HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[FastWS6TA]

Hi guys,

 

I am in the middle of this retrofit. I have the RX 340 projectors mounted, wires ran, but the headlights will not come on. The LED strips and turn signals are working.

 

I have the relay hooked directly to the battery terminals (+ and -). The capacitor link is grounded (I sanded the spot). I have the OEM input from the passenger headlight plugged into the relay. I even reversed this connection to test for polarity. I do not have the plug from the drivers side headlight hooked to anything.

 

I've watched the videos from FastHeadlights and Fondupot. The only difference I can find is that I am not using a straight d2s to amp adaptor and do not have the same ignitors. I think my ignitors are built into my bulb plug.

 

I only have one cord going from the bulb to the ballast.

 

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Take the plug end off the relay where it plugs into the oem input. Shove the pins into the oem plug.

 

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[94boosted]

I recently purchased and installed the Sierra Spec: Morimoto Elite HID System from the retrofit source, the quality of the kit is very impressive and the lights work great. However after the installation was completed I have two issues/questions and I'm looking for some suggestions on what to do:

 

1) This cable was un-used in the installation? Is this simply an extension harness to be used if needed? Or does it actually serve a purpose?

 

2) I had a Check Engine Light come on. Is this something to do with the CANBUS System? I thought this kit contained the capacitor/code eliminator?

 

[Huetatos]

I recently purchased and installed the Sierra Spec: Morimoto Elite HID System from the retrofit source, the quality of the kit is very impressive and the lights work great. However after the installation was completed I have two issues/questions and I'm looking for some suggestions on what to do:

 

1) This cable was un-used in the installation? Is this simply an extension harness to be used if needed? Or does it actually serve a purpose?

 

 

2) I had a Check Engine Light come on. Is this something to do with the CANBUS System? I thought this kit contained the capacitor/code eliminator?

 

They send a few extra cables with the kit as a spare from what I understand. Its for either testing or something where you can shove it right into the headlight output.

 

I can't answer your question about the capacitor as I used a CANBUS on my silverado. The capacitor for my understanding should eliminate error codes as it regulates the voltage from the whole pwm nonsense.

 

On another note I did my retrofit and boy am I happy. Although my driver side projector I screwed up the alignment so its rotated ever so slightly from straight. Can't do anything about it now as I jbwelded it in place and I don't have the willpower to open it up again.

Edited January 18, 2016 by snowbrdd

[94boosted]

They send a few extra cables with the kit as a spare from what I understand. Its for either testing or something where you can shove it right into the headlight output.

 

I can't answer your question about the capacitor as I used a CANBUS on my silverado. The capacitor for my understanding should eliminate error codes as it regulates the voltage from the whole pwm nonsense.

 

On another note I did my retrofit and boy am I happy.

Attach0.jpg

 

That's what I figured regarding the cable but wasn't sure.

 

What is the difference between the capacitor and CANBUS Code Eliminator.

[Huetatos]

 

That's what I figured regarding the cable but wasn't sure.

 

What is the difference between the capacitor and CANBUS Code Eliminator.

Well in theory the canbus has a built in resistor to mimic a halogen bulb. I'm pulling power from the battery so this just trick the computer into thinking everything's fine. While the capacitor link to my understanding just regulates the pulsing voltage. (PWM) This just regulates the flickering from the ballasts by taking that pulsing voltage, storing it, and releasing it slowly. They said the can-bus is used instead of a relay but I have one canbus going into the relay to trigger things on and off and a canbus plugged into the other side to just cancel headlight out messages.

[94boosted]

Well in theory the canbus has a built in resistor to mimic a halogen bulb. I'm pulling power from the battery so this just trick the computer into thinking everything's fine. While the capacitor link to my understanding just regulates the pulsing voltage. (PWM) This just regulates the flickering from the ballasts by taking that pulsing voltage, storing it, and releasing it slowly. They said the can-bus is used instead of a relay but I have one canbus going into the relay to trigger things on and off and a canbus plugged into the other side to just cancel headlight out messages.

 

See from the very first post in this thread I thought the Capacitor / Error Code Eliminator / Can-Bus was the same thing. My kit looked like this.

 

[Huetatos]

 

See from the very first post in this thread I thought the Capacitor / Error Code Eliminator / Can-Bus was the same thing. My kit looked like this.

 

Ah, well honestly, I didn't use this thread. I did my own research as I was replacing my projectors for my aftermarkets. Try contacting retrofitsource. They are a helpful bunch and may give you recommendations that don't require spending more cash.

[ClemsonFan]

Thanks for the help guys. I reread abominable z71's post and realized I may not need the capacitor link. I removed it and they came on.

