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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit


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Hey guys newbie here and first time posting. Im pretty sure its possible but has anyone did a retrofit on regular reflector housings and if so what additional parts on top of the ones for the stock projector upgrade would also be needed? Sorry Ive tried searching but no luck.

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Has anyone tried the Genssi LED conversion kit? Ebay has them for $99. Google returned zero results for reviews on these kits. Their video looks good but its not specific for a truck and only compared them to a cheap Ebay LED competitor. Looks to be plug and play. I am not real crazy about doing mods that require the cutting of the light housings as I believe that long term there will be issues with the durability of a glued, taped and putty sealed housing. My son just bought a 2014 Sierra and he is not happy with the lights.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161918634452?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Edited by okmechanic
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I'm currently in the process of the rx350 retrofit and I have a snag. How do get the shutter plug off?? It's like there isn't enough wire to actually unplug it. Kind of like the wire I is attached in the housing and there's not enough slack.

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I just decided to pick up a set of HID's from The Retrofit Source. 4500k bulbs, 35 watt ballasts, igniters, canbus, relay harness. Not gonna do a full retro right now, just gonna use the stock projectors.

Edited by fondupot
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Just got a new 2015 Sierra SLT Crew Cab All Terrain and am looking at upgrading the headlights. I assume since my build date was October '15 that the update for the factory system doesn't apply/isnt needed.

 

I've been back and forth between the Morimoto HIDs from TRS and the Xenon Depot LEDs. I've seen so many mixed reviews about the LEDs that I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on the HIDs.

 

I've tried to read through as many of the topics and posts as possible but still have a question that I haven't seen a clear answer on. For the Morimoto kit from TRS, do I need the HD Relay, the Can-bus, or both. Since mine is a Sierra and the DRLs are the LEDs, I'm thinking that I would just need the Can-bus as they specify on their website that the Can-bus is generally a substitution for the relay, however, they also say that they won't work with vehicles that have DRLs.

 

If someone could chime in with a straight answer that would be great!

Edited by Armyman22
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This is simply a massive thread, however I think I've got just about all I need to install the TRS Silverado kit.

 

Question: has any owner of a 2014/2015 Silverado (with projectors) had success installing this kit and having the dust caps fit back on nicely just using the included grommets? If so what's the secret?

 

I've seen so many posts complaining about it, other's seem to not have a problem (e.g. page 142). Would be good to know this to keep my frustration level down.

 

Thanks in advance.

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I almost guarantee that you connection pins are not making full contact in the oem input plug. Take the black plug right off the capacitor link and shove the pins down into the oem input plug. Bet that solves it. The plug on the capacitor is too deep for the stubby little 9012 oem plug to fit down into. If it works then just wrap the pins with electric tape to insulate and hold them in place.

 

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

Can someone elaborate on this please. I received my igniters today and have everything plugged up and nothing. Had a buddy move the headlight and they flickered and then nothing. Is it the OEM plug that's inside the passenger headlight that's the issue correct?

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Can someone elaborate on this please. I received my igniters today and have everything plugged up and nothing. Had a buddy move the headlight and they flickered and then nothing. Is it the OEM plug that's inside the passenger headlight that's the issue correct?

On your capacitor link, remove the female plug. That will expose the metal pins (positive and negative). Plug those pins directly into the oem plug (that once plugged into your headlight bulb). Insulate the metal pins so they don't arc across onto each other.

 

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

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On your capacitor link, remove the female plug. That will expose the metal pins (positive and negative). Plug those pins directly into the oem plug (that once plugged into your headlight bulb). Insulate the metal pins so they don't arc across onto each other.

 

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

Roger that. Looks like I'll have to cut this damn headlight open yet again (rx350 retro) :/

 

I'll post up shortly with results.

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You should be able to reach in and get access to everything through the back cap.....no?

 

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I have like zero slack for the factory plug on the passenger side for whatever reason. I was able to get it through the cap though. It was super tight, but I did get the pin in the plug and I went test the light and viola!! They work!! Heatshrinking the pins now on the plug and going reinstall. I'll post pictures when finished

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I have like zero slack for the factory plug on the passenger side for whatever reason. I was able to get it through the cap though. It was super tight, but I did get the pin in the plug and I went test the light and viola!! They work!! Heatshrinking the pins now on the plug and going reinstall. I'll post pictures when finished

Perfect!

 

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

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So everything works great! Except for my driver side high beam... For some reason the shutter isn't working. The passenger side works perfect, but when I swap to high beams, the driver side does nothing. When I get my light bars in next week I'm going to look into it further and pull the cap off to see if maybe I somehow forgot to plug in the shutter wire or if it is in fact just not working. I've pulled the front of the truck apart way too much in the past four days to care to pull it again right now lol. I'll have to pull the grille for the light bar install anyways so I'll just do it then and knock out two birds with one stone. Hopefully it's just a brain fart on my part and I forgot to plug the connector in. Fingers crossed anyways ?

