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Posted (edited)

Interesting innovative approach to getting into the housing. I think some polyurethane structural adhesive would be a more reliable bond than cyanoacrylate glue for the reassembly.

Edited by spurshot
Posted

Ok... here are some pic and details on my install -

 

2014 Sierra - SLT with LED DRL.

HID kit -

MOPAR LOW BEAM: MORIMOTO ELITE HID SYSTEM

Ballasts - 3Five DSP

Harness Type - HD Relay 9012

Bulbs – 3Five 4,300

Capacitor Link

Keep in mind this was my first ever HID install. I know nothing about this stuff. But I guess I did it correct because it worked on the first try. As stated in some previous posts, the real estate on the passenger side is tight due to the air box, and that's where the main input connection is. Driver side is a breeze, all kinds of room.

​I put silicone and/ or electric tape around most the connections, relay and ballast just to be safe. Doesn't really look nice, but I figured the extra protection from water couldn't hurt. I just mounted the ballast and relay with extreme double sided tape.

Relay mounted under the plastic shroud up top -

IMG_20140814_085852_313_zps0bwvj9ry.jpg

passenger side -

IMG_20140814_091244_987_zpsmqiajm0m.jpg

IMG_20140814_092007_893_zpsmougejku.jpg

Driver side -

IMG_20140814_085843_755_zpsqgm0args.jpg

Posted

I have a question about the black plastic cap on the back of the headlights. I cut a 1in hole to pass everything through. However, on my kit the input also had to passed through the hole. Basically in the end, I couldn't use the rubber hole cover thing that was attached to the wires. I had to leave the hole in the black plastic cap wide open, and fill with Rubber Butyl Tape when I was done.

The rubber tape covers the hole, but I would like something a little more "solid" .. and maybe just use the tape around the sides. What is the name of the little cover plate part I'm thinking about?

Posted

I found some Rubber grommets in the HELP section at the auto parts store... they fit like a glove. Exit hole much smaller.... just filled that in with silicone.

Posted

looks like a good install for a first timer, but your going to HATE the beam pattern. what's worse if you decide to upgrade and do the projectors you'll need new ballasts, bulbs and the projectors, you can re use the relay kit though.

Posted (edited)

looks like a good install for a first timer, but your going to HATE the beam pattern. what's worse if you decide to upgrade and do the projectors you'll need new ballasts, bulbs and the projectors, you can re use the relay kit though.

 

On the kit I have from them, there is a connector between the ballast and the bulb. TRS sells a projector retrofit kit with just a jumper from the ballast connector to the bulbs along with the retrofit projector. So, bulbs are all that doesn't get reused.

 

Here's the illumination of my low beams with the morimoto 35w kit in the factory projectors. I have to admit, there is a 'star' like pattern that bothers me. But it's so much better than the stock lights that I'm calling it "acceptable" and then some. Much better peripheral illumination too.

 

DSC_7806Large_zpsd557c4fd.jpg

 

 

Combine the HID improvement with the LED driving lights I installed for off-road and back-roads and I'm covered for everything I need.

 

DSC_7808Large_zpsa6d306d6.jpg

Edited by spurshot
Posted (edited)

I ran the Mopar Elite system from TRS as well with single input and capacitor all built right in with H11 5000k bulbs. I will take some photos of it as I have found a nice clean looking way to do the install that I think all will like. All my components are hidden under the front cover and my relays are mounted vertical properly. The room is there for it. Only can see one wire that comes out to lead to the battery but I have that traveling under the front mini brace from fender to core support.

 

I just used http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/morimoto-mopar-xenon-relay-wire-harness-48653.html#.U-4QR_ldV8E as my harness.

Edited by rxnotec
Posted

I have a silverado lt with regular headlights. Can I install hid or I have to get projectors?

Posted

I have a silverado lt with regular headlights. Can I install hid or I have to get projectors?

Technically speaking no you don't absolutly need projectors, HOWEVER, I believe most if not all states require that an HID bulb be used only inside of a projector housing and also I know other drivers on the road would greatly appreciate if you had projectors. If you put HIDs in a reflector housing then the reflector will not properly aim the light nor focus properly, causing your headlights to basically become a flood light shinning light in almost all directions.

Posted

Thanks Mike. Think I'm going to look into those headlights from anzo.

