Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

So I was excited about getting my 2.5" Rough Country leveling kit on my 2017 Chevy High Country 4x4. I put it in yesterday, the lower piece on the bottom of strut, removed the strut spring and put in the round preload spacer, and then put in the 2" blocks. No issues installing. Have my factory 20" 275/55/20 tires and ordered Open Country II Extreme 285/55/20 and will leave them on factory rims for now.

SO IT RIDES LIKE A TANK after install!!! Is this normal? Rough Country says you can keep factory shocks. It feels like there is very little give. I see on so many posts that their trucks ride so good, man I'm jealous. I tried to upload photos but it says files are to big.

 

Do y'all have any ideas why it's riding so rough?

Should I take out the preload spacer?

 

Did you like your own post?

 

You should have done your homework, 2.5 is not what your front end is going to love. Most importantly though is you installed a pre-load spacer, that is why it is riding rough. Pre-load does just that, compresses the spring. When a spring is compressed it becomes stiffer, same thing happens with those who install the Bilstein 5100 leveling shocks, they also pre-load the spring. If you want a stock ride, get a top or bottom mount spacer. You can change shocks in this instance and it may help some but it won't change the spring being compressed and stiffer.

 

The closer to stock height the better, everything above that increase the wear and tear on your front end. 1 inch is better for your front end than a 2 inch, a 2 inch is better than 2.5 which is better than 3 and so forth. Research, do homework and see what others are doing and what is happening.

 

BTW, the extreme tires you are going to install are E-rated judging by their site, those will ride stiffer than your stock P-rated tires by a descent amount. Most likely you have no use for E-rated tires if you are concerned about ride, stick with P-rated unless you are going to regularly off road (is that why you bought a 4x4?) or tow and haul heavy loads often; other wise your mpg will take a nice hit as will your ride. Homework...

 

Tyler

  • Like 1
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

mnm99 Enthusiast

mnm99

Posted
Posted

So I was excited about getting my 2.5" Rough Country leveling kit on my 2017 Chevy High Country 4x4. I put it in yesterday, the lower piece on the bottom of strut, removed the strut spring and put in the round preload spacer, and then put in the 2" blocks. No issues installing. Have my factory 20" 275/55/20 tires and ordered Open Country II Extreme 285/55/20 and will leave them on factory rims for now.

SO IT RIDES LIKE A TANK after install!!! Is this normal? Rough Country says you can keep factory shocks. It feels like there is very little give. I see on so many posts that their trucks ride so good, man I'm jealous. I tried to upload photos but it says files are to big.

 

Do y'all have any ideas why it's riding so rough?

Should I take out the preload spacer?

Can you post the kit your are talking about?

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted (edited)

Took some new photos today. No issues at all with this setup, except wanting to go higher without cutting my truck up..

 

RC 2” front level only

33x12.5x20 tires (305/55/20) says both sizes on tire

20x9 +0 wheels

 

c116dc74a62cd39b6bd01ae1b85ae0e7.jpg203159b7c290cb5b06d5d499e149ba6c.jpgdec9eb9db3c2872c2897f47b88ebe946.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Criscone
  • Like 3
cowboysfanmd Enthusiast

cowboysfanmd

Posted
Posted

I would assume the dealership did it as well... but i would pay attention to the tire wear. If the alignment is off the tires will be wearing more on one side than the other.

 

The alignment appears to be perfect, it's more that the feeling of the wheel is light Like the difference in having no power steering to having power steering. Take my wife's keep Grand Cherokee for example, it takes more strength to turn the wheel from right to left. the same was for the 17 loaner I had. If that makes sense.
OmniCamaro Enthusiast

OmniCamaro

Posted
Posted

The alignment appears to be perfect, it's more that the feeling of the wheel is light Like the difference in having no power steering to having power steering. Take my wife's keep Grand Cherokee for example, it takes more strength to turn the wheel from right to left. the same was for the 17 loaner I had. If that makes sense.

These trucks with the electric steering definitely take some getting used to. I think it feels too loose or touchy also. I wish we could tighten it up some.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

tjrinaldi New Member

tjrinaldi

Posted
Posted

i have just purchaced A new 2017 LTZ 4x4, while it was in the dealership for some warranty work.I had had a Readylift 2.25" front and a 2" blocks for the back added to the truck. I love the look of the truck and am going to upsize the tires as soon as I can decide which to buy.

