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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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Hwkscr01 Enthusiast

Hwkscr01

Posted
Posted

Motofab called for bolts to go in top down with nuts below. I had to take the steering link off so I could rotate the hub to clear the bolt hole under the CV shaft. It was definitely a lot to do but so much better.

 

My only concern is the upper ball joint nut. I can't torque it due to having to put Allen key in. I tightened it until it wouldn't anymore. I assume that is correct?

 

 

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I used a prybar and placed it through the spring on the frame to apply downward pressure on the bj so it would not spin. I tightened it till I couldn't anymore. When I took it in for alignment I told the tech to please check all the bolts for tightness.

 

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

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geswek Enthusiast

geswek

Posted
Posted

Yeah I told Chevy to do the same today too. They are putting the tires on and doing alignment.

 

 

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Travis Whitmore Enthusiast

Travis Whitmore

Posted
Posted (edited)

On my 15 Z 4x4 simply loosening the upper bj and loosening the upper strut three nuts was not enough. There was just not enough drop in the lower A arm to clear the CV axle. Note, I did add the .5" upper strut spacer first.

 

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That makes sense. I'm just running the 2" kit which is just the lower spacer. If I'd had the upper as well then it would've been tougher.

 

 

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Edited by TeeDub21
Jon A Senior Enthusiast

Jon A

Posted
Posted

Just for those who don't realize it.... When you need to loosen/disconnect the upper ball joint in order to get the coilover & spacer into place, that is a red flag that the setup will be droop limited by balljoint bind and/or the UCA droop limiter. Obviously that's less than ideal for either ride quality and the life of your balljoints. You want the droop to be limited by the shock.

 

Individual trucks will vary; with mine the limit was about 2" or a bit less of spacer lift before causing bind. I know, everybody does it and aftermarket UCA's are expensive...but for people who may not understand why some recommend UCA's for even ~2.5" of lift, this is why.

Hwkscr01 Enthusiast

Hwkscr01

Posted
Posted

Just for those who don't realize it.... When you need to loosen/disconnect the upper ball joint in order to get the coilover & spacer into place, that is a red flag that the setup will be droop limited by balljoint bind and/or the UCA droop limiter. Obviously that's less than ideal for either ride quality and the life of your balljoints. You want the droop to be limited by the shock.

 

Individual trucks will vary; with mine the limit was about 2" or a bit less of spacer lift before causing bind. I know, everybody does it and aftermarket UCA's are expensive...but for people who may not understand why some recommend UCA's for even ~2.5" of lift, this is why.

The issue was not with the amount of drop allowed by the control arms. The issue was with the degree of angle the CV axle shaft is at in relation to the 2" spacer on the bottom of the strut. Once the spacer is put in place, there is just not enough clearance between the CV axle shaft and the hole for the new longer bolt to slide in. Thus, the need to disconnect the upper bj to allow just a little more room for the lower shaft the clear.

 

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geswek Enthusiast

geswek

Posted
Posted

I picked the truck up today after getting the LT275/70R18's installed -- definitely love the look and feel of the truck now!

 

There is no rubbing at all that I can tell or feel.

 

post-151507-0-71579500-1453253549_thumb.jpg

post-151507-0-71579500-1453253549_thumb.jpg

post-151507-0-71579500-1453253549_thumb.jpg

post-151507-0-71579500-1453253549_thumb.jpg

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geswek Enthusiast

geswek

Posted
Posted

I have no idea if my headlights are bad. I drove last night and they seemed OK. I'll check again tonight.

 

Here are some more photos from today. I love how the truck feels. I'm fairly certain my MPG went to crap though hha.

 

ff9184ad9be4174031e64b5446c4a329.jpg

 

e4cdb85720a4ee2a70d5806176a2b8ca.jpg

 

 

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Hwkscr01 Enthusiast

Hwkscr01

Posted
Posted

They will need to be aimed down so you are not "that guy" blinding people in on coming traffic or blinding the car in front of you. It's easy. I marked the screw at the 12 o'clock position and completed one full clock wise turn, I am blinding less people now and the beam is on the road.

 

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geswek Enthusiast

geswek

Posted
Posted

They will need to be aimed down so you are not "that guy" blinding people in on coming traffic or blinding the car in front of you. It's easy. I marked the screw at the 12 o'clock position and completed one full clock wise turn, I am blinding less people now and the beam is on the road.

 

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Ok; so mark the 12-o'clock and then rotate it clockwise one whole turn? Clockwise lowers and counter-clockwise raises?

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geswek Enthusiast

geswek

Posted
Posted

Ok, so looks like I got a tiny bit rubbing at full lock on rear of the liner -- maybe need to zip tie it back some.

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

I have no idea if my headlights are bad. I drove last night and they seemed OK. I'll check again tonight.

 

Here are some more photos from today. I love how the truck feels. I'm fairly certain my MPG went to crap though hha.

 

ff9184ad9be4174031e64b5446c4a329.jpg

 

e4cdb85720a4ee2a70d5806176a2b8ca.jpg

 

 

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Set up looks great. Yeah if that is an E range tire you for sure did. Saw this article the other day, really put in to perspective what heavy tires can do to performance, ride and mpg. Can't complain on how they look or the function they provide off road (if you use it for that).

 

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/wheels-tires/1512-what-concessions-are-made-when-adding-big-tires/

 

Tyler

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geswek Enthusiast

geswek

Posted
Posted

They will need to be aimed down so you are not "that guy" blinding people in on coming traffic or blinding the car in front of you. It's easy. I marked the screw at the 12 o'clock position and completed one full clock wise turn, I am blinding less people now and the beam is on the road.

 

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Thanks!

 

Worked like a charm.

 

 

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Clocked92 Enthusiast

Clocked92

Posted
Posted

My Bilstein 5100's are getting installed tomorrow morning.

 

I went in and ordered tires yesterday afternoon. I went with 275/60R20 BFG KO2's. They are on order and 1-2 weeks wait for them to be in stock. They had a set of 275/65R20's sitting on the shelf that were so tempting to buy but I am not guaranteed that they'd fit with just the Bilsteins.

tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

I have no idea if my headlights are bad. I drove last night and they seemed OK. I'll check again tonight.

 

Here are some more photos from today. I love how the truck feels. I'm fairly certain my MPG went to crap though hha.

 

 

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Mine kind of went to crap too.. but the speedo is off by a fair amount, so I'm thinking a tune to fix that and get some more power/efficiency out of the engine would help quite a bit... I'm getting ready to install a magnaflow exhaust and intake

If that helps I'll let you know.

 

I have the same setup, 275/70/18 bfg ko2 on a leveled crew cab.

Mines an LT with a 5.3 though... idk if you got the 6.2 or not.

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