Oil catch can?

[GDI Tech]

The more actually do these test's, the better we can all see what works well and what does not. This never bothered me much in the past unless a big boost build where any oil was causing detonation, but now everything is GDI, all needs to be stopped (or as much as possible).

 

Thanks!

[Huetatos]

Well, I ordered a e2-x kit. $344 out the door and it'll get here next week. Any recommendations on installation? (I don't need a torque wrench or anything right?)

Thanks

[fondupot]

Well, I ordered a e2-x kit. $344 out the door and it'll get here next week. Any recommendations on installation? (I don't need a torque wrench or anything right?)

Thanks

 

You can install with basic hand tools. Click the link below to see a video of installing a catch can.

 

 

Edited February 3, 2016 by fondupot

[Huetatos]

 

You can install with basic hand tools. Click the link below to see a video of installing a catch can.

 

 

Ah, Fondupots various tutorials. I like them.

Thanks a lot man! (no sarcasm if it sounds like it)

[GDI Tech]

He did a great job on several videos covering this.

[Silverado-Hareek]

 

The cost of the service could easily be made up in the mileage gains if your vehicle has been hit hard enough with coking.

 

I doubt there will ever be enough of a performance loss to make up the cost of one BG treatment with the performance gains the treatment will provide, much less a treatment every 15,000 miles. Unfortunately, owner's of GDI engines just need to accept that a $250-$350 cleaning every 15,000 miles is part of the new maintenance routine with these vehicles. And there's no going back as port injection is slowly phased out. Until someone comes up with a new engine design that fixes the valve coking issue and matches or exceeds the MPG's of a DI engine, this is the new standard going forward.

[sdeeter19555]

Has anyone done a comparison of condensation buildup between a can mounted above the exhaust manifold on the brake booster, and one at the spare battery location? I ran my temperature gun on those locations after a long drive at 35f ambient air temp. The truck was still running, and I popped the hood as soon as I got home and recorded the temps. The manifold was 89.5, the BB was 86.4,and the spare battery tray was 52f. That's a 34.4 degree difference. So my question is have people noticed less condensation in the winter at the brake booster location because of the hotter temperatures? I'm wondering if the spare battery tray would only be beneficial in the warmer times of the year.

It depends on how much driving you do with it mounted in either location...I have mine mounted up front and it gets hot enough from the hot air passing through it to evaporate most moisture in winter, but I also put 300 miles on in a stint too...I rarely get the milkshake looking stuff, and only if I do local short trips.

 

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[Silverado-Hareek]

It depends on how much driving you do with it mounted in either location...I have mine mounted up front and it gets hot enough from the hot air passing through it to evaporate most moisture in winter, but I also put 300 miles on in a stint too...I rarely get the milkshake looking stuff, and only if I do local short trips.

 

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Mine is mounted at the brakebooster where it's hotter and I get plenty of milky stuff. About 1 oz of fluid every 100 miles. I have to drain it every 600 miles max. I don't think temperature is the issue I think it's the quality of the catch can. I'm guessing you don't have an RX or an Elite E2X? I'm not trying to be mean or anything but the consensus is those cans catch more than anything else on the market and my RX is catching plenty of moisture and condensation where it's mounted at the brakebooster.

[sdeeter19555]

 

Mine is mounted at the brakebooster where it's hotter and I get plenty of milky stuff. About 1 oz of fluid every 100 miles. I have to drain it every 600 miles max. I don't think temperature is the issue I think it's the quality of the catch can. I'm guessing you don't have an RX or an Elite E2X? I'm not trying to be mean or anything but the consensus is those cans catch more than anything else on the market and my RX is catching plenty of moisture and condensation where it's mounted at the brakebooster.

Dude, drive more than 10 miles at a time, you won't have the milkshake because the can gets hot...doesn't matter what can.

 

Sorry I tried to explain it correctly...this is why I don't like fan boy threads.

 

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[Jsdirt]

Mine is milky in winter, even after a 400 mile trip hauling 6k lbs.. Happens in the cold.

[GDI Tech]

99% of all "catchcans" are very ineffective and only trap a small amount of mainly oil. These anyone can test and see at best trap 15%-30% of the damaging compounds you want to trap and remove. A truly effective air/oil separation system like those Hareek mentions will trap 95% plus, so they are removing far more. What they trap are also the water, unburnt fuel (especially in the cold winter months with cold start and cold running enrichment), sulfuric acid, abrasive soot/carbon/ash, and more keeping it out of the crankcase and the oil. So you should always see milky looking mix when emptying them except in the hot summer, and then they will still settle out to different layers like this:

 

[Silverado-Hareek]

Dude, drive more than 10 miles at a time, you won't have the milkshake because the can gets hot...doesn't matter what can.

 

Sorry I tried to explain it correctly...this is why I don't like fan boy threads.

 

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I do drive more than 10 miles at a time. I don't think you understand how catch cans work or the physics of an engine in cold weather versus warm weather. Before name calling, you should do some research on this stuff and educate yourself.

 

What kind of catch can do you have? That information could be helpful in determining why you aren't catching as much water as we are.

 

 

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[GDI Tech]

I do drive more than 10 miles at a time. I don't think you understand how catch cans work or the physics of an engine in cold weather versus warm weather. Before name calling, you should do some research on this stuff and educate yourself.

 

What kind of catch can do you have? That information could be helpful in determining why you aren't catching as much water as we are.

 

 

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Correct. Most cans (99%) only trap a small portion of the contaminants as they are very ineffective in design. Almost none take into consideration all the principals of flow dynamics, etc. so even those with coalescing media inside, or baffles, rarely take into consideration what will allow the condensed liquids to still be carried back out with the exiting flow. If the media is within 3" of an outlet, most will be pulled back out a cans outlet as the Bernoulli Principal and the Venturi Effect pick up liquid and carry it with the flow. Plenty other factors come into play, and nearly all are designed purely from assumptions the can designer thought works. Look at a Moroso can for example, (and many others with the same design and construction just labeled different) and you will see two chambers filled with coalescing media. The inlet and outlet are not designated, so no direction of flow specific. The side you use as the inlet will trap these effectively, but the side used as an outlet will saturate as well and as it is tight against the outlet (not the 3" minimum needed) it is the same as taking a wet wash cloth and placing it to your mouth and sucking. You suck water right from it. Now imagine the much stronger and greater flow out of the can...it pulls most of the oil and other compounds right back out. Then you have to look at internal volume. Anything less than close to a quart cannot allow the velocity, or speed of the flow through to slow to the point of the condensed/separated droplets to fall from suspension.

 

Tons more go into a proper effective design, but will save that.

[flyin99]

Here's my 1,000 mile can drain......surprised me, but now I know to keep an eye on it and check it often.

[GDI Tech]

What you DON'T want ingested into the engine!!!