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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

MotoMedic
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ClemsonFan Enthusiast

ClemsonFan

Posted
Posted

On that trim piece did you start from the left or the right of the truck? (left being passenger side) I've found the passenger side is a ton easier to get started then it comes off super easy.

I started from the right side. Drivers side. Good tip for others attempting this.

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MotoMedic
MotoMedic

**The Sierra & Silverado HID topics have been merged and edited, in an attempt to create one comprehensive HID topic**   This topic will cover HID information, HID headlight bulb upgrades, HID f

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

-----HID FOG LIGHTS-----   Installing HID fog light bulbs in the 2014's has so far been a mixed bag. Some members have installed operated them for months without incident, while others have had thei

FastWS6TA
FastWS6TA

What is your name? I will look you up and reply. You wouldn't believe the amount of emails we get in a day. It is staggering and the best we can do is quickly sift through them looking for the easiest

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FastWS6TA Enthusiast

FastWS6TA

Posted
Posted

 

I do have a relay and when I installed the kit, the DDM relay was junk so put on a better one from another kit I had. I did not end up having to use the capacitors. Installed them with the kit originally and they gave me problems, so I removed them. I've been running this kit without issue for almost 2 years now.

I would start by checking on the relays. It could be that the harness has a bad relay (cube). May also be a fuse (if you have an in line fuse in the relay harness). Check connections too for corrosion

 

I do have a relay and when I installed the kit, the DDM relay was junk so put on a better one from another kit I had. I did not end up having to use the capacitors. Installed them with the kit originally and they gave me problems, so I removed them. I've been running this kit without issue for almost 2 years now.

I would start by checking on the relays. It could be that the harness has a bad relay (cube). May also be a fuse (if you have an

 

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blwright Enthusiast

blwright

Posted
Posted

 

I do have a relay and when I installed the kit, the DDM relay was junk so put on a better one from another kit I had. I did not end up having to use the capacitors. Installed them with the kit originally and they gave me problems, so I removed them. I've been running this kit without issue for almost 2 years now.

I've never gotten more than a year out of the 2 DDM kits I've installed. I quit buying them. Same issues you're having.

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

Well I'm about to buy the RX350 retrofit bundle kit so I should be good to go then [emoji106]

Huetatos Enthusiast

Huetatos

Posted
Posted

Just an FYI for anyone who made the same mistake as me. According to Retrofitsource, the capacitor link inside the canbus canceler is not as large as the standard cap link. So don't make the same mistake as me and get the Canbus. They think this is the cause of my buzzing ballast since my relay and ballasts have been checked.

A.J. Curtis Enthusiast

A.J. Curtis

Posted
Posted

I picked up a set of OEM LTZ projector head lights. So should I do an FXR conversion on these or do a Mini H1 conversion on my LT head lights?

Huetatos Enthusiast

Huetatos

Posted
Posted

I picked up a set of OEM LTZ projector head lights. So should I do an FXR conversion on these or do a Mini H1 conversion on my LT head lights?

If you look back about 2 pages or so you can see my retrofit with mini h1s. They're on some aftermarket headlights but thats if you like the beam pattern of the h1. Otherwise you should be able to do a fxr conversion. I think the FXR is a lot easier as you should be able to just pull the projector right out the back of the headlight without having to get them open.

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A.J. Curtis Enthusiast

A.J. Curtis

Posted
Posted

If you look back about 2 pages or so you can see my retrofit with mini h1s. They're on some aftermarket headlights but thats if you like the beam pattern of the h1. Otherwise you should be able to do a fxr conversion. I think the FXR is a lot easier as you should be able to just pull the projector right out the back of the headlight without having to get them open.

The H1 pattern looks really nice! How difficult was the install? So the FXR could possibly mount right into LTZ headlights? I have to open up the LTZ headlights anyways cuz the previous owner cleared the turn signals which I want to change back if possible and one of the headlights had a moisture problem. Is the mini H1 better than the FXR?

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Huetatos Enthusiast

Huetatos

Posted
Posted

The H1 pattern looks really nice! How difficult was the install? So the FXR could possibly mount right into LTZ headlights? I have to open up the LTZ headlights anyways cuz the previous owner cleared the turn signals which I want to change back if possible and one of the headlights had a moisture problem. Is the mini H1 better than the FXR?

