2014+ Leveling Kits

CHSRebleForLife · September 8, 2017

Is anyone here running the 33x12.50 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on stock 22s with a level?

nmyron · September 9, 2017

Man that's Crazy. I appreciate the head up in advance. They guy at my shop said I could probably pull off a 285/55/20 but wouldn't recommend I go to a 295/55/20. He said he just dealt with a similar situation on the same truck. Out of curiosity, what size tire where you trying to run? Did you try your stock 275/55/20 with the level kit and still have issues?

Did you consider the rough country kit that combines the 2" level with the 1.25" body kit? They claim this kits is made to run 33s on 20s. Anyone have experience with this kit? I'm strongly considering it.

Stock 20's on the stock Contis, rubbed the sidewall on the upper control arm. During the realignment after removing the lift the tech pointed out that I, too, was rubbing the inner rim edges against the UCA as well as JJT suggested his brother was experiencing. Edited September 9, 2017 by nmyron

NEOutDoors · September 9, 2017

Stock 20's on the stock Contis, rubbed the sidewall on the upper control arm. During the realignment after removing the lift the tech pointed out that I, too, was rubbing the inner rim edges against the UCA as well as JJT suggested his brother was experiencing.

Oh Man... So the lift alone (everything else stock) caused rubbing due to the alignment change. That sucks! Looks like I need a new truck.

So the only work around is to get new wheels... spacers wont solve it?

What about going with a legit lift like a 4.5" or something?

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Edited September 9, 2017 by NEOutDoors

NEOutDoors · September 9, 2017

I just performed the 2" Rough Country lower spacer level on my 2017 with stamped steel arms. I have done several levels on GMT900's and K2XX's, using the upper pucks. This one was a relative breeze. I did not remove the tie rod ends, or unplug the rack. I only loosened the upper nuts, removed the upper ball joint, and obviously the lower two bolts. Everything was buttoned up in about a hour and 20 mins.

level.jpg

... have you had any of the rubbing issues that have been mentioned? I wonder if the difference in the 2" kit vs the 2.5" is causing rub issues.

Edited September 9, 2017 by NEOutDoors

Csjumper2003 · September 9, 2017

Oh Man... So the lift alone (everything else stock) caused rubbing due to the alignment change. That sucks! Looks like I need a new truck.

So the only work around is to get new wheels... spacers wont solve it?

What about going with a legit lift like a 4.5" or something?

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If you need new rims because of offset then spacers should do the same and fix the issue cheaper.

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nmyron · September 9, 2017

Oh Man... So the lift alone (everything else stock) caused rubbing due to the alignment change. That sucks! Looks like I need a new truck.

So the only work around is to get new wheels... spacers wont solve it?

What about going with a legit lift like a 4.5" or something?

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It's possible spacers would solve it. I just don't really feel like adding a failure point between my hubs and wheels. That's just more work any time I need to get in there, as you'd have to torque the spacers, then torque the wheels... Then the added complexity of figuring out how to stop the hubs from spinning while torqueing down the spacers... Then driving it 500 miles, pulling the wheels to check the spacer torque, then re-torqueing the wheels... That's 2 hours of a weekend that are much better spent elsewhere. I bought a new truck to have something I don't need to fix every few months. If I wanted to keep working underneath a truck I would've kept my last ride :-) There are plate spacers that are available from Rough Country, and there is a place called WheelTech on eBay that sells solid Billet plates in 6x5.5 for GM trucks in 8mm as well. Both are options, but in the thread where these were mentioned, the OP never replied as to if any long term issues were experienced with them. So, without some solid "Hey I've had these for 2 years and they're great" kind of reviews, I'm very leery of installing them. The last thing I need is to be hauling a trailer or going on a trip with my fam and lose a wheel cause my studs sheared off. Also, there is the added complexity of the fact that there is not a shop around that will work with them. If you have spacers, and have to have your brakes done or some such, the shops around me won't re-install your spacers per their company policy. They have to remove them, and leave them inside the truck for you to re-install after delivery. Again, more headache than I'm interested in dealing with. If the spacers are the bolt down variety, it's very possible that I'd have to cut the studs down to fit them under the wheels, resulting in the shop saying they can't put my wheels back on because my studs are too short, as well, since they can't reinstall the spacers before installing the wheels.

I'm sure a good suspension lift with new UCA's would do it. Their 4.75" is a combo suspension/body... Body lifts aren't true lifts however, they offer no advantage in the real world except to lift the body off the frame, and require in this case adding brackets to relocate parts from the factory locations. I'd probably opt for the 5" suspension lift. But then again, it's $1300 :-) And I don't need 5" more ground clearance, or the reduced gas mileage inherent in blowing the current setup's aerodynamics by jacking it up that high off the ground and the added underbody positive air pressure. I'd be more likely to pick up some stock-alike wheels with a higher offset if I were to go back to it. But, honestly, now that it's out, I'm not interested. If anything, I'm a little upset at myself for wasting the money in the first place. It just seemed like a good idea at the time, and a cheaper alternative to new wheels and/or a full lift kit. But, as I already knew all too well, cheaper is not always better.

