2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

[Brian Hinojosa]

3 minutes ago, sharkeysierra said:

Yeah they installed it wrong, and I want to say backwards. 
 

AND

 

you are missing the pin the supposed to sit in that slot. I put a couple yellow dots where that pin supposed to be. 

What’s your number so l could send you the videos l took?

[sharkeysierra]

Pm’d

[Brian Hinojosa]

What’s the best way to contact you? I would like to send you videos of how’ everything was installed 

[sharkeysierra]

I PM d you, also see instructions for the camber plates that I have attached. 
 

https://www.belltech.com/extras/docs/BBGC/4951.pdf

 

edit: it’s installed correctly as far as placement. Just missing the pin that adjusts your camber that holds the plate in place. Chances are they are missing on both sides.

Edited July 26, 2020 by sharkeysierra

[ChristianR]

On 11/1/2013 at 9:45 AM, JRoss14 said:

I'm thinking about doing the same, let me know how it goes if you get to it first and I'll do the same.

I removed my rear blocks when I first got my truck to try and level out the back and it rode great afterwards so I recommend it. Ill drop some pics if the difference removing the rear block made below.

[Steveo553]

 

This is my 2015 SLT with a 3-6 drop.  I used the McGaughy's spindles and adjustable struts up front and the shackles and axle flip in the back.  I also installed helper air bags so I can still tow with it.  It's been 2 years and I couldn't be happier with the kit.  Those are stock 22" Denali rims.

Edited August 20, 2020 by Steveo553

[WHITESSTOWPIG]

Guys if anyone has a lowered RCSB and doesnt mind sacrificing a little payload capacity for a softer ride I urge you to read on.I struggled with ride quality issues for a long time trying many different mixes of parts and was never able to find answers.I am finally pretty happy with the ride and handling so hopefully this might help someone who may be fighting the same issues in the future.

 

Vehicle : 2017 Silverado Regular Cab Short Bed 2WD

 

Upfront : Belltech Coilovers set to 3.5 " drop and solid sway bar end links

 

Rear : 5" Flip Kit , Rear Swaybar, Nitro 2 Shocks, Shock extenders, and Sulastic Shackles

 

Leaf Springs : OEM pack with the rear of the overload cut down 6" before the axle

 

Driveline : Rebalanced OEM driveshaft, 1/2" trans mount shim , 3 deg axle shim

 

Wheels : OEM 20 " Wheels and Continental Tires at 30psi

 

This setup has been the best compromise between looks and handling for me.It is very smooth and only jarring with deep potholes same as a stock truck.Drive line angle is shimmed within .02 and vibration is only minimally present at 75mph diminishing at both slower and faster speeds.On rims I have tried 20" or larger running 30psi or lower in the tires and keeping the spare tire in place for ballast weight behind the axle always yielded the best results.The more tire you put on the road or ballast weight you put behind the axle the smoother the ride was and the less vibration experienced at speed.Hopefully this helps someone someday

Edited September 4, 2020 by WHITESSTOWPIG

[sharkeysierra]

I would suggest to anyone looking to flip your axle. Invest in a good set of helper bags.. it is not required, you don’t need it to drop your truck. But the helper bags will change your world when dropping a truck.

 

 

[Steveo553]

2 hours ago, sharkeysierra said:

I would suggest to anyone looking to flip your axle. Invest in a good set of helper bags.. it is not required, you don’t need it to drop your truck. But the helper bags will change your world when dropping a truck.

 

 

I completely agree.  I still use my truck to tow and haul stuff occasionally.  With a 3-6 drop and helper air bags I have no issues loading it up to its capacity and driving safely and comfortably.

[Dinner]

On 8/30/2020 at 4:04 PM, WHITESSTOWPIG said:

Guys if anyone has a lowered RCSB and doesnt mind sacrificing a little payload capacity for a softer ride I urge you to read on.I struggled with ride quality issues for a long time trying many different mixes of parts and was never able to find answers.I am finally pretty happy with the ride and handling so hopefully this might help someone who may be fighting the same issues in the future.

