Jump to content

'Interior Driver Assist Handle'

tenx82

By tenx82
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

martha3065 Enthusiast

martha3065

Posted
Posted

Put one in my 16 CC this afternoon. Under $45 shipped from Amazon. Took around 30 minutes to install. Once I got the old one out, the tether could easily be unclipped from the panel. The post on the new one wouldn't line up with the hole, until I really pushed downward into the dash, but did line up. Hopefully this will save someone from cutting theirs.

  • Replies 480
  • Created
  • Last Reply
joemartin Enthusiast

joemartin

Posted
Posted

So is this the correct part number for a driver assist handle on a 2015 Sierra black/grey interior? Part #: 23285090

wrc7732 Enthusiast

wrc7732

Posted
Posted

So is this the correct part number for a driver assist handle on a 2015 Sierra black/grey interior? Part #: 23285090

That's the one I bought off eBay, and it's perfect.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

martha3065 Enthusiast

martha3065

Posted
Posted

So is this the correct part number for a driver assist handle on a 2015 Sierra black/grey interior? Part #: 23285090

Yes. That's the number I got from Amazon and matches my 2016 Silverado with black/gray interior. Can't tell a difference from the stock passenger one, other than its reversed [emoji12]
  • 4 weeks later...
falconman515 Enthusiast

falconman515

Posted
Posted

Thanks for this thread ... I ordered one from my local GM parts shop for $50

 

They said the new part# is 23285090 (all the previous part#'s are the same really this is just the new one for the same product basically) for the Jet Black interior (I think if you have brown it end in 089 instead of 090)

 

Seems like an easy install hopefully.

 

i will be picking it up today along with my truck getting the Amp Research PowerSteps installed.

 

This handle literally should be a stock thing but at least they have the option.

 

Thanks again for the thread here

falconman515 Enthusiast

falconman515

Posted
Posted

Ordered this for my new 2016 Silverado Z71 .... I've got jet black leather and so it's the gray trim.

 

Pulled old one and screw mounts were there. ... it pulls just as easy as they say, slip a couple fingers up top and pull ... it just comes out.

 

The black tab was in there tight, used a flat head to open it up more to let it out and once I did that it slipped right out of the old pillar panel.

 

Popped the black tab out, pushed it out of the way, separated the black arms on the tab to make room for the spike on the new pilar piece and it slid in fine and the black tab just stayed sitting behind the new piece.

 

Maneuvered the pillar to line up the bolt holes and screwed them in ... BTW 10mm socket for these bolts.

 

Popped the covers on and it was all done.

 

Just a Sliiiiggghhht gap up top but no biggie (nothing at bottom).

 

Ordered at local shop for $50 (23285090)

 

I would post a pic but it looks like all the others in here.

 

Now the truck looks normal with all 4 sides looking the same.

 

Got the Amp Research steps on today ... not sure how handy this handle will be but nice to know my Oh $#!t handle is there if needed. ;)

 

Thanks again for the great thread ... excellent forum so far. :D

BigDs_DenaliHD Enthusiast

BigDs_DenaliHD

Posted
Posted

Installed one on my 2014 LTZ Z71 a couple days ago... took about 10 mins. The lanyard came off the old piece and clipped onto itself like others have mentioned in the thread. To get the alignment spike in, I tilted the new piece slightly so I could see the spike going between the lanyard straps and then wiggled it until it popped in. Bolted it in and installed the caps. Thanks for posting all the info in here... made it easy!

 

 

 

D

  • 2 weeks later...
Brian2015 Enthusiast

Brian2015

Posted
Posted

between the steering wheel and handle on the headliner, do people really need a 3rd handle?! lol maybe it's because I'm new to a general truck forum, but man people on this site make the biggest deals about the smallest things! lol next thing you'll need is a step up to your running boards then you'll need a handle so that you can grab your newly added handle!! Like stairs for your truck!!!!

 

romik-running-board-side-steps-with-add-

Well....All I can say is that some of us are not perfect like you. Some of us have wives or older family members or bad knees and might need that handle/running boards to help them in/out...some of us don't want to slide off the seat and wear the edge of the seat material/foam.

 

There's a reason Baskin Robbins makes 30 friggin flavors of ice cream...not everyone likes what you like. :lol:

Brian2015 Enthusiast

Brian2015

Posted
Posted

Put one in my 16 CC this afternoon. Under $45 shipped from Amazon. Took around 30 minutes to install. Once I got the old one out, the tether could easily be unclipped from the panel. The post on the new one wouldn't line up with the hole, until I really pushed downward into the dash, but did line up. Hopefully this will save someone from cutting theirs.

 

exactly what I experienced.

markophonic Enthusiast

markophonic

Posted
Posted

I just finished installing on my 2014 Crew Cab. Took me ten minutes tops. Stock trim pops right off. I slid the tether clip off the stock trim and folded it over and attached it to itself... it clips back to itself. Lined up the new trim being sure to get in down in the dash enough. I little bit of twisting and moving and you can tell when you get it seated properly. Just aim the spike on the new trim into the hole. I initiall had a gap at the top because the edge of the trim on the windshield side was not wrapped over the pillar...a little finessing and everything seated fine. Bolt it down and add the little trim covers and done.

 

Definitely makes it easier for me to enter and exit the truck without sliding down the left edge of the seat bottom. I'm 6 foot and 220 pounds. It allows me to pull myself up and step down onto the nerf bar. It will save the seat some wear and tear.

 

I would have never known the part was available without reading about it on the forum!

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

between the steering wheel and handle on the headliner, do people really need a 3rd handle?! lol maybe it's because I'm new to a general truck forum, but man people on this site make the biggest deals about the smallest things! lol next thing you'll need is a step up to your running boards then you'll need a handle so that you can grab your newly added handle!! Like stairs for your truck!!!!

 

romik-running-board-side-steps-with-add-

 

 

Well right now I don't need to use it. For one the handle on the headliner is awkward to try to grab and pull yourself in with it so really you only have the steering wheel which is what I use. The reason I installed it is because for one it does give me something to hold onto if I'm cleaning my windshield and also I plan on keeping this truck long enough to where one day I will start to needing the handle to help get in.

 

I do agree that some people on here find the smallest things to complain about or nitpick, but not all are like that.

Pokes2012 Enthusiast

Pokes2012

Posted
Posted

Just ordered mine part#23135699 for 2014 SLT Sierra All Terrain Hope it fits!

molsonice02 Enthusiast

molsonice02

Posted
Posted

I had a clunk in the steering column of my 2013 Sierra from using the steering wheel to jump in, I happily paid 50$ for this grab handle and installed it. Works like a charm and matches the passenger side to boot.

SGI2015 Enthusiast

SGI2015

Posted
Posted

This assist handle should really be standard on the 1500s and I had wanted the dealer to install it when I got my truck last year but they got confused and told me there was no such thing available. Although I knew they were wrong I didn't want to hold up taking delivery waiting to get this sorted out. Then recently I came across this forum topic, ordered the part for the grey/black interior from Amazon, got it in a few days and installed it in about 10 minutes. It was quick, easy to do and a perfect fit, especially thanks to the folks who took the time to post helpful install tips in this thread earlier. As others have said, in addition to making getting in/out easier it will save wear and tear on the seat from not having to slide so much.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 494 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...