Some people are having great luck with this stuff, but I note that the majority of those folks also sprung for new, higher-offset wheels and larger tires. I was hoping to keep everything stock but the front ride height. But that doesn't seem in the cards for me. I bought the Sierra for the look, the mileage, and some other things like integrated trailer brake controller and such. I could've gotten a lifted one off the lot, as my dealership sells models that have lifts pre-installed. Next time I buy, I might consider that instead. That way it's already done for me, and I don't have to get into it on my own. You live, you learn I guess :-)

2017SierraSLT · September 9, 2017

... have you had any of the rubbing issues that have been mentioned? I wonder if the difference in the 2" kit vs the 2.5" is causing rub issues.

No rubbing whatsoever, but I am running the stock tires until they wear out.

DanZ71 · September 10, 2017

Man that's Crazy. I appreciate the head up in advance. They guy at my shop said I could probably pull off a 285/55/20 but wouldn't recommend I go to a 295/55/20. He said he just dealt with a similar situation on the same truck. Out of curiosity, what size tire where you trying to run? Did you try your stock 275/55/20 with the level kit and still have issues?

Did you consider the rough country kit that combines the 2" level with the 1.25" body kit? They claim this kits is made to run 33s on 20s. Anyone have experience with this kit? I'm strongly considering it.

Who makes a 1.25" body lift for 2017 silverado?

NEOutDoors · September 10, 2017

Who makes a 1.25" body lift for 2017 silverado?

Kits made by rough country

mrhonestlyinsane · September 10, 2017

Nmyron,

What you are talking about makes no sense. I ran the rough country kit 2inch with stock rims and tires with no issue. Nothing gets changed with steering geometry. Basically all you are changing is ride height by lengthening the strut.

So if you took the stock truck and jacked it up with a jack you have the same affect. All that should have changed is camber. If everything is stock except the level nothing should rub. I ran a 275/65r20 on my level and had no rubbing except the fender liner which gets tied back.

I know the 2017 trucks got different uca's but it shouldn't matter. If a level caused a rub I think it will rub without the level also.

KurtA · September 10, 2017

Finally installed a Motofab 2" leveling kit on my shortbed two-door. Truck still has 1-1/4" of forward bias.

GoBlue2014LT · September 10, 2017

Finished the level by swapping the rear blocks and getting alignment.

Stock

2.5" front level

Swapped rear blocks (1" lift)

Wheels and tires soon

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STINSAN3 · September 11, 2017

Finished the level by swapping the rear blocks and getting alignment.

Stock

2.5" front level

Swapped rear blocks (1" lift)

Wheels and tires soon

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Where did you het the block at? That looks perfect.

I got the 2.5 Motofab one too, haven't installed it.

GoBlue2014LT · September 11, 2017

Where did you het the block at? That looks perfect.

I got the 2.5 Motofab one too, haven't installed it.

Came as a kit on Amazon

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nmyron · September 11, 2017

Nmyron,

What you are talking about makes no sense. I ran the rough country kit 2inch with stock rims and tires with no issue. Nothing gets changed with steering geometry. Basically all you are changing is ride height by lengthening the strut.

So if you took the stock truck and jacked it up with a jack you have the same affect. All that should have changed is camber. If everything is stock except the level nothing should rub. I ran a 275/65r20 on my level and had no rubbing except the fender liner which gets tied back.

I know the 2017 trucks got different uca's but it shouldn't matter. If a level caused a rub I think it will rub without the level also.

I appreciate your opinion. But I am back to bone stock, and I have no wheel or tire contact at my UCA after removing the lift. The act of lengthening the strut does change the steering geometry. If it didn't, there would be no need for realignment to reset the camber. The act of shifting the lower control arm down with the spacers moves the spindle down, which in turn requires moving the UCA down. All this is a change from the stock steering geometry.

When you install these lifts, you have to use a prybar to pull the UCA down so the balljoint reinserts into the upper ball joint through hole in the spindle. This is not necessary without the lift, because the spindle returns to it's stock height. I am able to lift the spindle into place with a jack and pin it in place with out a prybar. Without the lift, geometry returns to normal.

As I said, I'm not guaranteeing anything. Simply sharing my experience. Maybe you have had little to no need to drive at steering lock, or maybe your camber kit setup on your truck was a bit different. I can't speak to that. What I can speak to are the polished spots on my UCA's and the back edges of my wheels where my tire and wheel made contact while pulling in/out my driveway. I live on a narrow street, with a double car drive, and have to take the truck to lock to make the turn onto my driveway skirt. This is where I found the rub. Others can also speak to this same experience per the posts I have linked.