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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit


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Can anyone tell me if my light output is normal? This is an FXR retro on a 2015 Silverado LTZ.attachicon.gifimage.jpeg[/quote

 

a few more clear shots would go a long way. Some on an all dark road, some against a building from different distances. However, with those projectors lighting should be even and very nice.

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Can anyone tell me if my light output is normal? This is an FXR retro on a 2015 Silverado LTZ.attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

You might want to check to make sure the bulbs are seating flush inside the projector. As far as level and aimed it looks good. The light has a perhaps a few distortions that are typical due to a slightly rotated or unflush bulb. More pics with the truck closer to the wall too :)
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I did another video over the weekend to show how to remove the headlights in thr Sierra. Pretty much the same on Silverado as well. Also shows how to wire up the hid components. I am hoping Spike TV sees this so I can get my own car show on Sunday morning. Lol. Lol. I hate being on camera. Lol.

 

 

 

 

Picture of the truck once we were done with it.

1d1dd1b6a24011323d27dfc2f2e8069c.jpg

Edited by FastWS6TA
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You might want to check to make sure the bulbs are seating flush inside the projector. As far as level and aimed it looks good. The light has a perhaps a few distortions that are typical due to a slightly rotated or unflush bulb. More pics with the truck closer to the wall too :)

I ended up running an AMP bulb in the FXR instead of a D2S bulb so that I wouldn't have to extend the caps. Would that contribute to the problem? I know the D2S bulb is kind of "keyed" to the opening of the FXR's and does not have the rubber seal around the base of the bulb like the AMP bulbs do.

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I ended up running an AMP bulb in the FXR instead of a D2S bulb so that I wouldn't have to extend the caps. Would that contribute to the problem? I know the D2S bulb is kind of "keyed" to the opening of the FXR's and does not have the rubber seal around the base of the bulb like the AMP bulbs do.

Absolutely the issue. Lol. Can't run the h1 bulbs in them as they are D2S. Get some D2s and you will be all set. Get the D2s to amp adapters though.

This is why we bundle everyrhing together so folks don't have to think about what is needed; )

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I've been doing some research but i cant quite figure this out.

 

I have a 2015 Silverado LT and it has projectors but I believe the lights are regular, not HID. The dealer said they are HID's but I don't believe them. Are HID's just plug N Play when installing or do i have to do any drilling in the back of my headlight? This may be a dumb question, so i apologize in advance if I overlooked the answer somewhere.

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I've been doing some research but i cant quite figure this out.

 

I have a 2015 Silverado LT and it has projectors but I believe the lights are regular, not HID. The dealer said they are HID's but I don't believe them. Are HID's just plug N Play when installing or do i have to do any drilling in the back of my headlight? This may be a dumb question, so i apologize in advance if I overlooked the answer somewhere.

Dealer is full of crap. Lol. Hids are simple to install on these trucks. Watch the last part of the video I posted and you can get an idea of wiring. Only hole you have to make in the light is a small hole in the back cap for wires to run out through.
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Can anyone tell me if my light output is normal? This is an FXR retro on a 2015 Silverado LTZ.attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

Sciemmer, just a few questions on the retro. Did u have to split the headlights to do the projector swap? How did the bolt pattern line up with the FXR projectors to the lens? Did u use the bracket from fastheadlights or was it easy enough to do without the bracket? Thanks in advance!

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So i installed the Morimoto HID kit (low beam) on my truck about a week ago. Today i noticed that the relay started making a loud buzzing noise when the light switch is in the automatic setting. It only buzzes when the lights are off...... it stops as soon as they switch on. it also stops when the light switch is turned from auto to off, or the parking light and constant low beam positions....

 

checked wiring, checked all connections, checked ground and all is good. Its the relay making the noise, not the ballast. (35W kit, with 5000K H11 bulbs)

 

Thoughts?

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So i installed the Morimoto HID kit (low beam) on my truck about a week ago. Today i noticed that the relay started making a loud buzzing noise when the light switch is in the automatic setting. It only buzzes when the lights are off...... it stops as soon as they switch on. it also stops when the light switch is turned from auto to off, or the parking light and constant low beam positions....

 

checked wiring, checked all connections, checked ground and all is good. Its the relay making the noise, not the ballast. (35W kit, with 5000K H11 bulbs)

 

Thoughts?

Do you have the optional capacitors wired in? I had the same issue with my opt7 kit until i installed the caps
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Sciemmer, just a few questions on the retro. Did u have to split the headlights to do the projector swap? How did the bolt pattern line up with the FXR projectors to the lens? Did u use the bracket from fastheadlights or was it easy enough to do without the bracket? Thanks in advance!

 

 

I did not open the lights if that's what you mean by split them. I was able to get the FXR's in through the factory opening. I also used the fastheadlights bracket. You need it for the two bottom bolts of the FXR's. It takes a little wiggling but they'll go in there. I'll make some suggestions below for other folks that may be installing these.

 

 

FXR fitment:

Getting the projectors in requires some effort but isn't impossible. What truly is a pain in the ass is getting the bolts to slide through the fastheadlights bracket and through the FXR. I ended up opening the holes a little with a slightly oversized drill bit on the bracket and also on the projector to make the bolts slide in to place easier. If you have a strong enough magnet you can wiggle the projector a bit and the magnet will make the bolts come up in to place. Since I didn't open the headlight, I used the 3 bolt method and didn't use the top bracket. If you're brave you could drill a small hole in the headlight housing above where the other top bolt goes and be able to get the other top mounting screw in.

 

Installation:

I ended up getting power from the fuse box and running the power wire along the hood latch release cable to the radiator support where the relays were mounted. I ground the capacitor link under the body support bar above the driver side headlight.

 

Here is where I mounted the relays and driver side ballast. Ballasts are mounted with 3M outdoor mounting tape:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzjivpH9PESXcGxtQWItbE8wMHM/view?usp=sharing

 

 

Ran the driver side connection over the radiator and mounted the ballast to the same spot as driver side. You can also see where I grounded the ballast, also grounded the driver side to the same bolt. (on driver side)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzjivpH9PESXZ2hHTE15UlY3X2c/view?usp=sharing

 

 

Now, the best part of this whole install is extending the headlight cap. It is awesome and I enjoyed it very much. :nonod:

Do yourself a favor and buy the extended caps unless you want to get crafty like my buddy did. We ended up cutting the entire back out of the cap, test fitting the thing over the D2S plug, realizing the side needed to come off as well and then building out the cap using 1/8 inch ABS plastic. Not pretty but it works for now. Glued everything together with CA glue and then sealed with liquid electrical tape:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzjivpH9PESXajd3enp5ckdHYVU/view?usp=sharing

 

 

We could have cut the caps in half and extended them with roofing tape like fastheadlights recommends but we decided to get creative. If you attempt this method make sure to follow the original cap profile as clearance gets close on the side of the cap when you put the headlights back in.

 

Now for the results. I originally bought the fastheadlights kit back in February and sat on it until now because of the cap issue. I saw another person us AMP bulbs and igniters and originally tried that as it was easier to mod the cap for that. Well the output sucks because the bulbs do not go all the way into the FXR's and do not sit flush. If you buy the fastheadlights kit just use everything that comes with it. Here are some pics of the output, pics do not really do them justice though.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzjivpH9PESXdU4teThKRDRRUFk/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzjivpH9PESXWGJleS1VbmNqUUE/view?usp=sharing

 

If anyone has questions let me know.

Edited by sclemmer
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