For me, it was annoying. I cut open the headlights because I had no luck with the baking of it. Then I jbwelded the projectors in place. I didn't have a way to mount it via the threaded shaft to fix the rotational problem but they're supposed to be one of the easier retrofits. You should be able to do it via the shaft.

 

From my understanding the FXR might be a bit better than the mini h1. However supposedly they can be a bit more difficult to install. If you look at the first or second page on this thread someone supposedly was bale to just pull the projector right out the back of the headlight unit and slot the fxr in place. See if you have that ability.

 

I think at this point the differences between the two are preferential. The beam spread in the new mini h1 7.0s is supposed to be unbeatable I think. Look at some fxr retrofits and make that decision based off your want of the beam pattern.

 

P.S. I don't know if this would happen to you but when I was threading the nut back onto the battery post clamp, it sheared the bolt right off. My solution was to take a normal bolt and nut for power and thread that on. Then use a hose clamp to clamp the post together. Only if this happens to you.

  • Like 1
FastWS6TA Enthusiast

FastWS6TA

Posted
Posted

The H1 pattern looks really nice! How difficult was the install? So the FXR could possibly mount right into LTZ headlights? I have to open up the LTZ headlights anyways cuz the previous owner cleared the turn signals which I want to change back if possible and one of the headlights had a moisture problem. Is the mini H1 better than the FXR?

The fxr is much better than the h1. An fxr swap in a LTZ is much much easier than an h1 install in a LT.

 

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arcasey Enthusiast

arcasey

Posted
Posted

I know there were quite a few members having trouble with the fog light housings on the newer 2014+ GMC trucks getting burnt from HID's but has anyone had any trouble with the main headlight housings getting burnt?

 

Also, XenonHID.com has a 25W HID kit for the fog lights (I asked what the actual output on this kit was and was told that it is 25W). Has anyone tried or heard anything about this kit? Curious because I ordered the 55W headlight kit and the 25W fog light kit in 5000k for a 2015 Sierra Denali. Didn't know about the burnt housing issues until they were already ordered so I'm beginning to get a little concerned due to the expensive replacement cost of the headlight housings with LED DRL's in them.

 

Any info/advice is greatly appreciated.

Huetatos Enthusiast

Huetatos

Posted
Posted

I know there were quite a few members having trouble with the fog light housings on the newer 2014+ GMC trucks getting burnt from HID's but has anyone had any trouble with the main headlight housings getting burnt?

 

Also, XenonHID.com has a 25W HID kit for the fog lights (I asked what the actual output on this kit was and was told that it is 25W). Has anyone tried or heard anything about this kit? Curious because I ordered the 55W headlight kit and the 25W fog light kit in 5000k for a 2015 Sierra Denali. Didn't know about the burnt housing issues until they were already ordered so I'm beginning to get a little concerned due to the expensive replacement cost of the headlight housings with LED DRL's in them.

 

Any info/advice is greatly appreciated.

People have talked about 25w kits but you should be careful. A lot of them do pull 35w.

armyman22 Enthusiast

armyman22

Posted
Posted

Just got my 10% code from TRS and getting ready to order the 35w 5500k sierra spec kit for my SLT. I saw abominable z71's post explaining that the SLT's don't need the capacitor link since the LEDs function as the DRLs.

 

I've seen a few post of people with SLTs not using the capacitor without any issues. However, the guys from TRS said they haven't seen a sierra NOT need it. So wondering what's the verdict from all the SLT owners - is it needed or not? Also, how do the 5550ks match up to the factory LEDs as far as color?

davidncurtis Enthusiast

davidncurtis

Posted
Posted

Just got my 10% code from TRS and getting ready to order the 35w 5500k sierra spec kit for my SLT. I saw abominable z71's post explaining that the SLT's don't need the capacitor link since the LEDs function as the DRLs.

 

I've seen a few post of people with SLTs not using the capacitor without any issues. However, the guys from TRS said they haven't seen a sierra NOT need it. So wondering what's the verdict from all the SLT owners - is it needed or not? Also, how do the 5550ks match up to the factory LEDs as far as color?

How do you get the TRS 10% code. Im ready to pull the trigger just having a hard time justifying the price. Any savings would help.

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