Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For a brief period I ran stock 22x9 +31 wheels 285/50R22 tires which is bigger than a 33, with 1.5" wheels spacers on a 2.5" level and didn't rub.

 

It's not exactly what you wanted but close

Probably better than anything else I'll get, I don't know many people that run spacers and only found stuff on the NNBS. Thanks, I feel like it'll give a decent stance but still be practical with that setup.

Posted

Probably better than anything else I'll get, I don't know many people that run spacers and only found stuff on the NNBS. Thanks, I feel like it'll give a decent stance but still be practical with that setup.

I can't remember his name but there is a member running 4" lift oem 22s 285/45 stock Bridgestones with 2" wheel spacers on his Denali

Posted

Very nice truck sir ^ makes me wish I got black. I swear it's a love hate thing with that color haha..

 

Anyways, might be a longshot but any guys running 33's with 2" spacers on stockers? I know the 33's will clear on stock wheels with a leveling kit but not sure how much of a difference those spacers will make.

DEFINITELY a love/hate kind of thing..

sz7xja.jpg

Posted

Any photos out there with 295/70/18 tires mounted and leveled?

I don't think you'll swing it on a 1500 with 2.5" level, possibly a 3"...but it would be a trial. On stock offset people are rubbing with 275/70/18 on 2.5" kits

  • Like 1
Posted

On stock offset people are rubbing with 275/70/18 on 2.5" kits

They are??? I've seen guys running that size without any lift at all on stock rims...and no rubbing :dunno:

Posted (edited)

They are??? I've seen guys running that size without any lift at all on stock rims...and no rubbing :dunno:

 

Was going to say the same, that tire is almost the same width as stock tires. People aren't rubbing with 295/55/20 stock offset. 33x12.5x20 or 305/55/20 might be a different story.

Edited by 5RWill
  • Like 1
Posted

 

No I haven't really noticed any stiffer ride, maybe slightly but not too noticeable. It amazes me the height of the truck now just from 2.5", hoping in the truck, sitting in the truck. I love it

Hey buddy that is the same lift/tire setup I was looking at. I am thinking about adding the Zone 1-1/2" body lift too. Could you measure your ground to fender height for me.

 

Thanks

Chris

Posted

I'm away at work for 5 more days, I'll try and remember to measure and get back to you. I'm guessing you'll need the 2.5", although I left the upper strut spacers off, so I probably didn't get the full 2.5" level in the front. I highly recommend these tires and setup. I love the looks and the improved traction. I live in AK so I do a lot of winter driving obviously. I work in the oilfield at the north slope of AK and most of our F250's up here run these tires for good reason.

Hey buddy that is the same lift/tire setup I was looking at. I am thinking about adding the Zone 1-1/2" body lift too. Could you measure your ground to fender height for me.

 

Thanks

Chris

Posted

 

Was going to say the same, that tire is almost the same width as stock tires. People aren't rubbing with 295/55/20 stock offset. 33x12.5x20 or 305/55/20 might be a different story.

 

They are??? I've seen guys running that size without any lift at all on stock rims...and no rubbing :dunno:

 

 

Yeah sorry my bad, I may be mistaken here. I believe one person complained of rubbing the fender liner is all.

 

You can now throw the rocks at me :ughdance:

  • Like 1
Posted

No worries :) bud, was just letting the guy know he could probably fit 275/70/18 though i think he asked about 295/70/18, in which it would probably rub even with a 2.5" level though i doubt the offset would be the cause. Cousin has an 09 with an RC 2.5 running 295/70/18 or whatever the equal size is in a 17" rim. He rubs a little in the front and back of the wheel well which he had to trim some, but is using stock offset.

Posted

Well I finally dropped some coin on a set of new tires. I went with Cooper Discover ATP which is a P size and lighter weight that LT tires. I believe they are 52 lbs and rated 6 ply. I really like the ride so far, not as harsh as my Goodyear Eagles LS2's I had. Also taller and fill up the wheel wells better.

14 Crew with RC 2 1/2 level lift and Cooper Discoverers 275 60 R20's on stock OEM 20's x 8.5".

They state 33" in diameter but after mounting they dropped to 32.5" which is better than the Goodyear Eagles LS2's I had at 30 5/8".

Mild look but happy since I didn't need such aggressive tires such as the Nitto Terra Grapplers.

 

crew3.jpg

 

crew1.jpg

 

crew2.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

So i ordered a set of Bilsteins so i'm ditching my ranchos. But i figure hell, my brother can use the Ranchos on his 2012 Chevy Silverado SLE 4x4 could he not? Both are GMT900 suspension right? Granted the dampening rate wouldn't be set up for his truck i imagine they're better than the factory OEM twin tubes he has. Since he got his RC 2" leveling kit there was definitely a loss in ride quality. His truck became very stiff IMO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...