Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

 

It says 1 QT on their website which is 32 ounces but I think that's total can capacity or interior volume so you have to account for the filtration portion at the top. I'm not sure what the actual capacity of the safe reservoir area is but I've been draining mine every 750 miles or so in the winter to ensure it doesn't get overfilled. I really wish RX made their cans like some of the competition where you can see how full it is or at least unscrew the bottom to get an idea of how much storage capacity you actually have to gamble with.

Wow, they claim 32 ounces....

 

Man, I can't imagine it holding a quart. The container I used to drain the can was nearly the same size as the can itself and it was nearly full. In fact I thought it was going to completely fill the container and I shut the valve off on the can when it approached full.

Edited by JimmyVal
Posted

Wow, they claim 32 ounces....

 

Man, I can't imagine it holding a quart. The container I used to drain the can was nearly the same size as the can itself and it was nearly full. In fact I thought it was going to completely fill the container and I shut the valve off on the can when it approached full.

 

I'd say at 10.5 ounces you were close to playing with fire there. I'd drain it more often based on what you got out. I wouldn't want mine to have more than 5-6 ounces or so in it just sitting there at any given time.

Posted

47704809d1347732846-rx-performance-oil-c

 

There's a cross section of an RX can from 2011. I assume it's the same size as our cans. You can see there's no way you get the full 32 ounces of storage capacity. You get 1/3-1/2 of that amount at best.

Posted

 

So is the RX can pretty much the one to get, I think you have all officially scared me into getting one lol?

et, I think you have all officially scared me into getting one lol?

 

I have the Elite Engineering catch can. The entire can unscrews from the top so you can see inside. Its less expensive than the RX but possibly hold less, the bottom part is about the size of a pop can. It works great and looks and feels very well built.

post-138443-0-48107500-1424875771_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-48107500-1424875771_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-48107500-1424875771_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-48107500-1424875771_thumb.jpg

Posted

47704809d1347732846-rx-performance-oil-c

 

There's a cross section of an RX can from 2011. I assume it's the same size as our cans. You can see there's no way you get the full 32 ounces of storage capacity. You get 1/3-1/2 of that amount at best.

Yea... I've learned my lesson. I'll be taking your advice and draining it every 500 miles.

 

Thanks for the cross section picture. I often wondered what it looked like in there!

Posted

et, I think you have all officially scared me into getting one lol?

 

I have the Elite Engineering catch can. The entire can unscrews from the top so you can see inside. Its less expensive than the RX but possibly hold less, the bottom part is about the size of a pop can. It works great and looks and feels very well built.

I'm sure your can will be effective. Living where you do I would keep an eye on it. For me it didn't take long to fill!

Posted (edited)

I'm sure your can will be effective. Living where you do I would keep an eye on it. For me it didn't take long to fill!

 

Yeah I'm getting about 5-6 ounces out every 750 miles here in Virginia. Mostly water. I'd expect that volume to drop significantly in the summer time when it's more likely to just be oil in the can.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted

How many miles ryan?

I have to check but it was about a month so maybe around 700-800

 

 

Ryan

Posted (edited)

Drained mine for the first time after 1,235 miles. 37,935 total on the truck.

 

5E226F0C-C07D-498A-9663-9778DEC70857_zps

 

5563586A-32F3-40B3-8431-B5839613B3D6_zps

 

I don't have any way to measure the ounces so that's a .223 round for comparison. I saw my wife's Pyrex measuring cup sitting on the kitchen counter but I really didn't feel like being castrated today.

 

That stuff is nasty. Got some on my hand and it smells like kerosene.

Edited by Wormydog1724
  • Like 1
Posted

After 7 days and 346 miles my can was about full. Measured about 5oz when I emptied it. The top was the oily residue but underneath was mostly the watery mix.

post-138443-0-45699900-1425150884_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-45699900-1425150884_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-45699900-1425150884_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-45699900-1425150884_thumb.jpg

Posted

Don't let it get that full. You do NOT want to suck a bunch of that in your engine all at once. It would be bad.

Posted

Don't let it get that full. You do NOT want to suck a bunch of that in your engine all at once. It would be bad.

Oh I agree with you there. But I've had the can Less than 2 weeks and didn't think it'd fill that fast. The out port was still an inch or so higher so I doubt I sucked in any. I can see why GM wouldn't install something like my version for the masses especially when people go 5000 miles or more between oil changes. The design would have to be a much larger reservoir.

Posted

I am new newer this forum. Been reading several of these catch can topics. I just had a few questions. Looking at mjj's picture up above in post #604, I had a question. Not knowing how the intake is plumbed, I noticed that both valve covers have a hose that run to the air intake "wing" apparatus? Is that air that is being pulled out of motor to be reburned, or pushed into the motor?

 

I was going to attach an edited picture, but have yet to figure that out.

Posted

part # 12619985 tube assembly - actually was given this info from another member on here not too far back :)

 

 

Any update on the Saikou dual cans? IE pricing, availability, etc?

Posted

I put mine on Tuesday. Drained about an ounce out of it today after 100 miles. Also cleaned the throttle body. Happy that this stuff is not getting back into the engine. I went with the rx can. Have a trip to Florida next week. I'm interested to see how much I drain out of it then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,873 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...