Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Couldnt agree with you more. My generation (24YO, born '95) is the most informed, world-at-its-feet generation and they couldnt find a hammer in a hardware store if they walked in with it.
Mine calls screws nails [emoji38]

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, doubeleive said:

ordered the Katech 80mm l83 ported throttle body, B&M 70392 deep trans pan and a tru-cool 40k, got to figure out how to mount up the tru-cool and avoid the active shutters looks like there might be enough room, has anybody added the tru cool on the 2018? any tips? I already took out the trans thermostat didn't help much.

also you should order the Katech 175 t-stat for the motor.. 

if your trans aint cooler after tranny stat delete, then you most likely didnt do something right. did you tap and plug the internal bi-pass?

 

how you gonna fit the deep pan with stock exhaust? 

Edited by flyingfool
  • Like 1
Posted
13 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

also you should order the Katech 175 t-stat for the motor.. 

if your trans aint cooler after tranny stat delete, then you most likely didnt do something right. did you tap and plug the internal bi-pass?

 

how you gonna fit the deep pan with stock exhaust? 

Deep pan will fit I have the same pan on my Yukon all you have to do is unbolt the exhaust a little during install. 

yes on the trans stat delete I took it all out, tapped it and put in a cap inside, I have a heavy foot, i had to do the same thing to my Yukon it would run 220+ just driving around town once I installed the tru cool and deep pan it runs about 135 the most I have gotten it up to since then was 180 and that was beating on it pretty hard normally just driving like I do it runs about 135-160 in the summer and about 125 in the winter

  • Like 1
Posted
12 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

you must have big wheels too?

no, I just drive harder than 99% of the population, the transmission is the only part that gets hotter than what I am comfortable with and the underhood heat concerns me I wish I could figure out a way to direct more cool air into and out of the engine compartment, something simple that wouldn't require any major modifications.

Posted (edited)

Well, I havent posted any actual mods for a month or so, but heres a few, and I wont forget links this time to start.

 

-  Cabin air filter, which hasnt been changed since it was new. (Now at 77K miles) --------  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP525XP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-  Dorman 917-413 Oil Filler Neck (Saw another member with this, thought it was an awesome upgrade, shoutout to [mention=191210]CajunFries[/mention] for the idea. Quite a bit of dremeling, but it was pretty quick and easy.

     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D8VK6WY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Wheel Locks, dont need to explain much there...i hope ------------------- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028090JM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Underseat Storage Bin (Been wanting this for a while, finally got one) ---- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZBM3RG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

 

Edited by VanguardK2
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

This has been the biggest pain to post photos on Tapatalk

 

20191105_175003.jpg20191104_122143.jpg20191105_181457.jpg

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

20191105_174954.jpg

Edited by VanguardK2
  • Like 2
Posted
8 hours ago, doubeleive said:

no, I just drive harder than 99% of the population, the transmission is the only part that gets hotter than what I am comfortable with and the underhood heat concerns me I wish I could figure out a way to direct more cool air into and out of the engine compartment, something simple that wouldn't require any major modifications.

i've seen people completly remove the lower plastic cowel and windshield wipers under the windshield on other cars, this lets out a lot of heat under the hood, without having to buy a fiberglass race hood. usually its like a 8-10 inch opening once removed. not sure how it would work on our truck tho , i would reinstall the wiper arms afterwards for function

  • Like 1
Posted
i've seen people completly remove the lower plastic cowel and windshield wipers under the windshield on other cars, this lets out a lot of heat under the hood, without having to buy a fiberglass race hood. usually its like a 8-10 inch opening once removed. not sure how it would work on our truck tho , i would reinstall the wiper arms afterwards for function
We did that on track cars. Remove the rubber that seals the hood to the cowl. Or all the plastics. Other then that we raised the rear of the hood. Looks horrible but the large gap let are through. Other then that change fan speeds, lower or deleted thermostat, and huge radiator air dams up
Under vehicles.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

yeah , maybe you can fabricate a grill cover , and powder coat it black so it simulates the look of the plastic lower cowling but its still full flow venting to let the heat out

Edited by flyingfool
  • Like 1
Posted

my original thought was maybe some electric fans, one on each side to blow cool air up from the bottom but quiet ones generally fans are noisy though. I could pick up one of those wireless cooking thermometers and see what the temps actually are under the hood while moving then experiment with a couple different things and see what works better.

Posted

There are holes in the steel bumper that get covered with plastic. Just like older HD trucks had that spot open for trans cooler. Hard to get more air then that. And I have no temp issues and my exhaust gas is 1500* but I would think this little guy helps.8e02613b473741ebab0e9601d50b147b.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

b8b06be15589ddd53fbad95a330f1354.jpg

:FLAME SUIT ON:

Baja Design Squadron Pro facing forward and Rigid Flood for ditch light. The Baja Design is hooked up to the high beam. The Rigid is hooked up to the OffRoad Light button.

The mount is from SDHQ with an add on extra plate for the second light.

In the next month or so I’ll switch the Rigid out for another set of Baja Design.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 651 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...