 

My question is, have any others noticed a difference in the feel of the steering wheel, when turning compared to the way it felt prior to the level kit and blocks?

 

In my opinion the steering is "lighter" meaning there is less resistance when turning the wheel. It does not matter which way I steer the truck, it does doesnt seem to have the same resistance.

 

I spoke to the Dealer , Ready lift AND 4 wheel parts, all of them said there should be little to no difference at all. I just received a loaner truce which was also a 17 4x4 and I can definitely tell the difference in the steering.

 

Have any of you experienced the same feeling in the steering, or is it just me? I have not found any comments on ANY blogs that reference these symptoms so I am beginning to wonder.

 

Also, will changing the shocks with 2.0s or something comparable, make my ride feel closer to the factory ride. Right now it kind of feels a little sensitive to bumps or un eaten roads.

 

I will appreciate any feedback you have to offer, thank you.

here is my two cents to this post:

 

I am coming to you from the European sportscar road-racing world, and what I can tell you about suspension geometry in lifting/lowering the center of gravity (SUSPENSION/BODY) in relation to the wheel is that of caster.

 

Consider the exact spot where the tire hits the pavement. This is like a small square area as wide as the tire or so. More CAMBER narrows the tire-to-tire distance as measured from the inner wall. Less CAMBER, or NEGATIVE CAMBER, widens the distance from inner lower tire to inner lower tire. Road racers run negative camber in order to gain handling through corners.

 

Let's talk CASTER though. Caster involves the wheel position as it relates to the vehicle's center of gravity and ultimately the steering pivot points. As the pivot points of steering drift behind the wheel, the CASTER becomes more positive (like the steering angle of a bigwheel when we were kids). The steering effort would be greater in this sense. More negative CASTER would create greater moment arms, resulting in lesser effort to maneuver the wheels of the vehicle, lending to a "looser" type feel. Incidentally, less caster makes the tires want to follow all the grooves in the pavement. More caster gives us this "stable" feeling of the steering at higher speeds i.e., the tires want to go along the path you tell them to thus increasing the effort it takes to maneuver them off that path.

 

Is it possible that lifting the geometry just a little bit is enough to decrease caster? Maybe YES. I wonder if GM has the provision to adjust caster as part of the alignment of the front end... a lot of stock suspension setups do not allow for caster adjustment....

  • Like 1
tjrinaldi New Member

tjrinaldi

Posted
Posted

Mines in the shop now getting the 2.5" Motofab level and 285/70/17 (32.7x11.2) MC MXT's on the stock wheels. Everything I've read says it shouldn't rub but I'll know for sure shortly!!! I think there are a lot of variables so we shall see....

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

any chance you now have a pic of this setup? I want to do the same... without rub.

2017 silverado 8Jx17 STEEL wheels.... looking to do RC 2.5" level kit and 285/70 R17

tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

any chance you now have a pic of this setup? I want to do the same... without rub.

2017 silverado 8Jx17 STEEL wheels.... looking to do RC 2.5" level kit and 285/70 R17

You should be fine on a level. I ran 285s on a level with stock wheels for over a year and had no issues on or off road.

  • Like 1
Bomber55 Enthusiast

Bomber55

Posted
Posted

any chance you now have a pic of this setup? I want to do the same... without rub.

2017 silverado 8Jx17 STEEL wheels.... looking to do RC 2.5" level kit and 285/70 R17

3ffd67c5b0acf20f85c072cdd2113596.jpg

 

Been running it for a few weeks now, no rubbing and rides perfect. I’m very happy with this set up....better than I was expecting.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KyleGT Enthusiast

KyleGT

Posted
Posted

#1312

2.5" kit with 2" block

For stamped steel lower control arms

Weird. Mine is this one. Has a spacer that goes on top of the strut assembly rather than a preload spacer. 89aba2ecd6f8b8377f89a0ac8a9dbd39.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

Yes that’s the older style, for non-stamped control arms.

 

 

Weird. Mine is this one. Has a spacer that goes on top of the strut assembly rather than a preload spacer. 89aba2ecd6f8b8377f89a0ac8a9dbd39.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JV2522 New Member

JV2522

Posted
Posted

I have been searching through this post for a while, and cant find exactly what i am looking for. I have a 2015 All-Terrain that has a 2" level kit ( i don't know the brand, bc was put on before i bought it) on front and an 1.5" zone body lift. I am going to be needing tired in next couple of months. Currently have 275/65/20. Is this the largest can put on with no rub?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,317 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...