 

Vehicle : 2017 Silverado Regular Cab Short Bed 2WD

 

Upfront : Belltech Coilovers set to 3.5 " drop and solid sway bar end links

 

Rear : 5" Flip Kit , Rear Swaybar, Nitro 2 Shocks, Shock extenders, and Sulastic Shackles

 

Leaf Springs : OEM pack with the rear of the overload cut down 6" before the axle

 

Driveline : Rebalanced OEM driveshaft, 1/2" trans mount shim , 3 deg axle shim

 

Wheels : OEM 20 " Wheels and Continental Tires at 30psi

 

This setup has been the best compromise between looks and handling for me.It is very smooth and only jarring with deep potholes same as a stock truck.Drive line angle is shimmed within .02 and vibration is only minimally present at 75mph diminishing at both slower and faster speeds.On rims I have tried 20" or larger running 30psi or lower in the tires and keeping the spare tire in place for ballast weight behind the axle always yielded the best results.The more tire you put on the road or ballast weight you put behind the axle the smoother the ride was and the less vibration experienced at speed.Hopefully this helps someone someday

Any photos of this set up? 

[WHITESSTOWPIG]

5 hours ago, Dinner said:

Any photos of this set up? 

I was always trying different things so I never bothered with pictures. Was alot of trial and error trying to find the right compromise but its all normal off the shelf stuff.Really its just the correct ones working together in combination that will make all the difference

Edited September 10, 2020 by WHITESSTOWPIG

[UofAZCats]

Last time I checked in on this thread it was pointed out my axle flip kit was put on improperly by the shop I had install it.  The bottom plate was on top and the top plates were missing.   I took about 4 weeks but finally got new top plates from Belltech.  Instead of taking it back to the shop I finally bit the bullet and ordered a jack and jack stands.  Got a great deal on a 3 ton jack on Amazon - most have been an error on the listing because I paid $35 including free freight delivery for a jack that was listed a day later for $235.  Once everything was in hand I got under the rear end and fixed the flip kit so that the bottom plate was on the bottom and added the top plate on the top.  That was about 2-3 weeks ago.   

 

Before fast forwarding to yesterday I will note that last Christmas I got a Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) kit.  The RAS fits on the rear leaf springs but it is designed to fit on a non-lowered vehicle.  The front is secured by a bolt that sits in front of axle, which it can't with a flip kit.  Also with the rear shackles that I have there is no room for the rear hook clamp to fit around the end of the leaf spring as designed.  I found new shackles that leave enough room for the the rear hook clamp to hook onto the leaf springs.  That left trying to figure out how to secure the RAS in front of the axle/leaf spring.

 

So yesterday I decided to get underneath and find a way to get the RAS installed.  I got the truck up on the jack stands and went to work.  First I changed out the shackle on the driver side which was pain in the butt.  The new shackle was a little wider than the old shackle at the top where it bolts to the reverse hanger.  Part of the issue was that it looks like the original installer may have bent the outside of the reverse hanger.  I had to trim some of the bushing's edges to get it started and then use a mallet to get it into the right spot.  Only used some of my four letter word vocabulary during this step.  On the front part after trying several different ways to do it I finally ended up - drum roll please - putting the top plate on the bottom and the bottom plate on the top.  The bottom plate didn't allow the arms of the RAS to drop below the leaf springs because the plate is wider than the springs to hold the U-bolts.  The top plate is only as wide as the leaf springs so the RAS bolt can sit in front of that plate to secure the front end of the RAS.

 

My concern with the original wrong set up is that there was no plate on the bottom to hold the axle in place. So at least this time with the top plate on the bottom it can sit on the leaf spring bolt and help hold the axle in place.

 

When I moved over to the passenger side I know what to do and things started out moving right along at a much quicker pace until I got to removing the shackle to be replaced.  When the installer put the shackle on the reverse hanger they used an impact wrench and over tightened the top bolt on the shackle to the point that I could not get the bolt to loosen at all with hand tools.  After using all of my four letter word vocabulary and coming close to stripping the bolt head I stopped.  I don't have an impact wrench so I need to find someone who can loosen that damn thing.  So the passenger side does not have the RAS installed.  The joy of DIY.

 

First picture is the top view.  The RAS is the black spring thing.  Second picture shows the new shackle and the hook clamp of the RAS wrapped around the end of the leaf spring.  Third picture is the front bolt of the RAS sitting in front of the top plate (which is now the bottom plate).

