Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Assuming all hose connections are tight and there aren't any vacuum leaks or anything, and the fact that you had hesitation and loss of power, I'm thinking it's just a coincidence and has nothing to do with the catch can. It's likely a bad spark plug, bad fuel injector.....something within the engine itself that's affecting the combustion process.

 

 

 

There are a ton of us in here with catch cans of varying makes/models and none that I know of have had any CEL's as a result.

 

Agree, I dont see anyway a can would do that. I thought there was another thread with an issue like this, several people having spark plug wires coming loose at the coil. I would check all 8 at both ends.

Edited by jrob56
  • Like 1
  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

GDI Tech Enthusiast

GDI Tech

Posted
Posted

Has to be something routed incorrectly or a vacuum leal. If you can post pictures of all your hoses and connections, and the most important is the drain valve being closed (if so equipped).

 

And yes, the Extreme Auto can like this is the cheap China made junk. Anyone with a welded one got one of the originals. These as soon as it freezes out I think we will see plenty popping the glued on bottom and tops off:

 

DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg​

DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg​

 

These are what RXspeedworks sells so beware!!

kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted

Nice! Amazing that these guys have a clear conscience selling crap like that, especially for the price. Have to say elite treats there customers well and has a solid product.

Rotti54 Enthusiast

Rotti54

Posted
Posted

I don't see any evidence on my can that it is glued together at all. Guess I'll just see what happens as the bad weather nears

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AC_USMC_Ret Enthusiast

AC_USMC_Ret

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Assuming all hose connections are tight and there aren't any vacuum leaks or anything, and the fact that you had hesitation and loss of power, I'm thinking it's just a coincidence and has nothing to do with the catch can. It's likely a bad spark plug, bad fuel injector.....something within the engine itself that's affecting the combustion process.

 

 

 

There are a ton of us in here with catch cans of varying makes/models and none that I know of have had any CEL's as a result.

took to dealer, it was not believed to be related to the catch can...they said they could not find anything stored. Service tech said it could have been a bad fuel or some other small quick issue. I will continue to watch but all is well for now!- Thanks !

 

Agree, I dont see anyway a can would do that. I thought there was another thread with an issue like this, several people having spark plug wires coming loose at the coil. I would check all 8 at both ends.

^^^

Edited by AC_USMC_Ret
  • Like 1
kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted (edited)

There are a lot of opportunities for air leks with a catch can. I was runing worm gear style clamps and noticed that it was distorted a little. Switched to a spring style/factory style clamp and I noticed I had a stronger brake pedal and my MPG went up. so couldn't pinpoint that I had a leak but it ran better when I made sure all fittings were secure/snug.

 

Any "false" air behind the MAF at all is a problem. EFI 101. Could cause all types of mild driveabilty issues. My truck actually ran stronger when I spring clamped all lines and made sure all catch can fitting were properly sealed. Running a cleanside breather and once I re-routed the factory stuff and plugged the ports on the factory inlet tube it ran noticeable better and the brake pedal was strong. which leads me to believe air can get in where you don't want it.

 

To the topic above, if your can leaks, you have an air leak. pretty simple.

Edited by kennerz
Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Been a while since I've seen that. Haven't driven much in the cold yet. Mine will fill up real fast ...

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

How many miles did it take to produce that?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let me look tomorrow it's in my excel spreadsheet

 

 

Ryan

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

3 months and 3,205 miles

 

A little longer than I normally go between draining

 

 

Ryan

brwk Enthusiast

brwk

Posted
Posted

Getting back to air leaks....shouldn't you throw a code if the can's connections aren't fully sealed?

Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted

If it is a hose and it bounces, it could only loose seal at certain moments on leak more at those moments. Just a thought. Most like that guy had other issues.

 

This week will finally be below 80 here so no more sweating. I'm sure will go back up though.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted (edited)

Getting back to air leaks....shouldn't you throw a code if the can's connections aren't fully sealed?

 

I guess technically. If you suck in enough unmetered air, some sort of code should be thrown. I've never had an issue tho. All my connections are with screw type clamps too. They are all tight.

Edited by fondupot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      Howdy folks,   Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons.    Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!
    • TrueBlue
      Brake Pad Warning Message

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      Heated steering wheel

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights.   Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!  
    • Vu1can
      Brake Pad Warning Message

      By Vu1can · Posted

      Checked the pads today and there's plenty of meat on them. If the message keeps coming up, I'll just answer YES that the pads were replaced and wait for the squeal.
    • richard wysong
      p0449, p0446, p0451 Evap codes

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Welcome to the Forum! Always post the code definitions along with the codes. there are over 18000 possible codes, no one remembers them all and most will skip over your post rather than look them up

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...