 

Overall the install was a little harder than I was expecting. The trim piece under the grill was a pain to get off. I ended up breaking the first clips on each side of the piece. I should have used a hot knife like in the video, but used a Dremel instead. It was a mess and did not end up with a very clean cut. My second mistake was not ordering straight D2S plugs. I had the 90 degree plugs and they did not allow the piece I had just cut off to mount flush. I would definitely recommend to purchase the straight D2S plugs. I also had trouble with the brackets. I had to trim the upper two mounting locations and had to cut two metal tabs off of each projector to get them to mount flush.

 

I would probably recommend that somebody try to start with installing a HID kit with the stock projectors. If that isn't enough I would then move on to a retrofit.

[Huetatos]

Thanks for the help guys. I reread abominable z71's post and realized I may not need the capacitor link. I removed it and they came on.

 

Overall the install was a little harder than I was expecting. The trim piece under the grill was a pain to get off. I ended up breaking the first clips on each side of the piece. I should have used a hot knife like in the video, but used a Dremel instead. It was a mess and did not end up with a very clean cut. My second mistake was not ordering straight D2S plugs. I had the 90 degree plugs and they did not allow the piece I had just cut off to mount flush. I would definitely recommend to purchase the straight D2S plugs. I also had trouble with the brackets. I had to trim the upper two mounting locations and had to cut two metal tabs off of each projector to get them to mount flush.

 

I would probably recommend that somebody try to start with installing a HID kit with the stock projectors. If that isn't enough I would then move on to a retrofit.

On that trim piece did you start from the left or the right of the truck? (left being passenger side) I've found the passenger side is a ton easier to get started then it comes off super easy.

[FastWS6TA]

I recently purchased and installed the Sierra Spec: Morimoto Elite HID System from the retrofit source, the quality of the kit is very impressive and the lights work great. However after the installation was completed I have two issues/questions and I'm looking for some suggestions on what to do:

 

1) This cable was un-used in the installation? Is this simply an extension harness to be used if needed? Or does it actually serve a purpose?

 

2) I had a Check Engine Light come on. Is this something to do with the CANBUS System? I thought this kit contained the capacitor/code eliminator?

 

When you removed the air box did you unplug the airflow sensor? If so, did you start the truck or turn on the accessory power before you plugged that sensor back in? If you did then the error code will need to be cleared. Dealer can do it.

 

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[94boosted]

When you removed the air box did you unplug the airflow sensor? If so, did you start the truck or turn on the accessory power before you plugged that sensor back in? If you did then the error code will need to be cleared. Dealer can do it.

 

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Holy crap I can't believe I didn't think of that. FastWS6TA you're a genius, I totally had the airflow sensor unplugged and then turned the accessory power on to check to make sure all the lights work. I've cleared the code with my scan tool and it's not coming back. THANK YOU

[Kerrslight]

So quick question here. I was driving home last night and all of a sudden one of my headlights goes out. Cycle auto off and turned back on. Both bulbs fire and then start strobing and turn off. Once I pulled in my driveway, with the garage door infront of me I could see it much better. Did this several times and pretty much got the same result. Another thing I noticed is each time a different side would cut out first. Once I got them both fired up and remained on, my passenger side bulb was noticeably dimmer than the driver side. Any idea what is going on here? Planning on tearing into it tonight.

 

Kit is DDM 55W kit

[FastWS6TA]

 

Holy crap I can't believe I didn't think of that. FastWS6TA you're a genius, I totally had the airflow sensor unplugged and then turned the accessory power on to check to make sure all the lights work. I've cleared the code with my scan tool and it's not coming back. THANK YOU

Ha. You're welcome. I only know because I did the same thing. Lol. Glad you got it fixed.

 

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[FastWS6TA]

So quick question here. I was driving home last night and all of a sudden one of my headlights goes out. Cycle auto off and turned back on. Both bulbs fire and then start strobing and turn off. Once I pulled in my driveway, with the garage door infront of me I could see it much better. Did this several times and pretty much got the same result. Another thing I noticed is each time a different side would cut out first. Once I got them both fired up and remained on, my passenger side bulb was noticeably dimmer than the driver side. Any idea what is going on here? Planning on tearing into it tonight.

 

Kit is DDM 55W kit

You have a relay harness with that kit? Capacitor as well?

 

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[Kerrslight]

You have a relay harness with that kit? Capacitor as well?

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

I do have a relay and when I installed the kit, the DDM relay was junk so put on a better one from another kit I had. I did not end up having to use the capacitors. Installed them with the kit originally and they gave me problems, so I removed them. I've been running this kit without issue for almost 2 years now.