Jump to content

Re-learn TPMS after tire rotation?

jdvaughn
 Share

Recommended Posts

jdvaughn Enthusiast

jdvaughn

Posted
Posted

Has anyone rotated their tires and successfully re-learned the tpms sensors to their corrent new loication? I changed the oil last night, but realized that there is a "calibration" tool to relearn the tmps sensors. I heard there was way to let the air out of the tire in the order of caliobration and that worked on the 11s.

 

And before you ask...I hate going to dealers so lets just leave that out of the conversation. Thanks for the help in advance.

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Steve-O-08
Steve-O-08

The TPMS sensor matching process is outlined below:   1. Set the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the engine off. 3. Press the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter's L

MikeNH
MikeNH

You need a tool or dealer visit. The air down procedure no longer works. Hasn't since mid 2011.

newdude
newdude

If you are rotating yourself buy the tool. Will work on just about any GM with TPMS. I have the GM one and it works well.

Posted Images

Steve-O-08 Enthusiast

Steve-O-08

Posted
Posted

The TPMS sensor matching process is outlined below:

 

1. Set the parking brake.

2. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the

engine off.

3. Press the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)

transmitter's LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the

same time for approximately five seconds. The

horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in

relearn mode and TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE

message displays on the DIC screen.

If your vehicle does not have RKE, press the

Driver Information Center (DIC) vehicle information

button until the PRESS V TO RELEARN TIRE

POSITIONS message displays. The horn sounds

twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode and

TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays on

the DIC screen.

If your vehicle does not have RKE or DIC buttons,

press the trip odometer reset stem located on the

instrument panel cluster until the PRESS V TO

RELEARN TIRE POSITIONS message displays.

The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in

relearn mode and TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE

message displays on the DIC screen.

4. Start with the driver side front tire.

5. Remove the valve cap from the valve cap stem.

Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or

decreasing the tire's air pressure for five seconds,

or until a horn chirp sounds. The horn chirp, which

may take up to 30 seconds to sound, confirms that

the sensor identification code has been matched to

this tire and wheel position.

6. Proceed to the passenger side front tire, and

repeat the procedure in Step 5.

7. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire, and repeat

the procedure in Step 5.

8. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the

procedure in Step 5. The horn sounds two times to

indicate the sensor identification code has been

matched to the driver side rear tire, and that the

TPMS sensor matching process is no longer

active. The TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message on

the DIC display screen goes off.

9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF.

10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure

level as indicated on the Tire and Loading

Information label.

11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

 

Just had to do this myself.

  • Like 7
gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

Has anyone rotated their tires and successfully re-learned the tpms sensors to their corrent new loication? I changed the oil last night, but realized that there is a "calibration" tool to relearn the tmps sensors. I heard there was way to let the air out of the tire in the order of caliobration and that worked on the 11s.

 

And before you ask...I hate going to dealers so lets just leave that out of the conversation. Thanks for the help in advance.

im curious as to what experience you had to make you say that last statement ,,,if ya dont want to tell us ,thats fine .

Ron.s Enthusiast

Ron.s

Posted
Posted

Great info...not so good with nitrogen fill.

 

How about adding a second set of tires with new a set of TPMS? I have an ATEQ that I've used on other vehicles to change from winter to summer tires. Or will the new pickup recognize the new sensors so you just identify the location?

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

You need a tool or dealer visit. The air down procedure no longer works. Hasn't since mid 2011.

  • Like 1
jdvaughn Enthusiast

jdvaughn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know the air down procedure doesnt work anymore and I dont believe the key fob method works either. The only way I believe is to go to the dealership and use their tool or order one. I was wondering more if someone ordered one or had any recommendations.

 

As far as never wanting to go to dealers, I have had too many reasons never to go back. Not really specific to one dealer, but multiple dealers over multiple various issues.

 

1. Had issues with the wrong weight oil installed in my wife's diesel along with the wrong fuel filter (therefore fuel was bypassing the filter). I realize accidents happen, but I am not ok with them happening at my expense (customer's expense).

2. Also had issues with door dent/chip from tech opening into a post lift

3. Have seen someone drive away from a dealership and almost have a wheel fall off due to the tech forgetting to retorque the lugs.

 

I work in an industry where we have to make everythign 100% retard proof becuase we cannot depend on the training of the supposidly trained/certified technicians. I have seen a lot of stupid things happen and just prefer to do the work myself so i know what oil is installed in my car, how the lugs were torqued etc....to each his own I guess.

 

 

I may just drive by the dealership now that the tires are rotated and ask them to let me use the tool or walk around it for a minute....literally a minute to do this procedure.

dtspitcherguy Enthusiast

dtspitcherguy

Posted
Posted

I used the same tool as SAMS819K2XX on my 2009 because air pressure never seemed to work and it worked great. Only took about a minute to do all four. Also works on wife's 2012 Terrain.

jst3 Enthusiast

jst3

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just tried this procedure on my '11 Silverado and it worked great. I've read about it - but never tried it.

Always bringing my truck to the dealer once a year for oil change and tire rotation so they can take care of resetting the monitors.

 

Ironically, I just had it into the dealer on Friday and they must have screwed it up because the service tire monitor system warning light came on today.

 

I think I'll go back to changing my own oil and rotating tires. I don't have time to be running back to the dealer, especially when they are only open during regular office hours.

Edited by jst3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      AC diagnostic on a neo-classic Camaro

      By Atlas · Posted

      tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Byrds8
      Ac not keeping up

      By Byrds8 · Posted

      Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 
    • KARNUT
      Ac not keeping up

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I call B.S. when I first moved to Texas my first house would only cool to 80 with the Texas heat. The AC tech said it was normal at 100 degrees outside. I remodeled the house put in a new AC. I could hang meat. My cars may need recirculating to start. Once moving it switches to regular AC and I could hang meat. Living in Texas no one would put up with only 20 degrees difference. 
    • Silverado4x4
      Ac not keeping up

      By Silverado4x4 · Posted

      AC in home or auto only cool down 15-25 degrees from outside temp, but what will help is to put the ac in recirc mode this will recirc the Inside cabin air rather then trying to cool down the outside hot air, I always have mine in recirc mode.
    • Mrob7
      1965 GMC 1000 series floor shifter

      By Mrob7 · Posted

      Found the fix for this.  Untightan the bolt just below top linkage on the steering column, turn assembly left to reduce space between the two linkage rods at the steering column, tighten bolt.  Made a big improvement.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...