Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

skully85 Enthusiast

skully85

Posted
Posted

What leveling kit should I go with? I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 4WD and should I consider replacing the rear blocks? Sorry for all the question, it's he first truck I've leveled.

 

Thanks

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Lgetz Senior Enthusiast

Lgetz

Posted
Posted

Skully plenty of choices of leveling kits from RC, Zone, Readylift, Motofab, SuspensionMaxx and Ebay. Your front end components will be less stressed if you keep level to 2.5 inches or lower. If you plan on towing or hauling than by all means replace the rear blocks with a inch or larger one otherwise rear of truck will sag. Now if you want a more controlled ride do Bilstein 5100's all around and these can raise your front between .75 to 1.8 inches. If money is no object King, Fox, Icon, Eibach, and Boss make coilover kits that will raise your truck between 2- 3 inches with a very good ride.

  • Like 1
skully85 Enthusiast

skully85

Posted
Posted

Skully plenty of choices of leveling kits from RC, Zone, Readylift, Motofab, SuspensionMaxx and Ebay. Your front end components will be less stressed if you keep level to 2.5 inches or lower. If you plan on towing or hauling than by all means replace the rear blocks with a inch or larger one otherwise rear of truck will sag. Now if you want a more controlled ride do Bilstein 5100's all around and these can raise your front between .75 to 1.8 inches. If money is no object King, Fox, Icon, Eibach, and Boss make coilover kits that will raise your truck between 2- 3 inches with a very good ride.

Thanks for the reply - I am definitely comfussed now on what to do now. Haha. How are the Bilstein shocks? I have Factory Rachos now, also how do I determine what size blocks to get for the rear?

Lgetz Senior Enthusiast

Lgetz

Posted
Posted (edited)

The Bilstein shocks are a great choice. Many on this forum including myself use them with no issues. Your best bet is to measure your truck on level ground from the bottom to center of wheel wells front and back. Different trucks have different heights from front to rear usually around 3 or so inches which is called rake. Some trucks exhibit more rake than others meaning they are 3.25 or more inches higher in rear. Usually a 1.75 to 2 inch level will make trucks appear even front to back. A larger level may give a "nose high" impression. Currently I have a 2.5 inch level kit with the Bilstein 5100's set at stock height. Nothing done to rear which is at stock height.

post-10446-0-22902600-1490902979_thumb.png

post-10446-0-59509000-1490903037_thumb.png

post-10446-0-22902600-1490902979_thumb.png

post-10446-0-59509000-1490903037_thumb.png

post-10446-0-22902600-1490902979_thumb.png

post-10446-0-59509000-1490903037_thumb.png

post-10446-0-22902600-1490902979_thumb.png

post-10446-0-59509000-1490903037_thumb.png

Edited by Lgetz
Rock1500 Senior Enthusiast

Rock1500

Posted
Posted

Skully plenty of choices of leveling kits from RC, Zone, Readylift, Motofab, SuspensionMaxx and Ebay. Your front end components will be less stressed if you keep level to 2.5 inches or lower. If you plan on towing or hauling than by all means replace the rear blocks with a inch or larger one otherwise rear of truck will sag. Now if you want a more controlled ride do Bilstein 5100's all around and these can raise your front between .75 to 1.8 inches. If money is no object King, Fox, Icon, Eibach, and Boss make coilover kits that will raise your truck between 2- 3 inches with a very good ride.

I'm torn between leveling my truck now or adding a 4inch BDS suspension. I figure something in-between would work. So if I got a coilovers from fox or king I would be able to raise it the 2 inches or so and level it without major issues? Would I need to replace anything else in the process?

 

I so wish I knew what I would like best and just get it done.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

sierra1856 New Member

sierra1856

Posted
Posted

The Bilstein shocks are a great choice. Many on this forum including myself use them with no issues. Your best bet is to measure your truck on level ground from the bottom to center of wheel wells front and back. Different trucks have different heights from front to rear usually around 3 or so inches which is called rake. Some trucks exhibit more rake than others meaning they are 3.25 or more inches higher in rear. Usually a 1.75 to 2 inch level will make trucks appear even front to back. A larger level may give a "nose high" impression. Currently I have a 2.5 inch level kit with the Bilstein 5100's set at stock height. Nothing done to rear which is at stock height.

