Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I went from my stock 265/65/r18 tires to duratrac 275/60/r20s with oe all terrain rims. My average mpg went from 19 to 13. Now I did not truck recalibrate my truck for these bigger tires. So I assume the average mpg on trucks computer is off a bit? On the highway yesterday truck would stay in v8 mode 90 % of the time. My question is whether this is about the same everyone else is seeing? I was expecting about a 2-3 mpg loss. But 6 seems like alot.

Posted

I went from my stock 265/65/r18 tires to duratrac 275/60/r20s with oe all terrain rims. My average mpg went from 19 to 13. Now I did not truck recalibrate my truck for these bigger tires. So I assume the average mpg on trucks computer is off a bit? On the highway yesterday truck would stay in v8 mode 90 % of the time. My question is whether this is about the same everyone else is seeing? I was expecting about a 2-3 mpg loss. But 6 seems like alot.

I have a p275/60r20 on 20x9 XD Addict wheels and I averaged 16.3 MPG's on my last tank of fuel (hand calculated so it is accurate). I have some cheapo Pathfinder S/AT tires that Kumho makes for Discount Tire that I purchased for my old truck because I knew I was going to trade it then I ended up keeping the wheels and tires for my 2014 Sierra. It is hard to find any specs on my tires but I believe they weigh around 45lbs (looks like the Duratracs weigh around 48lbs) and my wheels are around 31lbs each (not sure what the factory wheels weigh). I drive mostly city...I have a 10 mile stretch on my way to work that is a 4 lane, but it has occasional red lights I hit. I also towed two ATV's on my trailer for about 15 miles on that tank of gas.

Posted

Ok guys, any help is appreciated....I have a dilemma between going 295/70/18(unknown fitment) vs 275/70/18(known to fit easily).

 

My setup is 2014 Sierra A/T Double Cab with RCX 2.5" kit.

 

My question is geared towards the 295/70/18... how bad will I rub on 18x9 +12 ? What 18x9 wheel offset would work?

I see some guys doing 295/60/20, on the 2.5" kit, and that measures about .25" shorter than the 295/70/18.

 

I just don't wanna invest that kinda cash and not be satisfied with overall width and height of the tire. 275/70/18 just doesn't seem like a large enough increase to justify. I don't really wanna go to a 20" wheel for overall ride quality and the look just isn't for me, I like meaty sidewalls. Any input is appreciated, I'm ready to pull the trigger.

I felt the exact same way. I'm going with 295/70/17's. Could have gone 33x12.50x18, but for some reason, the standard sizes cost way more per tire and I refuse to pay that price haha.
  • Like 1
Posted

I have a 2015 Sierra Denali and I just put the 2.5" RC level kit on the front. I didn't add the rear block because it sits almost perfectly level now. The problem I have is that it rides like a dump truck now. The front is really tight and bouncy. It has been aligned professionally and everything but the ride is definitely worse than I had anticipated. Anyone else have this problem? The truck does have the factory 22" wheels and the side wall of the tire is pretty low profile but this has me thinking of taking it off completely. Any suggestions because Rough Country said they had never heard of this before?!

Posted

I have a 2015 Sierra Denali and I just put the 2.5" RC level kit on the front. I didn't add the rear block because it sits almost perfectly level now. The problem I have is that it rides like a dump truck now. The front is really tight and bouncy. It has been aligned professionally and everything but the ride is definitely worse than I had anticipated. Anyone else have this problem? The truck does have the factory 22" wheels and the side wall of the tire is pretty low profile but this has me thinking of taking it off completely. Any suggestions because Rough Country said they had never heard of this before?!

 

 

I have a 2015 Sierra Denali and I just put the 2.5" RC level kit on the front. I didn't add the rear block because it sits almost perfectly level now. The problem I have is that it rides like a dump truck now. The front is really tight and bouncy. It has been aligned professionally and everything but the ride is definitely worse than I had anticipated. Anyone else have this problem? The truck does have the factory 22" wheels and the side wall of the tire is pretty low profile but this has me thinking of taking it off completely. Any suggestions because Rough Country said they had never heard of this before?!

My 2014 LT Crew 4X4 has the RC 2 1/2" level/lift kit with complete install and I will agree that the front end seems stiffer and that the back seems mushy. I was thinking of trying the Rancho shocks on the rear of my LT to see if that would change (stiffen) things in the rear. I know it would effect the ride quality...

