Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

iCryWheniGoPoop Enthusiast

iCryWheniGoPoop

Posted
Posted

 

I've talked to a guy who has the 2/4 rough country and loves it, says it rides just like stock. It will sit a little higher in the rear, you'll need to adjust the rear by getting a lowering block but not sure what size would fix it.

Yeah, I have pulled it up a couple times today and looked at it along with the install instructions. I think I am going to go ahead and order it, that's a damn good price do get that kind of drop.

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

Cook Enthusiast

Cook

Posted
Posted

What's all this "fold the bed seam for clearance"? I can't imagine coming close to the seam with just a 2" shackle

  • Like 1
Black14crew Enthusiast

Black14crew

Posted
Posted

Ok to take it to the next "level" I want to drop my 14 4x4 2 in the front and 4 in the rear with an air bag set up in back so I can still pull a trailer. I've been told mcgauguys spindles will work on a 4wd for the front end. As for the rear I'm thinking pulling the block then remounting the hangers, and a set of overload air boatyard that I will only use when I have a heavy load or pull my camper. I have a great suspension guy that's exceeded to do the work, but he hasn't really done much lowering. He owns an off road shop and has build tons of 4 link jeep setups. Any thoughts???

iCryWheniGoPoop Enthusiast

iCryWheniGoPoop

Posted
Posted (edited)

What's all this "fold the bed seam for clearance"? I can't imagine coming close to the seam with just a 2" shackle

 

I can't speak for 4wd but my 2wd hit the bed seem on a 2" drop. Actually one side hit very lightly and the other side had about 1/16" clearance. I knew that any give in the rubber bushing would cause contact so I folded both sides over. Funny thing is that I had enough room to put the bolt in so I didn't think I had a problem, then I stuck my phone up there and took a picture and seen the issue. I wish I still had the photo to post now. I just assumed everybody had this problem until I started reading and nobody mentioned it. I actually contemplated using the 1" drop location and removing block so I wouldn't have to beat on my new truck

 

Somebody start a new thread asking for picks of 2" shackle drops, showing space between spring loop and bed seem. I'd bet that there is more rubbing than not.

Edited by iCryWheniGoPoop
CrRdz Enthusiast

CrRdz

Posted
Posted

3/5 drop

Enviado desde mi DROID4 mediante Tapatalk

 

 

 

What kit did you use?

Not my truck saw it in internet i would check if i can find some info

 

Enviado desde mi DROID4 mediante Tapatalk

Ljrussell94 Enthusiast

Ljrussell94

Posted
Posted

Has anybody removed the rear 1.25 blocks? Is it okay to do this? I leveled mine up front with a 2" kit and it still is 1.25 to 1.5 higher in the back

LTZTom Enthusiast

LTZTom

Posted
Posted (edited)

I got tired of jacking around with waiting for somebody to do my lowering blocks so I just did it myself today. Turned out GREAT. I'm attaching some pics for you below. The only thing I forgot to get for you was the front measurement but after looking at the pics you'll see it's PERFECT!! I'll be looking for pics of yours tomorrow!!

 

Im looking at replacing my rear 1.25 block with maybe a 1/2 like you did. Do you habe the link you bought it from and did you install it yourself? Is it okay to reuse the stock u bolt deals and nuts?

 

This is the rear measurement.

 

 

 

 

 

Here's where I got the blocks:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com

Just do search for lowering blocks. Look for the extruded aluminum ones.

 

Yes I did it myself and yes I reused the stock u-bolts.

 

It was pretty simple to do looking back on it. If I had to do it again it would REALLY be a piece of cake. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact me.

 

 

Tapatalk via iPhone 5s

Edited by LTZTom
CrRdz Enthusiast

CrRdz

Posted
Posted
I'm really liking that drop.

I think its McGaughys Part# 34160 saw some pictures from the website

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-T210R using Tapatalk

 

 

brentadams646 Enthusiast

brentadams646

Posted
Posted

Has anybody removed the rear 1.25 blocks? Is it okay to do this? I leveled mine up front with a 2" kit and it still is 1.25 to 1.5 higher in the back

 

If you measure it out and it is really 1.25" - 1.5" higher in the rear. Removing the rear blocks should level it out perfectly. The factory blocks are 1.27" thick.

Ljrussell94 Enthusiast

Ljrussell94

Posted
Posted

 

If you measure it out and it is really 1.25" - 1.5" higher in the rear. Removing the rear blocks should level it out perfectly. The factory blocks are 1.27" thick.

Yes it really is that much higher. Im confused as to why because its all stock in the back and a 2" kit up front.
brentadams646 Enthusiast

brentadams646

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yea that doesnt sound right at all.. lol

 

well on second thought, I had to add 2" leveling shackles plus lowering blocks to lower the truck down almost 3" to make it perfectly level. So its possible!

Edited by brentadams646
bigsapper Enthusiast

bigsapper

Posted
Posted
Belltech has a 3/6 kit out specifically for the 2014s. It's PN 988. Mine will be installed next Monday on my RCSB. My dealer would have had it installed as part of the original purchase, but various demons in the universe prevented it from happening.

 

Finally got mine sorted out. But I wouldn't recommend this kit for a RCSB. In addition to jacking with pinion shims and transmission spacers, the driveshaft needed to be shortened 1.5".

 

As the yutes would say, sketchy.

 

brentadams646 Enthusiast

brentadams646

Posted
Posted

Finally got mine sorted out. But I wouldn't recommend this kit for a RCSB. In addition to jacking with pinion shims and transmission spacers, the driveshaft needed to be shortened 1.5". As the yutes would say, sketchy.

 

Damn thats crazy I haven't ever heard anything about that!! What did the kit include??

bigsapper Enthusiast

bigsapper

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Damn thats crazy I haven't ever heard anything about that!! What did the kit include??

 

For the front, a newly redesigned front spindle and lower coils. Also included the front end alignment correction kit.

 

For the rear, a flip kit that was supposed to have been redesigned for 2014 to correct pinion angle issues present on the GMT900 series (hah!). Also a transmission mount spacer.

 

Also, the kit only "recommends" drop shocks. Consider them a must. I broke both of mine within 50 miles of driving.

 

Belltech kit 988. (reminds me I need to update Belltech support about my experience)

Edited by bigsapper

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PunchT37
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • SoCal Angler
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By SoCal Angler · Posted

      2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...