 

Anyways, the retro is so worth the money!! It's like a whole new vehicle haha. I still need to adjust them a tad more to fine tune them. I'm too tired to do so tonight, but here are a few teaser pictures. More to come when they are set right

 

F5EF3CEA-853D-40B9-85B1-E1A105EDC63C_zps

14D48E1D-E43D-42B4-9F64-54F3924620FF_zps

A00F2576-19A4-4F9A-A904-A215038ED10A_zps

 

 

Oh and for those who are looking to do HIDs and are wanting to know where people (or me for that matter) mounted their ballasts and relay, here are a couple pictures of the install locations. I know I had searched and didn't really come up with much when I was trying to find mounting locations.

 

I mounted my relay under the crossbar on the passenger side. The bolt that holds the brace bar to the fender wall is just a smidge larger that the hole in the relay bracket. I pulled the bolt out of the fender completely and carefully used it to thread a set of threads (literally like two threads lol) into the inside of the hole on the relay bracket.

NOTE: Don't run the bolt all the way in because it does gall the bolt threads. It will somewhat round off the threads on the tip of the bolt, but quite frankly you don't need those as once they thread through the brace they are exposed on the other side anyways.

Once the threads were made, I reinstalled the brace bar and as the bolt came through the other side of the bar, I held the relay bracket up to it firmly and threaded the bolt into both until it was tight on the brace bar.

I then used some HD zip ties and secured the relay (just for precaution) and wires to the bar itself. Excess battery connection wire for the relay was folded up, zip tied, and placed between the air box and the back of the headlight/radiator support.

Picture:

8BC62A57-FC8A-4D31-81C9-45A0740E7D80_zps

 

The ballasts were mounted underneath the top of the radiator support (or whatever you call it). You can see the zip ties holding it. I passed them through the holds on the ballast bracket and then around the brace and secured it. I used two per ballast and theyre not going anywhere anytime soon. Extra zip ties were used to secure the wires going to the driver side ballast. They were secured underneath the same radiator support bar across the front of the truck. The driver side ballast was also secured under this support bar on the driver side. Once the plastic cover is placed back on you can't tell I have HIDs other than the relay being visable. Everything else is hidden.

Here are a couple pictures of the ballasts mounted and wires tucked:

73984B85-43ED-4670-8D37-20A187DCD129_zps

B6E4FF2B-8583-4D05-968C-3CCDD27B5831_zps

Edited by Tim99GT
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So everything works great! Except for my driver side high beam... For some reason the shutter isn't working. The passenger side works perfect, but when I swap to high beams, the driver side does nothing. When I get my light bars in next week I'm going to look into it further and pull the cap off to see if maybe I somehow forgot to plug in the shutter wire or if it is in fact just not working. I've pulled the front of the truck apart way too much in the past four days to care to pull it again right now lol. I'll have to pull the grille for the light bar install anyways so I'll just do it then and knock out two birds with one stone. Hopefully it's just a brain fart on my part and I forgot to plug the connector in. Fingers crossed anyways [emoji19]

 

Anyways, the retro is so worth the money!! It's like a whole new vehicle haha. I still need to adjust them a tad more to fine tune them. I'm too tired to do so tonight, but here are a few teaser pictures. More to come when they are set right

 

F5EF3CEA-853D-40B9-85B1-E1A105EDC63C_zps

14D48E1D-E43D-42B4-9F64-54F3924620FF_zps

A00F2576-19A4-4F9A-A904-A215038ED10A_zps

 

 

Oh and for those who are looking to do HIDs and are wanting to know where people (or me for that matter) mounted their ballasts and relay, here are a couple pictures of the install locations. I know I had searched and didn't really come up with much when I was trying to find mounting locations.

 

I mounted my relay under the crossbar on the passenger side. The bolt that holds the brace bar to the fender wall is just a smidge larger that the hole in the relay bracket. I pulled the bolt out of the fender completely and carefully used it to thread a set of threads (literally like two threads lol) into the inside of the hole on the relay bracket.

NOTE: Don't run the bolt all the way in because it does gall the bolt threads. It will somewhat round off the threads on the tip of the bolt, but quite frankly you don't need those as once they thread through the brace they are exposed on the other side anyways.

Once the threads were made, I reinstalled the brace bar and as the bolt came through the other side of the bar, I held the relay bracket up to it firmly and threaded the bolt into both until it was tight on the brace bar.

I then used some HD zip ties and secured the relay (just for precaution) and wires to the bar itself. Excess battery connection wire for the relay was folded up, zip tied, and placed between the air box and the back of the headlight/radiator support.

Picture:

8BC62A57-FC8A-4D31-81C9-45A0740E7D80_zps

 

The ballasts were mounted underneath the top of the radiator support (or whatever you call it). You can see the zip ties holding it. I passed them through the holds on the ballast bracket and then around the brace and secured it. I used two per ballast and theyre not going anywhere anytime soon. Extra zip ties were used to secure the wires going to the driver side ballast. They were secured underneath the same radiator support bar across the front of the truck. The driver side ballast was also secured under this support bar on the driver side. Once the plastic cover is placed back on you can't tell I have HIDs other than the relay being visable. Everything else is hidden.

Here are a couple pictures of the ballasts mounted and wires tucked:

73984B85-43ED-4670-8D37-20A187DCD129_zps

B6E4FF2B-8583-4D05-968C-3CCDD27B5831_zps

Tim, I know I asked you before but what temperature and wattage did you go with? 5500k 35W?

 

Install looks great tho! Good job!

Edited by Kerrslight
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