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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

webhead Enthusiast

webhead

Posted
Posted (edited)

How do you torque wrench the bolt at 3:14 in this video? It's the nut on the upper control arm with the allen key head. I know you put allen key in and then twist the nut with adjustable wrench--but can you torque that without an allen key in or will it spin?

 

 

 

I'm pretty saavy but I've never touched upper control arms on Chevy.

 

Soon as my tires come in I am going to install my Motofab 2" level blocks myself since the place I called wanted $200 bucks to do it.

 

To the guys who have installed this at home already:

 

Has anyone actually tried it the way they do it in this video? Seems a lot easier but I know that this is a not the exact same set up as our trucks.

 

Rough country instructions say you have to remove the factory skid plate and disconnect all the connectors for the electric power steering. Is this the way you guys have done it? If so did it make sense why you are disconnecting these electrical connections? Thanks for your responses!

Edited by webhead
geswek Enthusiast

geswek

Posted
Posted

 

To the guys who have installed this at home already:

 

Has anyone actually tried it the way they do it in this video? Seems a lot easier but I know that this is a not the exact same set up as our trucks.

 

Rough country instructions say you have to remove the factory skid plate and disconnect all the connectors for the electric power steering. Is this the way you guys have done it? If so did it make sense why you are disconnecting these electrical connections? Thanks for your responses!

I tried doing it the way in the video and it wouldn't work for me (after wasting an hour). I finally said screw it and disconnected the steering link and the upper ball joint. Made it go way faster.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
webhead Enthusiast

webhead

Posted
Posted

I tried doing it the way in the video and it wouldn't work for me (after wasting an hour). I finally said screw it and disconnected the steering link and the upper ball joint. Made it go way faster.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So it was necessary to disconnect all three electrical connections for the power steering?

geswek Enthusiast

geswek

Posted
Posted

So it was necessary to disconnect all three electrical connections for the power steering?

No, I don't even know what electrical connectors you are talking about.

 

All I did was disconnect steering link, sway bar, and upper ball joint. That way I could lower the lower arm joint and turn the whole spindle to angle to clear the bolt under the CV joint. Of course I loosens the shock bolts too LOL.

 

It was way faster and less of headache. I just put everything back and tightened it down. I did have to use some body weight to push upper arm and ball joint down to put the nut on. The Z71 shocks are stiff as heck!

 

 

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  • Like 2
webhead Enthusiast

webhead

Posted
Posted

No, I don't even know what electrical connectors you are talking about.

 

All I did was disconnect steering link, sway bar, and upper ball joint. That way I could lower the lower arm joint and turn the whole spindle to angle to clear the bolt under the CV joint. Of course I loosens the shock bolts too LOL.

 

It was way faster and less of headache. I just put everything back and tightened it down. I did have to use some body weight to push upper arm and ball joint down to put the nut on. The Z71 shocks are stiff as heck!

 

 

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LOL alright, thanks man.

Ten4Lou Enthusiast

Ten4Lou

Posted
Posted

Thank you guys, I am thoroughly enjoying every minute.

 

So I went with a 2.5" level lift and for tires I went with Toyo Open Country M/T 275/65r20.

 

Truck looks Great!!!

 

If you don't mind me asking, how were the Magneride sensors addressed? Or did you just have them removed? Forgive me if you already covered this question but I couldn't seem to find it in your posts.

 

Thanks,

Lou

DanielAcosta Enthusiast

DanielAcosta

Posted
Posted

Here's some pics a few members asked for

1454626784_zpssmw9hhya.jpg

 

Here's a picture with the wheel being held at full lock. The tire is probably within an 1/8" of the liner but it isn't touching. I'm sure if I flexed the suspension some it would rub.

1454626656_zpsduk6gm3a.jpg

 

That's strange that the same size rubbed so bad on your truck. Where did it rub on metal at? I wouldn't recommend the 295/60r20 for somebody that just wants to throw on a big tire and not touch anything. A 295/55r20 would be better for that. I just wanted a little more meat.

ABCMan I think yours is the best looking lift/tire combo I've seen. You can see from my photos that your tires fill the wheel well much better than mine.

