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Posted

 

I really don't think it makes a difference. The temperature difference in the corner of the engine bay versus closer to the engine isn't enough to make liquids condense better, especially with the temperature of the gases running through the interior of the can. If it was like a 20 or 30 degree swing, MAYBE but it just doesn't seem like enough to matter. The biggest thing that affects the can's function is the amount of internal surface area of the can that the gases make contact with and this is increased with baffles and filters, etc.

I talked to RX about my idea of hooking it to the low side line to keep it cool and he said it's funny I said that because they keep the Ford ones further forward for just the reason, but wasn't possible on the Silverado/Sierra. I don't think you will see a lot of difference from this location, but it certainly will not hurt it and if anything it will work better there.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just thought about this and there is one possible issue. The common practice when a hose collapses as it is usually a coolant line is to put the one with the steel coil inside to stop it. The cause is from the velocity of what is moving through it going to fast and pulling on the sides. When it moves to fast it will collapse the line. The proper fix it to increase the size of the line, not to go stiffer as you want to reduce the restriction, not brace for it. So, by mounting it further away you have a chance you will end up with a collapsed line. If you do just step the hose size up to 1/2", but this only needs to be done if it does create this issue. Just wanted to give you a heads up in case this does occur.

Posted (edited)

Just thought about this and there is one possible issue. The common practice when a hose collapses as it is usually a coolant line is to put the one with the steel coil inside to stop it. The cause is from the velocity of what is moving through it going to fast and pulling on the sides. When it moves to fast it will collapse the line. The proper fix it to increase the size of the line, not to go stiffer as you want to reduce the restriction, not brace for it. So, by mounting it further away you have a chance you will end up with a collapsed line. If you do just step the hose size up to 1/2", but this only needs to be done if it does create this issue. Just wanted to give you a heads up in case this does occur.

 

I disagree for a couple of reasons. First of all the stock line is a very stiff small diameter hose.

 

Secondly, the PCV system works essentially like a vacuum in that the intake is sucking the gases out of the crankcase. If you increase the diameter of the hose, and the suction from the intake does not increase, you reduce the vacuum effect at the crankcase. Now I'm not sure if reducing the vacuum effect is bad or not, but I personally would want to keep that vacuum effect as close to stock as possible since the engine was designed that way.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted

I bought the Jegs catch can and installed it on my 5.3 a couple weeks ago. Mounted on my brake booster. I have been getting a LARGE amount of moisture in it. I'm not sure if this should concern me or not. I think it's because of the extremely cold temperatures. I park my trucj in the garage but it stays outside while I'm at work. Any thoughts?

Posted

I bought the Jegs catch can and installed it on my 5.3 a couple weeks ago. Mounted on my brake booster. I have been getting a LARGE amount of moisture in it. I'm not sure if this should concern me or not. I think it's because of the extremely cold temperatures. I park my trucj in the garage but it stays outside while I'm at work. Any thoughts?

 

I've been pulling large amounts of moisture as well out of mine and it's definitely the cold temperatures. I'm not sure if parking in a garage changes that or not though I think it's just a function of winter fuel blends and driving around in the cold weather.

Posted

Just got around to installing my can. Here is where I mounted it. I used one of the radiator mounting bolts. I like this spot better than the brake booster because it's closer to the front and will be easier to empty. I ran out of the supplied hose, so for temporary purposes I am using fuel hose one of the runs. I will swap it out with trans oil similar to hosing that was supplied with the can.

 

gAAL3BO.jpg

 

t560wLD.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Just got around to installing my can. Here is where I mounted it. I used one of the radiator mounting bolts. I like this spot better than the brake booster because it's closer to the front and will be easier to empty. I ran out of the supplied hose, so for temporary purposes I am using fuel hose one of the runs. I will swap it out with trans oil similar to hosing that was supplied with the can.

 

gAAL3BO.jpg

 

 

t560wLD.jpg

Did you use the supplied bracket to mount it?

 

Also what is the zip tie doing?

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted

 

I disagree for a couple of reasons. First of all the stock line is a very stiff small diameter hose.

 

Secondly, the PCV system works essentially like a vacuum in that the intake is sucking the gases out of the crankcase. If you increase the diameter of the hose, and the suction from the intake does not increase, you reduce the vacuum effect at the crankcase. Now I'm not sure if reducing the vacuum effect is bad or not, but I personally would want to keep that vacuum effect as close to stock as possible since the engine was designed that way.

Changing the size of the hose will only reduce the speed of flow in that hose. The points in the intake and valve cover will be the same size and the speeds there will not change. The only way large hose would change things in this vacuum situation is if the line was running up high from the point it pulls from the valve cover because the lower speeds would allow the moisture and oil to fall back down easier and this would just reduce the need of the catch can really. Since we are really only pulling to the side it should have no effect. By the way the line from my valley cover to the intake was large than 3/8" on my 6.2L, possibly to help reduce the oil pulled with the gases. Would have to ask the engineer who made it if that was the purpose though.
Posted (edited)

Did you use the supplied bracket to mount it?

 

Also what is the zip tie doing?

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Yes I used the supplied bracket. I threw a zip tie on there to keep the can from bouncing while going down the road, you know the bracket makes a nice lever.

 

You can see the bracket in the second pic from the top down view.

Edited by fondupot
Posted

I just installed my RX cc so far happy with it I do feel the vibration on the gas pedal usually low rpms nothing major Ill add foam insulator to the bracket later I hear a small hissing nothing major I just know it workings and it did come with the valve that most claim it didn't come with.

Posted

Didn't take long after I ran a zip tie with through a piece of hose to the master cylinder that I forgot all about that vibration issue. Mine came with the check valve also.

Posted

Yea I enginerr something in the future it really isn't that bad for me but other than install quality its a 10/10 just to waiting to reach the 1k miles or 500

Posted

My Rx catch can came in the mail today and installed it in 20 minutes. Simple and easy, the throttle body had some black build up, easy clean up. Then shot a whole can of crc intake valve cleaner in there. Now I have to wait and see the results, and btw mines came with the check valve that some people didn't get.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Nice yea mine took about 20mins as well I still want to do research on bng cleaning ??? Not sure how it works or if it's safe but will see how much i collected after 1k miles

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