dist. Cap wires and plugs? Or maybe a vacuum leak? Just some ideas let us know what you find good luck!

Posted

Ok I replaced that relay ill check to make sure it's pushed down. no in fact after I cut that o2 off the check engine light cut off and has not come back. I changed the distrib. Cap and rotor button that got it drive able it's still not right though, I changed the plugs also. I used sea foam and it blew out a tremendous amount of carbon when it did so right now I have no idea. After the sea foam it idled perfect.

Posted

That's true. What about the fuel pressure regulator? Maybe have the fuel pressure tested and see how much pressure is getting there.

 

You could disconnect the engine side of the fuel filter and turn the key on then atleast you would know if its getting past there or not but it should e with the new filter. Does it still idle good?

 

Maybe a vacuum leak making it run really lean? Maybe take the air filter off and see if it helps.

 

Has the cel come back on?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...