 

For the first 51,500 miles I ran Toyo 275/65R20 (34" tall), then switched to BFG AT/KO2 275/65R20. Since they are the same size, no surprise I had the same results in that I can turn full lock without rubbing, but just barely. Like you, I'm surprised by the poster saying he is rubbing with smaller tires. I think the issue is all level kits are not created equal. My wheel wells measure 40", which is 4" taller than stock in front. I'm guessing the ABCMan's is 1/2 to 1 inch taller, and the guy who said he rubs at full lock probably measures a little lower. So if you all have a moment, please measure your wheel well height and post it so we can all learn, thanks!

Abcman Enthusiast

Abcman

Posted
Posted

ABCMan I think yours is the best looking lift/tire combo I've seen. You can see from my photos that your tires fill the wheel well much better than mine.

 

For the first 51,500 miles I ran Toyo 275/65R20 (34" tall), then switched to BFG AT/KO2 275/65R20. Since they are the same size, no surprise I had the same results in that I can turn full lock without rubbing, but just barely. Like you, I'm surprised by the poster saying he is rubbing with smaller tires. I think the issue is all level kits are not created equal. My wheel wells measure 40", which is 4" taller than stock in front. I'm guessing the ABCMan's is 1/2 to 1 inch taller, and the guy who said he rubs at full lock probably measures a little lower. So if you all have a moment, please measure your wheel well height and post it so we can all learn, thanks!

Thanks. I'm very happy with the look I ended up with. My local dealer has been putting 295/55r20 Toyos on these trucks with the level I have and they just look to small on these trucks, of course that's just my opinion, but that's why I went with the 295/60r20. I wanted 35s to start with because I had read where people said they didn't rub, but I now see where that isn't the truth.

 

I'm around 40-1/2" in the front and 40-1/4" in the rear.

Jibroussard New Member

Jibroussard

Posted
Posted (edited)

Would be interesting to hear measurments from center of wheel to fender as opposed to ground to fender to help everyone get a comparison on actual suspension height not factoring in tire variations. Then we can compare tire sizes against that measurement. Thoughts?

 

Mine measures 24 1/4 front and 24 3/8 rear. From center of wheel to fender

Edited by Jibroussard
bdup Enthusiast

bdup

Posted
Posted

Pro comp 2.25

Bfg ko2 275/60/20

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Pro comp 2.25

Bfg ko2 275/60/20

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any rubbing? thx

zback Enthusiast

zback

Posted
Posted

What is the ride quality like on the bilsteins on the max setting? I'm trying to decide if I should go with them or look at another option. Also, do you think I could fit 275/65/20s on a 2016 AT with a bilstein lift at the max setting?

SilverGMC Enthusiast

SilverGMC

Posted
Posted

 

Pro comp 2.25

Bfg ko2 275/60/20

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Pro comp 2.25

Bfg ko2 275/60/20

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any rubbing? thx

No rubbing at all. Definitely could fit a bigger tire

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

Can someone direct me to a page on this forum (or elsewhere) that will clearly explain what a 1.5 inch level generated by a bottom of the shock spacer will do to my suspension? I want to raise up the front of my truck for appearance while maintaining a small rake. I want to know if I lose any suspension travel or negatively alter anything else. The Bilstein shocks make sense but the installed cost is too much for me to justify at this time. Thanks!

Clocked92 Enthusiast

Clocked92

Posted
Posted

Can someone direct me to a page on this forum (or elsewhere) that will clearly explain what a 1.5 inch level generated by a bottom of the shock spacer will do to my suspension? I want to raise up the front of my truck for appearance while maintaining a small rake. I want to know if I lose any suspension travel or negatively alter anything else. The Bilstein shocks make sense but the installed cost is too much for me to justify at this time. Thanks!

 

I had Bilstein 5100's installed for a very reasonable price. I ordered the shocks online and had them shipped free to my door in 3 days from Richmond, BC. The shocks were $150 each. Install and Alignment was another $300 so my all in cost to level my truck was $600 including alignment. I know a guy who had a Readylift 2.25" Level installed at the dealer near me for $1100. So Bilsteins aren't really more expensive to do.

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