Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Mine is a 2014 LT 4WD. Measurements are 38 5/16" rear, and 36" front. The 2.5" level will apparently set me nose high. Will it settle enough to be level or should I just get new rear blocks if I get the 2.5" front?

7f11e56897e9fec80ff54ab2d0a3ebe0.jpg

 

That's just the front

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

yep ready lift with 33s

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just ordered a set of 2" spacers from Summit Performance on ebay. Really good price so we'll see how they work. If it's not enough I'll order the 1/2" top spacer.

  • Like 1
Posted

I recently purchased a 2016 Sierra Denali. I want to level the front but the more I read I am less confident on what all I really need to do. I went to a local truck place today that sells truck parts and does installs and spoke to the guy there. He quoted me about 240$ to install a new set of torsion keys to gain the 2" i am looking at to level the front. My main question I guess is, is going the torsion key route any better or worse than say just adding the blocks under the suspension or any other way? Also, my Denali does use the magneride suspension so does anything need recalibrated afterwards or just an alignment and I'm good? I am just mainly concerned with dramatically affecting something that is going to have bad long term consequences. Especially with the magneride suspension, I just want to make sure that any sensors that need to be moved or recalibrated get taken care of correctly. Thanks for the insight.

Posted

I recently purchased a 2016 Sierra Denali. I want to level the front but the more I read I am less confident on what all I really need to do. I went to a local truck place today that sells truck parts and does installs and spoke to the guy there. He quoted me about 240$ to install a new set of torsion keys to gain the 2" i am looking at to level the front. My main question I guess is, is going the torsion key route any better or worse than say just adding the blocks under the suspension or any other way? Also, my Denali does use the magneride suspension so does anything need recalibrated afterwards or just an alignment and I'm good? I am just mainly concerned with dramatically affecting something that is going to have bad long term consequences. Especially with the magneride suspension, I just want to make sure that any sensors that need to be moved or recalibrated get taken care of correctly. Thanks for the insight.

 

Is your Denali a 1500? Because the torsion bar keys would only work on a 2500. The 1500s have used spacers since 2007.

Posted

I am getting the 2.5" suspensionmaxx installed on Friday, I know it has been covered a few times but I have held off on getting tires since I want to know the best (biggest) tire size to run without major trimming. Based off a few of the set ups on here I am planning to run 275/65r20 on the factory wheels (+27 offset) yet does anyone have any more insight on this? Would I be better off going a different route?

 

 

After receiving and reviewing the kit, I did not install the suspensionmaxx on my truck. The shims are flimsy cheap plastic, felt as if they would give just tightening the strut down. The kit has been sent back and I got a 2" Readylift kit in the truck now.

Posted

I recently purchased a 2016 Sierra Denali. I want to level the front but the more I read I am less confident on what all I really need to do. I went to a local truck place today that sells truck parts and does installs and spoke to the guy there. He quoted me about 240$ to install a new set of torsion keys to gain the 2" i am looking at to level the front. My main question I guess is, is going the torsion key route any better or worse than say just adding the blocks under the suspension or any other way? Also, my Denali does use the magneride suspension so does anything need recalibrated afterwards or just an alignment and I'm good? I am just mainly concerned with dramatically affecting something that is going to have bad long term consequences. Especially with the magneride suspension, I just want to make sure that any sensors that need to be moved or recalibrated get taken care of correctly. Thanks for the insight.

 

Torsion Keys will not work for your truck, you will need a lower front strut mount extension (some kits use upper as well). Some of the kits account for magneride and provide sensor relocation brackets, others you will need to have the system recalibrated. check out this thread for a better idea

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/168618-leveling-kit-for-2015-sierra-denali-magnetic-ride/page-3

Posted

0147ccfc8a063ae5cf9a0c13db7886d3.jpg

 

Rough country 2.5" with rear blocks- 285/55/20 Toyo RT's on OEM GMC SLT polished wheels

  • Like 3
Posted

0147ccfc8a063ae5cf9a0c13db7886d3.jpg

 

 

 

Rough country 2.5" with rear blocks- 285/55/20 Toyo RT's on OEM GMC SLT polished wheels

Looks good! Have any side pics

Posted (edited)

Looks good! Have any side pics

And are you running a 2" rear block? Truck looks extremely slick!

Edited by Spate47
  • Like 1
Posted

0f5734ee4138b041374c57c77924115c.jpg

Thanks! I need to get a side profile pic.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I actually forgot to take a before picture so the only one I have is terrible but here it is before and after!

46DDED63-40A8-480F-9294-B297D54C2AF7.jpg

0BE100A3-E1B9-42F7-892E-71D60D211C85.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,367 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...