Posted (edited)

For 2014 Silverado LTZ Z71

Lights from The Retrofit Source

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/

 

Here are my install pics using the MOPAR Low Beam Harness with built in Capacitor and 5000k H11 Bulbs from TRS.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/morimoto-mopar-xenon-relay-wire-harness-48653.html

Had flicker issues right away but then discovered the capacitor was wired in to the wrong side so just re-pinned it and it was all good to go. Re-pinned the OEM plug connection so it can remain inside the protective cup as well. Received some good assistance from TRS rep Carlos in trying to figure out what that flicker issue was. Big thumbs up to TRS for a great kit and great customer service.

 

TIP: Use a 7/8" Auger bit or hole saw. The grommet is tight to get in but fits perfect. Contrary to what people have said about using a 1" bit. The 7/8" removes the need to add butyl to it. This is my 5th HID install with no issues in this method.

 

Passenger Side: Mounted and protected by the plastic front core support cover. There is an existing hole I used to bolt the relays down to. Vertical as recommended by TRS.

post-133203-0-01329800-1408139645_thumb.jpg

 

Driver side. Again mounted in a heavily protected area from the elements.

post-133203-0-63955300-1408139650_thumb.jpg

 

7/8" auger bit and grommet fits snug and perfectly clean.

post-133203-0-16928400-1408139655_thumb.jpg

 

Nothing to see here that HID is present from the front. You can only see the couple wires coming out the cup from behind the light but not seen from the front.

post-133203-0-40404900-1408139660_thumb.jpg

 

Don't have a night shot yet but I will add one as soon as I can. They are a great clean white on the road.

post-133203-0-53688000-1408139665_thumb.jpg

 

Any questions on Silverado LTZ and above installs hit me up.

post-133203-0-01329800-1408139645_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-63955300-1408139650_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-16928400-1408139655_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-40404900-1408139660_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-53688000-1408139665_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-01329800-1408139645_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-63955300-1408139650_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-16928400-1408139655_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-40404900-1408139660_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-53688000-1408139665_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-01329800-1408139645_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-63955300-1408139650_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-16928400-1408139655_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-40404900-1408139660_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-53688000-1408139665_thumb.jpg

Edited by rxnotec
  • Like 1
Posted

I like how you mounted everything under that plastic shroud. I also like where the relays are. ..but I was just a little too concerned about having all that stuff too close to the radiator .. crazy amount of heat coming from that area. so I put the relays a little lower... but they aren't vertical.

Posted

For 2014 Silverado LTZ Z71

Lights from The Retrofit Source

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/

 

Here are my install pics using the MOPAR Low Beam Harness with built in Capacitor and 5000k H11 Bulbs from TRS.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/morimoto-mopar-xenon-relay-wire-harness-48653.html

Had flicker issues right away but then discovered the capacitor was wired in to the wrong side so just re-pinned it and it was all good to go. Re-pinned the OEM plug connection so it can remain inside the protective cup as well. Received some good assistance from TRS rep Carlos in trying to figure out what that flicker issue was. Big thumbs up to TRS for a great kit and great customer service.

 

TIP: Use a 7/8" Auger bit or hole saw. The grommet is tight to get in but fits perfect. Contrary to what people have said about using a 1" bit. The 7/8" removes the need to add butyl to it. This is my 5th HID install with no issues in this method.

 

Passenger Side: Mounted and protected by the plastic front core support cover. There is an existing hole I used to bolt the relays down to. Vertical as recommended by TRS.

attachicon.gif1.jpg

 

Driver side. Again mounted in a heavily protected area from the elements.

attachicon.gif2.jpg

 

7/8" auger bit and grommet fits snug and perfectly clean.

attachicon.gif3.jpg

 

Nothing to see here that HID is present from the front. You can only see the couple wires coming out the cup from behind the light but not seen from the front.

attachicon.gif4.jpg

 

Don't have a night shot yet but I will add one as soon as I can. They are a great clean white on the road.

attachicon.gif5.jpg

 

Any questions on Silverado LTZ and above installs hit me

Pic 1, you left the cross brace off.

Posted

Pic 1, you left the cross brace off.

 

And what do you see in PIC 4 after install is complete?

 

That was off in Pic 1 during install because you have to remove it to take the airbox out to get access to the low beam.Grounds were attached for testing and then the brace was re-attached with the grounds under it.

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