 

Did you pull measurements before and after? Can you post them if you did?. How are you liking the ride of the 5100's with a 2.5 RC? I am wanting to do something very similar but only use the 2" below strut spacer and moving the bilsteins up one setting from stock.

dasimmon Enthusiast

dasimmon

Posted
Posted

The Bilstein shocks are a great choice. Many on this forum including myself use them with no issues. Your best bet is to measure your truck on level ground from the bottom to center of wheel wells front and back. Different trucks have different heights from front to rear usually around 3 or so inches which is called rake. Some trucks exhibit more rake than others meaning they are 3.25 or more inches higher in rear. Usually a 1.75 to 2 inch level will make trucks appear even front to back. A larger level may give a "nose high" impression. Currently I have a 2.5 inch level kit with the Bilstein 5100's set at stock height. Nothing done to rear which is at stock height.

looks great! exact stance id like mine to have

Lgetz Senior Enthusiast

Lgetz

Posted
Posted

Rock1500 the BDS is an excellent lift. Pricey but if you intend to do real offroading this is probably the way to go and backed by a great warranty plus allows you to fit 35's on stock 20's. The King and Fox coilovers would allow a 2.5 inch level. If you go higher it's recommended to buy upper control arms.

Sierra I had measured but it seems my notes got thrown out. The ride is firmer than stock but by no means rough. Another forum member has done what you described but can't remember their name.

Thanks dasimmon.??

  • Like 1
jr_GMC Enthusiast

jr_GMC

Posted
Posted

54b4902aa43840d06cdffc06f822730e.jpg I went with 2 inch bds lelveling kit lifetime warranty

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

I'm torn between leveling my truck now or adding a 4inch BDS suspension. I figure something in-between would work. So if I got a coilovers from fox or king I would be able to raise it the 2 inches or so and level it without major issues? Would I need to replace anything else in the process?

 

I so wish I knew what I would like best and just get it done.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Kings and Fox both make coil overs for 0-2 inches lift or 0-3 inches. You could get the 0-3 inch coilovers and new upper control arms and be set.

Would be slightly cheaper than BDS but not quite as tall.

Chevy181 Enthusiast

Chevy181

Posted
Posted

Progression of my 2016 Z71. Hopefully this helps some members decide on how far to go.

 

Stock

20161112_082051.jpg

 

2" RC Level with stock wheels/tires

20161113_075121.jpg

 

2" RC Level with Gear Alloy 20x9 and Toyo ATII 295/55/20 (Very smoky that day due to wildfires in our area).

20161118_110341.jpg

 

Cleaned up

20161120_161234.jpg

 

2" RC level with Zone 1.5" Body Lift. RC steps added for the wife. Having exhaust pipe raised next week.

Lift%20with%20steps.jpg

Did you have to make any changes to the body lift for it to work? I have a 17 and called Zone Friday with a response that the 14-15 body kit won't work on the 17. But, it's the same body style as yours.

 

Sent from my SM-G930R7 using Tapatalk

bndawgs Senior Enthusiast

bndawgs

Posted
Posted

Trying to pick from these 2. Which one would you all get? Will the 3" front put too much of a bind on the front components?

 

https://www.motofablifts.com/3-Front-2-Rear-Leveling-lift-kit-for-2007-2015-p/ch-3f-2r.htm

 

http://www.roughcountry.com/gm-leveling-lift-kit-1305-10.html

 

Sent from my SM-G930R7 using Tapatalk

most will suggest staying under 2.5" level

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Trying to pick from these 2. Which one would you all get? Will the 3" front put too much of a bind on the front components?

 

https://www.motofablifts.com/3-Front-2-Rear-Leveling-lift-kit-for-2007-2015-p/ch-3f-2r.htm

 

http://www.roughcountry.com/gm-leveling-lift-kit-1305-10.html

 

Sent from my SM-G930R7 using Tapatalk

I have a motofab 3 inch along with 3 inch rear blocks. Did the level at about 5k. In at 16500 now. Live in Mass and drove to FL last yr. Haven't had one problem, noise or creak. Are the angles perfect? Not compared to a true 6 in lift but, again I use 4x4 due to snow and have had 2 winter's now w the level. I was worried at first but a few ppl w the 3 inch level let me know what their usage was w it. I say go for the 3 then go bigger when you get the money or want. Once I get some cash saved I'll install a 6 inch

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      AFM Experience

      By KARNUT · Posted

      The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Experience

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Blade8971
      Upgrade to a 2026 AT4 with the 3.0L Duramax

      By Blade8971 · Posted

      Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...