Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Ok, dealer may be inexperienced. I will try an alignment shop. I just didn't want to be taking it to 2-3 paying for it and in the end it cant be "perfectly" alighned.

 

No mods just the quick lifts. I do have the rancho rears and a block, but if you drive a speed bump on the front end that's big wow do you ever move on the front. you bounce. so to me it seems like the springs are to stiff. Ive tried all settings and they react the same.

 

 

just a bit disappointing, I don't quite remember these days what the stock ride was like but vaguely remember it being very smooth and comfortable. I avoid speed bumps because you bounce so bad!

I put the 2.5" Rancho ReadyLift on my F150. It was a horrible ride just like you are talking about. I put the 2.5 Level on my '14 Sierra and it's much better than my Ford with the ReadyLift. I would just suck it up and get rid of that lift and go to a leveling kit. Lift is too short to ride in a truck like that.

 

First of all, yes, your dealer can align it; they are choosing not to. Having a crooked steering wheel would drive me nuts.

 

Wheel alignment is a crap shoot. I went to one of our better known 4x4 places after I put my level on and they brought it into "green" specs. Only the Toe was out. But it was wearing the LF tire bad, so I took it back and they said it was a degree off. Still noticed wear on LF, so at 15K service at dealer today, I had FE alignment done. Their print out said the LF was fine but the RF was off. ?? That makes no sense to me as the RF was not wearing. I had an X rotation done, so I'll monitor treadwear and see what happens. At this rate, there is no way I'm get 65K out of my Nittos.

Edited by bcbz71
Posted (edited)

gallery_152889_3_2073422.jpg

 

 

39 3/4" front

40 3/4" rear

 

Details below. Will soon add 1" BORA spacers all around.

Edited by azmtbbrian
  • Like 1
Posted

if you get the leveling kit that goes on the bottom of the front struts and you only take off the bolts for the lower part of the shock and install the spacers, do you really need to get it aligned again? You are not messign with any other parts of the front suspension that would require to get it realigned....

Posted

 

 

Really nice setup! just curious what wheels those are and where you got them?

they are factory wheels that seem to have been powder coated black

Posted

what can i do to get a bit more lift...... it has a 2" level and I am running 305/55/20s I just feel like it needs more lift.

 

Can i run a 4" lift and have it not look like it has really small tires??

 

20150628_211611.jpg

Has anyone seen this exact Chevy leveled but without the split chrome horizontal grill? There is a solid horizontal grill that looks sick, just saw it, wanting to see what it looks like leveled.

Posted

if you get the leveling kit that goes on the bottom of the front struts and you only take off the bolts for the lower part of the shock and install the spacers, do you really need to get it aligned again? You are not messign with any other parts of the front suspension that would require to get it realigned....

Yes, it changes quite a bit actually. Any time you do suspension mods, even just strut replacement an alignment is recommended.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Saw this GMC, looks nice ff9ed6368e80702c6e0750e3a02ca779.jpg

 

And this is the solid chevy grill I am talking about ae0c4354422e358005fa1035b68f019c.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

if you get the leveling kit that goes on the bottom of the front struts and you only take off the bolts for the lower part of the shock and install the spacers, do you really need to get it aligned again? You are not messign with any other parts of the front suspension that would require to get it realigned....

I have this Rough Country kit and did need an alignment after it was installed. Truck only had 3,000 miles on it at the time.

Posted

I recently added a 1" level and 275/60/20 Cooper AT3 tires. it raised the front end just over 2". I still wanted a little rack in the truck. Overall I am pleased. I would post pics but cant figure out how.

Posted

I recently added a 1" level and 275/60/20 Cooper AT3 tires. it raised the front end just over 2". I still wanted a little rack in the truck. Overall I am pleased. I would post pics but cant figure out how.

I take pictures with my phone, email them to myself, save the image from my email onto my computer.

From there you can click "More Reply Options" on this site. It will take you to a page that has an "Attach Files" and then "Choose Files" and browse for the picture on your computer.

 

Some others just copy and paste a link where they already uploaded the pictures to a 3rd party website.

Posted

I take pictures with my phone, email them to myself, save the image from my email onto my computer.

From there you can click "More Reply Options" on this site. It will take you to a page that has an "Attach Files" and then "Choose Files" and browse for the picture on your computer.

 

Some others just copy and paste a link where they already uploaded the pictures to a 3rd party website.

Thanks. I will give that a try

Posted

I had an issue with 4 Wheel Parts. I ordered TA KO2 on 12/30, got told I'd see them end of next month, today.

 

I called Discount Tire who had 4 in stock, they matched my price and I picked them up tonight. I hope to install level soon and the tires.

 

LT275/70R18

 

2ba403bdf2a34597dc6ffe95d6be93c8.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 451 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...