2014+ Leveling Kits

bubaloo1983 · January 15, 2016

bcbz71, on 15 Jan 2016 - 3:45 PM, said:
Take out the ReadyLift struts (and sell them) and put your original struts back in. Get a RC 2.5 level kit with rear blocks and install it. Maintains close to your factory ride with just a little loss in suspension travel. Get a FE alignment and you are ready to roll. Any shop that does your FE alignment can fix your steering wheel....it's part of an alignment package and I wouldn't leave or pay until the wheel is perfectly straight.

great thanks again for the help!

Travis Whitmore · January 16, 2016

If you want more travel, more adjustment in the alignment, and better angles for your ball joints, etc get aftermarket UCA's from Cognito or Camburg.

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BoomBoom19 · January 16, 2016

Posting this for @Greg24v

He is currently running a leveling kit with-44 offset and 305/50/20 tires

Here is all that needed to be trimmed to get the wheels to fit.

In these pictures you can see where he used a pair of snips to trim the plastic back a little. But then there's metal under it , he used a grinder and ground it down until it cleared. Then hit it with a touch of black spray paint. Can't really notice it unless you're leaning down there looking at it close.

This was before he put a little sand paper on black paint on it to smooth it down better.

Also, he poked a hole with a pocket knife about 2" up from the bottom on the fender well, through the fabric/carpet stuff and put 2 zip ties thru it and pulled it back a little to help. He just put the zip tie around a bolt where the body connects to the frame. I don't have a pic but if you look right under your truck you'll see a hole or that bolt you can put a zip tie around. He used 2 each side.

Also here is the tire info, so you can compare that to whatever tire your interested in. There are definitely some ATs and MTs that would fit that size.

Tire Specs
Brand: Nitto
Model: NT420S
Aspect Ratio: 50
Inflated Diameter: 32.05
Inflated Width: 12.44
Load Index: 120
Max Load Pressure: 3086@50
Revs Per Mile: 648
Section Width: 305
Service Description: 120H
Sidewall: Black
Size: 305/50R20
Speed Index: H
Tempature: A
Tire Rim Diameter: 20
Tire Type: All Season
Traction: A
Tread Depth: 13.6
Tread Wear: 460
Weight: 46.3

Message greg24v if you have any other questions.

WhiteBoyMagic · January 16, 2016

I've spent the last couple of nights up late browsing this thread and its been a wealth of information. Just got the RC 2.5 leveling kit installed on my 2015 and will likely swap the 2 inch rear block for the stock 1 inch for a more even stance. Next week should be Ultra wheels and new tires.. I'll wait to post pics until then.

Anyone else have a truck on RC2.5 and stock rear block?

K_W · January 17, 2016

Yes, I installed the 2.25 ready lift on the front and the rear is stock. It has a very slight rake (high in the front). You can only tell because you can see it on the step assist tubes along the sides. I am getting a snug top installed this weekend and am contemplating adding 1" to the rear to compensate.

Olgrey93 · January 17, 2016

Has anybody ran 2 inch spacers with 33x12.50 on stock wheels yet? I think it could be done just not sure

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zback · January 17, 2016

Anybody use the Fox coilovers for their lift? Any feedback? I know they are more expensive than the Bilsteins, but which is the better way to go, if the price does not matter?

Txjose · January 17, 2016

Has anybody ran 2 inch spacers with 33x12.50 on stock wheels yet? I think it could be done just not sure

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Dont think it's needed as just with a level mine has minor rubbing at full lock..... And my tires are about a 33.5x12.5

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geswek · January 18, 2016

Installing the Motofab 2" leveling blocks was a failure today -- couldn't get them in with the Z71 shocks.

I loosened the sway bar and removed the shocks bolts -- wouldn't budge enough.

I loosened the upper ball joint and tried again -- almost got it in.

Took the sway bar bolt out completely and loosened the top strut bolt closest to me -- nope

Finally took the upper ball joint nut off completely and still couldn't get it lined up.

I finally quit and put it back together--not sure if I will try to it again or let someone else deal with it now.

Hwkscr01 · January 18, 2016

Installing the Motofab 2" leveling blocks was a failure today -- couldn't get them in with the Z71 shocks.

I loosened the sway bar and removed the shocks bolts -- wouldn't budge enough.