[204-WPG]

57 minutes ago, UofAZCats said:

Last time I checked in on this thread it was pointed out my axle flip kit was put on improperly by the shop I had install it.  The bottom plate was on top and the top plates were missing.   I took about 4 weeks but finally got new top plates from Belltech.  Instead of taking it back to the shop I finally bit the bullet and ordered a jack and jack stands.  Got a great deal on a 3 ton jack on Amazon - most have been an error on the listing because I paid $35 including free freight delivery for a jack that was listed a day later for $235.  Once everything was in hand I got under the rear end and fixed the flip kit so that the bottom plate was on the bottom and added the top plate on the top.  That was about 2-3 weeks ago.   

 

Before fast forwarding to yesterday I will note that last Christmas I got a Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) kit.  The RAS fits on the rear leaf springs but it is designed to fit on a non-lowered vehicle.  The front is secured by a bolt that sits in front of axle, which it can't with a flip kit.  Also with the rear shackles that I have there is no room for the rear hook clamp to fit around the end of the leaf spring as designed.  I found new shackles that leave enough room for the the rear hook clamp to hook onto the leaf springs.  That left trying to figure out how to secure the RAS in front of the axle/leaf spring.

 

So yesterday I decided to get underneath and find a way to get the RAS installed.  I got the truck up on the jack stands and went to work.  First I changed out the shackle on the driver side which was pain in the butt.  The new shackle was a little wider than the old shackle at the top where it bolts to the reverse hanger.  Part of the issue was that it looks like the original installer may have bent the outside of the reverse hanger.  I had to trim some of the bushing's edges to get it started and then use a mallet to get it into the right spot.  Only used some of my four letter word vocabulary during this step.  On the front part after trying several different ways to do it I finally ended up - drum roll please - putting the top plate on the bottom and the bottom plate on the top.  The bottom plate didn't allow the arms of the RAS to drop below the leaf springs because the plate is wider than the springs to hold the U-bolts.  The top plate is only as wide as the leaf springs so the RAS bolt can sit in front of that plate to secure the front end of the RAS.

 

My concern with the original wrong set up is that there was no plate on the bottom to hold the axle in place. So at least this time with the top plate on the bottom it can sit on the leaf spring bolt and help hold the axle in place.

 

When I moved over to the passenger side I know what to do and things started out moving right along at a much quicker pace until I got to removing the shackle to be replaced.  When the installer put the shackle on the reverse hanger they used an impact wrench and over tightened the top bolt on the shackle to the point that I could not get the bolt to loosen at all with hand tools.  After using all of my four letter word vocabulary and coming close to stripping the bolt head I stopped.  I don't have an impact wrench so I need to find someone who can loosen that damn thing.  So the passenger side does not have the RAS installed.  The joy of DIY.

 

First picture is the top view.  The RAS is the black spring thing.  Second picture shows the new shackle and the hook clamp of the RAS wrapped around the end of the leaf spring.  Third picture is the front bolt of the RAS sitting in front of the top plate (which is now the bottom plate).

Maybe because of the RAS kit install that the u-bolt pad mount plates are in reverse. I am not getting it why.

[UofAZCats]

1 minute ago, 204-WPG said:

Maybe because of the RAS kit install that the u-bolt pad mount plates are in reverse. I am not getting it why.

The bottom plate is wider than the arms on RAS so the bolt holes don't get below the leaf spring.  I had the bottom plate on the bottom while trying to install the RAS and the arms just sit on top of the bottom plate because the bottom plate is wider than the arms.  Therefore the bolt holes sty even with the leaf spring instead of below.

[204-WPG]

12 minutes ago, UofAZCats said:

The bottom plate is wider than the arms on RAS so the bolt holes don't get below the leaf spring.  I had the bottom plate on the bottom while trying to install the RAS and the arms just sit on top of the bottom plate because the bottom plate is wider than the arms.  Therefore the bolt holes sty even with the leaf spring instead of below.

Just what I thought. Have you tried reaching out to Belltech to inquire if this flip kit install set up can also be done? I am just worried of the safety aspect, that’s all.