Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I search this thread and maybe I missed the answer or maybe it wasn't brought up however I have stock halogen housings and while I'm not too keen on cutting up my set for a retrofit I looked into aftermarket. Anyone swapped with an O.E. style aftermarket housing?? I'm digging these smoked ones however wont bother if anyone has tried and had a bad experience http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-CHEVY-SILVERADO-14-16-PROJECTOR-CRYSTAL-SMOKED-HOUSING-AMBER-LENS-HEADLIGHTS-/391209105972?hash=item5b15e13a34:g:1uMAAOSw~gRVsvlO&vxp=mtr

Posted

Good morning all.

 

I've installed Morimoto 55 watt Hid's into my Sierra stock housings. All is good except during the day of the lights turn on (automatic) the left side does not turn on. If I turn them off and back on again manually it turns on. Never happens at night, only during the day.

 

I've checked all of the wiring and fittings, all is good there.

 

Any thoughts?

Posted

Man been a while since I've been to the forums. Having a problem with my HID's again.. Intermittently the passenger side will not come on immediately, I have to turn them off and on a couple times to get it to come on. It did it about a month ago and I swapped the ballast to see if the problem would follow and no luck. I moved some wires around and chocked it up to a pinched wire. Well now the problem is back. I'm displaced right now too with all the flooding in Texas so I don't have a lot of time to take it apart and look at it. Just seeing if anyone else had a similar experience..

Check the connection from the relay harness to the ballast input. Sometimes it gets corroded or the pins back out of the socket.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

Anyone go from factory standard lights like on my Silverado LT Z71 to Projection or put the mean looking 2015/16 headlamp assy in a 2014. Looks like they will fit with the factory hood. I can be reached directly at [email protected]

The LTZ projector headlights will work. 2016 headlamps probably not.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

Good morning all.

 

I've installed Morimoto 55 watt Hid's into my Sierra stock housings. All is good except during the day of the lights turn on (automatic) the left side does not turn on. If I turn them off and back on again manually it turns on. Never happens at night, only during the day.

 

I've checked all of the wiring and fittings, all is good there.

 

Any thoughts?

Did you connect your capacitor link? Check the ground connection on it too.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

Dumb question. I purchase a HID kit and currently waiting to install as I need a relay kit that was not sent with my kit. I am wondering why the difference in single and dual relay kits. Which one do I need for my vehicle? I see the morimoto kits are all dual relay but there are other kits that are single. Advantages/Disadvantages to the different ones. Thanks.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Decided to create a new section on our website to help save people some money. It's called the bargain center. In there (at the moment) we have some group buys setup for the FXR kits for 2014/15 Chevy and Sierra. Essentially it will yield you about a 20% savings or right around $65. All you need to do is make a group buy purchase (in full, not a deposit). Once 10 buyers have purchased the group buy will be complete and start over. If you purchase you need to be mindful that your discount is due to the group buy discount. Until the group buy is complete nothing ships. A group buy may take a few days to a month to complete. If you are in a hurry this is not for you unless you and some buddies can rally and all head over to the site and make your purchases. In the unlikely event that you have been waiting a month we will email you and give you the option to receive a refund.

We are hoping that this new offering will help save folks money. If you look at the stock status you can see how many more purchases need to be made till the group buy is complete. These numbers will be updated twice a day. Here is the link

http://www.fastheadlights.com/mobile/Category.aspx?id=1899

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Edited by FastWS6TA
  • Like 1
Posted

I have LT headlights and want the mh1 7.0's. How much cutting is necessary to mount them if any? Thanks.

Posted

I have LT headlights and want the mh1 7.0's. How much cutting is necessary to mount them if any? Thanks.

None really. Get a small shroud like a mini gatling. The bulb socket will need to be rounded out so the projector threaded end can fit through.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

Just wanted to say thank you to FastWS6TA for his recommendation on fog lamps. Got the lights fast and had great communication with him and his coworker.

  • Like 1
Posted

Swapped out my HIR bulbs for some HID's today. 55w 6000k. Nice and bright now. Please note I am on a hill thus why you cannot see the cut off lines on the light in the first picture.
Low beam
20160326_193619_zpsdwnt6b5m.jpg
High Beams
20160326_193624_zpshlp2io2a.jpg
Backed in my driveway with the lows and fogs on (pretty good cut off line)
20160326_192544_zpssfa8f6ym.jpg

Posted

Swapped out my HIR bulbs for some HID's today. 55w 6000k. Nice and bright now. Please note I am on a hill thus why you cannot see the cut off lines on the light in the first picture.Low beam20160326_193619_zpsdwnt6b5m.jpgHigh Beams20160326_193624_zpshlp2io2a.jpgBacked in my driveway with the lows and fogs on (pretty good cut off line)20160326_192544_zpssfa8f6ym.jpg

HIDs in the fogs too? If so, what brand and wattage kit?

Posted (edited)

No I am running cheaper leds in the fogs just for a similar color temp look. Did not want to go hid in the fogs due to the risk of melting the housing. Fogs only put out light right in front of the bumper not really much usable light output.

 

Here is a pic with the fogs off so you can compare the light output

20160326_192558_zpsucrt8muj.jpg

Edited by mjdxtreme
Posted

Mann this is so confusing.. I have the standard headlights in my Silverado and bought a set of Winjet projectors with the LED light tubes and really liked them but it wouldn't throw the light out far enough and that's with comparing LED to HID and actually the standard bulb threw the light out the farthest??? Night lighting is very important to me so I'm very interested in this thread but after reading the first 75 pages I just skipped to the end. Forgive me. So basically what I gotten out of this is you have to buy projector headlights then convert them? And is that aftermarket headlights or GM? I would really like to convert my standard headlights but looks like it not to many people have. Please educate me and where I need to go to buy the parts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...