I have also given some thought to pulling out the upper spacer to reduce it to a 2" level kit since it's .5" and only gives you .5" of lift. Keep us informed.

  • Like 1
Posted

This is the ready lift 2.25 in the front and 2 in block in the rear

 

Before

20141109_125707.jpg

 

After

20150112_144140.jpg

 

UPDATE With Tires

275/65r20 Cooper ST Maxx

20150114_155408.jpg

How's the ride?
Posted

I have 295/70x70 with a +18 offset i havent trimmed anything and thats with the 2.5 rc kit , i could have gone a bit bigger i think youll be fine with a 295/70x18

Nice truck, I like those wheels and still haven't confirmed kmc vs method yet. I like the setup but 295/70/17 and 295/70/18 differ by 1" in height. Do you have more than a 1/2" of clearance at all points around your tire ?

Posted

 

I have a 2015 Sierra Denali and I just put the 2.5" RC level kit on the front. I didn't add the rear block because it sits almost perfectly level now. The problem I have is that it rides like a dump truck now. The front is really tight and bouncy. It has been aligned professionally and everything but the ride is definitely worse than I had anticipated. Anyone else have this problem? The truck does have the factory 22" wheels and the side wall of the tire is pretty low profile but this has me thinking of taking it off completely. Any suggestions because Rough Country said they had never heard of this before?!

 

 

My 2014 LT Crew 4X4 has the RC 2 1/2" level/lift kit with complete install and I will agree that the front end seems stiffer and that the back seems mushy. I was thinking of trying the Rancho shocks on the rear of my LT to see if that would change (stiffen) things in the rear. I know it would effect the ride quality...

I have also given some thought to pulling out the upper spacer to reduce it to a 2" level kit since it's .5" and only gives you .5" of lift. Keep us informed.

 

 

 

I have a 2015 Sierra Denali and I just put the 2.5" RC level kit on the front. I didn't add the rear block because it sits almost perfectly level now. The problem I have is that it rides like a dump truck now. The front is really tight and bouncy. It has been aligned professionally and everything but the ride is definitely worse than I had anticipated. Anyone else have this problem? The truck does have the factory 22" wheels and the side wall of the tire is pretty low profile but this has me thinking of taking it off completely. Any suggestions because Rough Country said they had never heard of this before?!

 

 

My 2014 LT Crew 4X4 has the RC 2 1/2" level/lift kit with complete install and I will agree that the front end seems stiffer and that the back seems mushy. I was thinking of trying the Rancho shocks on the rear of my LT to see if that would change (stiffen) things in the rear. I know it would effect the ride quality...

I have also given some thought to pulling out the upper spacer to reduce it to a 2" level kit since it's .5" and only gives you .5" of lift. Keep us informed.

 

Did you add the rear blocks as well? It doesn't appear is if you did. I am also thinking of taking the front .5" spacer to help with ride quality. If you do this soon, let me know how it changes things. Thanks

Posted

here is a the radylift leveling kit. think this one is 2.5in. anyway i drove it around and it seems to ride and drive nice. the only place i feel it is stiffer is on larger bumps. anyway, i think we are going to start making this a "package for the all-terrains that we get in. make them the way they should come from the factory. leveled and bfgoodrich m2's

IMG_20150128_080632_zpsdj27lyel.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

here is a the radylift leveling kit. think this one is 2.5in. anyway i drove it around and it seems to ride and drive nice. the only place i feel it is stiffer is on larger bumps. anyway, i think we are going to start making this a "package for the all-terrains that we get in. make them the way they should come from the factory. leveled and bfgoodrich m2's

IMG_20150128_080632_zpsdj27lyel.jpg

 

Those look like KO2s, here is the M2. Still great looking truck. I wish i would've gotten the all terrain just for the rims, then debadged it.

chrome_mo951_bfg_km2_35x12_5x17_002.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

is anyone running the 3 inch body lift, with a level and 35s?

 

Im thinking about this set up as my final specs. im running a 2 inch level on slightly larger then stock tires now. it just isn't high enough for me lol :)

if you do can you post pics please. thanks!

Posted

OK,

I really like the stock height of my truck.

Do not want to change it.

BUT, I would like to get more rubber between my rims and the road.

So, with just a leveling kit, no raising the rear, what kit would that be?

 

Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...