I loosened the upper ball joint and tried again -- almost got it in.

Took the sway bar bolt out completely and loosened the top strut bolt closest to me -- nope

Finally took the upper ball joint nut off completely and still couldn't get it lined up.

I finally quit and put it back together--not sure if I will try to it again or let someone else deal with it now.

On the Z71 (4x4) you have to disconnect the upper ball joint completely from the upper A arm to allow enough room for the knuckle to drop in order to insert the new longer bolt for the spacer.

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geswek · January 18, 2016

I went back after reading the Motofab instructions and ignoring the videos online--I had to (as Hawk said above) completely disconnect my upper ball joint to get the room. I also had to use a jack to lift up the lower control arm and then use my body weight to push down on the upper to get it back in place. I also had to do the same for the sway bar bolt and also to put the wheels on.

If you have a regular old 2-1/4 ton floor jack--get blocks! Or be smart and get a 3-ton 20" reach jack (I should have done that). I couldn't get the wheels back on.

Now the upsetting news--buddy of mine got a pro comp 2.25" top strut level kit installed; his truck is 39" all the way around. I unfortunately did not get the same results--I am not sure why my truck leans more one way--maybe my garage isn't level. I'm going to try and find some level ground again to measure it.

Here are my measurements currently;

Before the level

Front driver 36-1/4

Front passenger 36-1/4

Rear driver 38-11/16

Rear passenger 38-11/16

After the level

Front driver 38-9/16

Front passenger 38-3/8

Rear driver 38-3/4

Rear passenger 38-3/4

Lastly, a photo to review. The truck goes into tomorrow for new tires and alignment.

On the Z71 (4x4) you have to disconnect the upper ball joint completely from the upper A arm to allow enough room for the knuckle to drop in order to insert the new longer bolt for the spacer.

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Thanks hawk! That is exactly what I needed to do.

Hwkscr01 · January 18, 2016

I went back after reading the Motofab instructions and ignoring the videos online--I had to (as Hawk said above) completely disconnect my upper ball joint to get the room. I also had to use a jack to lift up the lower control arm and then use my body weight to push down on the upper to get it back in place. I also had to do the same for the sway bar bolt and also to put the wheels on.

If you have a regular old 2-1/4 ton floor jack--get blocks! Or be smart and get a 3-ton 20" reach jack (I should have done that). I couldn't get the wheels back on.

Now the upsetting news--buddy of mine got a pro comp 2.25" top strut level kit installed; his truck is 39" all the way around. I unfortunately did not get the same results--I am not sure why my truck leans more one way--maybe my garage isn't level. I'm going to try and find some level ground again to measure it.

Here are my measurements currently;

Before the level

Front driver 36-1/4

Front passenger 36-1/4

Rear driver 38-11/16

Rear passenger 38-11/16

After the level

Front driver 38-9/16

Front passenger 38-3/8

Rear driver 38-3/4

Rear passenger 38-3/4

Lastly, a photo to review. The truck goes into tomorrow for new tires and alignment.

IMG_5259.JPG

Thanks hawk! That is exactly what I needed to do.

No problem. I did the 2" MotoFab on the bottom and also added the .5" above the strut. I did not do the rear at all.

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Travis Whitmore · January 19, 2016

You don't have to completely disconnect the upper ball joint, but you do have to loosen all of the top strut mount nuts, not just the one closest to you. For some reason the driver's side is hardest. My passenger side took 20 minutes and I didn't have to struggle nearly as much.

Hwkscr01 · January 19, 2016

You don't have to completely disconnect the upper ball joint, but you do have to loosen all of the top strut mount nuts, not just the one closest to you. For some reason the driver's side is hardest. My passenger side took 20 minutes and I didn't have to struggle nearly as much.

On my 15 Z 4x4 simply loosening the upper bj and loosening the upper strut three nuts was not enough. There was just not enough drop in the lower A arm to clear the CV axle. Note, I did add the .5" upper strut spacer first.

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geswek · January 19, 2016

Motofab called for bolts to go in top down with nuts below. I had to take the steering link off so I could rotate the hub to clear the bolt hole under the CV shaft. It was definitely a lot to do but so much better.

My only concern is the upper ball joint nut. I can't torque it due to having to put Allen key in. I tightened it until it wouldn't anymore. I assume that is correct?

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