Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 minutes ago, 6ftdwn57 said:

Really? Damn! Did it feel like not allowing the springs to move or something? Like a harsher ride?

Yes and the leaf bolt rubbed on the shackle mount.  Made a loud squeaking noise 

Posted

Well looks like im screwed then. I scrapped the stock hangers a few weeks ago when I did a spring cleaning of my shop, so I cant even put them back on to get the 1" back. I really want to come down another 1''. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, 6ftdwn57 said:

Well looks like im screwed then. I scrapped the stock hangers a few weeks ago when I did a spring cleaning of my shop, so I cant even put them back on to get the 1" back. I really want to come down another 1''. 

How is your hanger set.  Stock hanger and shackle at the top setting is 6

Posted
21 minutes ago, 6ftdwn57 said:

I used McGuaghys flip kit, with their lift hanger, and stock shackles. Lift hanger set to the highest setting(for most drop). This is supposed to achieve 6" of drop.

 

If I would have kept my stock hangers, then I would have yielded 7" of drop.

 

So now, Im going with McGuaghys shackle designed for their flip kit with lift hanger for another 1" of drop, putting me down to 7". Which would be opposite of what you would need to lower, if you havent done a flip and lift hanger

Used their hanger, and bolted it at the highest setting, for the most drop. Had to fold over the pinch weld on the bottom of the bed to mount it up. This should have been a 6" drop, which it very well may have been.(I didnt take fender measurements before I did the drop) But I'm looking for one more inch. 

Posted
15 minutes ago, 6ftdwn57 said:

Used their hanger, and bolted it at the highest setting, for the most drop. Had to fold over the pinch weld on the bottom of the bed to mount it up. This should have been a 6" drop, which it very well may have been.(I didnt take fender measurements before I did the drop) But I'm looking for one more inch. 

I'll have my stock hangers available soon if you want    I'm raising to 6

Posted

ok cool keep me posted. Why going back up? Bottoming out on the axle too often?

Posted
4 minutes ago, 6ftdwn57 said:

ok cool keep me posted. Why going back up? Bottoming out on the axle too often?

I have bump stops. It's an ok ride but my back is gone so lifting it 1" will help 

Posted (edited)

I said forget the bumpstops, and those shorter aftermarket ones. Hasn't bottomed out on the axle yet after 10,000miles. Maybe try removing them? Gives you alot more room. I literally havent come close yet to touching. I taped a bottle cap to the bottom of the frame for a while, just to see, and it never hit. It's alot nicer ride, then to be bouncing around banging into those rubber stops all the time

Edited by 6ftdwn57
Posted
2 minutes ago, 6ftdwn57 said:

I said forget the bumpstops, and those shorter aftermarket ones. Hasn't bottomed out on the axle yet after 10,000miles. Maybe try removing them? Gives you alot more room. I literally havent come close yet to touching. I taped a bottle cap to the bottom of the frame for a while, just to see, and it never hit. It's alot nicer ride, then to be bouncing around banging into those rubber stops all the time

Not for me. Without them I hit frame every bump

Posted

hmm...weird to hear of the vast differences between truck to truck. sounds like your springs are softer or something. but maybe thats the just the difference 1'' can make

Posted (edited)

I think I've only bottomed out the rear 1 or 2 times in 40,000 miles... my tires kiss the liners before I hit the stops.

 

bumpstop-2.JPG

 

linerrub-rear.JPG

Edited by dla
  • Like 2
Posted

you have liners in the rear? Mine only came with them on the front. Thats nice!

Posted (edited)

I got my offset control arms bushings in today. The kit came with the removal and install tools which is nice, just need to have a ball joint press. 

 

I think I'm going to bring it into work tomorrow and throw it up on the alignment rack to see how close I can get it with the stock bushings.

 

Were all of you able to get camber in spec at 4" drop in the front? 

 

I'm pretty sure I'm going to take the 10mm rings out from under my spring cups to get the front down another 1/2" or so and then put the rear at 6".

 

DSC_0848.thumb.JPG.f740f1815da87d1fef136acd2a89e645.JPG

 

 

Edited by qwank
Posted
45 minutes ago, qwank said:

I got my offset control arms bushings in today. The kit came with the removal and install tools which is nice, just need to have a ball joint press. 

 

I think I'm going to bring it into work tomorrow and throw it up on the alignment rack to see how close I can get it with the stock bushings.

 

Were all of you able to get camber in spec at 4" drop in the front? 

 

I'm pretty sure I'm going to take the 10mm rings out from under my spring cups to get the front down another 1/2" or so and then put the rear at 6".

 

DSC_0848.thumb.JPG.f740f1815da87d1fef136acd2a89e645.JPG

 

 

I'm withing spec at 4.5 " drop in front 

  • Like 1
Posted

Here's my alignment spec sheet. Caster is still about 1 degree out on both sides. d54a3a4b1ab959435f50b970817810a2.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I just can't think of the exact term GM uses for that higher gvw package without looking at the website but basically sort of a trailering package and I imagine it may also have been created to skirt around the licensing fee differences between a3/4 and 1 ton that apply in some states although ironically I believe in some states its the reverse that a 1 ton is the cheaper truck to license over a 3/4 ton. It makes no difference here in Alberta but oddly enough a 1 ton through my insurance company is a bit cheaper to insure over a 3/4 ton as its based on the insurance statistics they generate.    For sure when ever you do have the chance to weigh your truck and to be fair, try to have the fuel tank full or nearly so rather than give yourself a false sense of the truck being lighter by having an almost empty tank.    In my other comment I was mentioning stock sized tires and partly in case someone was reading this and thinking they could lower their pressure down to what your aftermarket tires are able to do with your empty truck as that is a vastly different picture in the leeway you have to play with for running minimum pressures while remaining safe. I will say also that its easy to see from reactions of truck owners that may have been more used to owning a half ton in the past or a car and be it on a forum like this or in person etc that they get so wrapped up in that placard pressure sticker that they can't get their head wrapped around the fact that an HD truck due to how much it can carry can also vary the tire pressures drastically lower than those pressures ( typically more so for the rear axle on stock sized tires ) when empty vs some car that isn't made to carry much so the tire pressures can't be lowered since it needs almost that much pressure just to carry the empty car.    If I ever do find myself in the states with this truck, I will only be too happy to switch it over to the US measuring system as then I will understand all the dash readings. The only thing that is off for me slightly with US measurements is US miles per gallon as I grew up with the Imperial gallon and to this day up here anyway speak in Imperial miles per gallon ( I don't do that on this forum though as that would confuse everyone for no good reason ). 
    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...