Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Thanks. I was looking at doing rc 2.5 level and zone 1.5. Total of 4. Not sure if these tires will make it. Wanted to run my stock 18s, but if a different offset is required to get away with the 295 70 18s, I will either go that route or try a smaller size.

 

You should have no problem with making that tire size fit with even just the level. I'm running 275/70R18 on the stock Z71 wheels with no issue on just a 2.5" level. There's tons of room left for a slightly wider tire. With a body lift, you could go much bigger than that even.

Edited by surebuttercringe
Posted

 

You should have no problem with making that tire size fit with even just the level. I'm running 275/70R18 on the stock Z71 wheels with no issue on just a 2.5" level. There's tons of room left for a slightly wider tire. With a body lift, you could go much bigger than that even.

Thanks. Today I was eyeballing some 325 60 18's. Someone posted some 315 50 20's and said there was still room left. So many decisions. But still have half life left on stockers, so I have some more time for research... and others to try out more combos.
Posted

Here's my 2014 All Terrain.

 

2.5 Rough Country Level

 

305 Nitto Trail Grappler

 

Camlocker toolbox

 

Rigid Duallys in the fog lights with the Rigid mounts.

 

15% tint all around

 

adegubuh.jpg

 

e5ynegeq.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

Here's mine w/ the new tires.. 1.5in leveling kit w/ 275/65 Terra Grapplers

 

11FFC370-8690-4331-A3C8-45AFE16372A3_zps

  • Like 2
Posted

I've been doing tons of research to decide which leveling kit to get. In the course of my research, I measured my wheel wells and it turns out my passenger rear sits roughly 3/4" higher than my driver's rear. Has anyone else noticed this? I initially thought it was because of the gas tank, but it measures the same whether the tank is empty or full.

 

Sorry if I'm hijacking this thread, but I didn't know where else to post it.

Posted

Most GM's do this, I think it has something to do with the arc or the roads. Most roads aren't flat and tend to sit lower at the gutter, so rain will wash away. But I could be wrong, I just seems to be the only logical explanation too me…

Posted

Sharp looking truck 20Sierra14!

 

How is the clearance on those tires with a 1.5" level? I put a 2" on mine and was looking at doing the 275-65-20's, but I've heard from some that it rubs and from others that it doesn't.

Posted (edited)

I've been doing tons of research to decide which leveling kit to get. In the course of my research, I measured my wheel wells and it turns out my passenger rear sits roughly 3/4" higher than my driver's rear. Has anyone else noticed this? I initially thought it was because of the gas tank, but it measures the same whether the tank is empty or full.

Sorry if I'm hijacking this thread, but I didn't know where else to post it.

Mine is 37 3/16 in the front on both sides, however the right rear is 39 3/4 and the left rear is 40 1/4. I thought this was due to the fuel tank being on the left rear??

Yours sits higher on the right rear? Hmmmm interesting, thought I had it figured out. That means the dealer is full of ...........

 

Edit: I wonder if the measurement is the same from the ground to the frame.

Edited by 14LTZZ71
Posted

Mine is 37 3/16 in the front on both sides, however the right rear is 39 3/4 and the left rear is 40 1/4. I thought this was due to the fuel tank being on the left rear??

Yours sits higher on the right rear? Hmmmm interesting, thought I had it figured out. That means the dealer is full of ...........

 

Edit: I wonder if the measurement is the same from the ground to the frame.

I'm not super concerned about it. When I get some more time, I'll take some more measurements. I'm glad I'm not the only one.

Posted

Anyone heard of any ball joint issues on the newer figs like the 900s? They used to have problems with the levels causing premature wear on the ball joints up front.

Posted (edited)

2014 Sierra Denali 6.2 Crew Cab

  • Fuel Mavericks 20x9
  • 33" Trail Grapplers
  • RCX 2.5" (installed new rear blocks)
It just rained so it's pretty dirty in this picture.

 

2e9atyme.jpg

Edited by daowens
  • Like 3
Posted

2014 Sierra Denali 6.2 Crew Cab

  • Fuel Mavericks 20x9
  • 33" Trail Grapplers
  • RCX 2.5" (installed new rear blocks)
It just rained so it's pretty dirty in this picture.

2e9atyme.jpg

Hey I just saw your truck posted on bks built trucks on Instagram and it looks bad ass. I've read this whole thread and I have a couple questions for you, or just anyone who can help. I've been in the process of ordering those same rims and tires for my 2014 white crew cab all terrain and I have the rough country 2.5" level installed on the front already. What is your offset on your rims and what are the tire specs, does it rub and did you have to trim. I want to try and fit some 305/55r20 trail graps on those rims maybe even a 20x10 with a negative 12 or 18 offset or whatever they offer in this rim but I haven't seen anyone do it with this same set up yet so I thought Id stop reading and waiting and just ask. Thanks for y'all's help
  • Like 1
Posted

Hey I just saw your truck posted on bks built trucks on Instagram and it looks bad ass. I've read this whole thread and I have a couple questions for you, or just anyone who can help. I've been in the process of ordering those same rims and tires for my 2014 white crew cab all terrain and I have the rough country 2.5" level installed on the front already. What is your offset on your rims and what are the tire specs, does it rub and did you have to trim. I want to try and fit some 305/55r20 trail graps on those rims maybe even a 20x10 with a negative 12 or 18 offset or whatever they offer in this rim but I haven't seen anyone do it with this same set up yet so I thought Id stop reading and waiting and just ask. Thanks for y'all's help

20x9 +20mm with 295/55/20. No rubbing. BKS did a great job on these. It's a really good looking setup.

 

6ate6eha.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 461 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...