Jump to content

'Interior Driver Assist Handle'


tenx82

Recommended Posts

Posted

My handle arrived yesterday. It looks like it was actually shipped from a chevy dealer the way the label on the box looks.

 

Came with bolts and instructions. I probably wont get around to getting it put it in until this weekend.

  • Replies 480
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

My handle arrived yesterday. It looks like it was actually shipped from a chevy dealer the way the label on the box looks.

 

Came with bolts and instructions. I probably wont get around to getting it put it in until this weekend.

 

I've ordered mine, will pick it up in the next few days...

Posted

Those of you that have put your driver assist handle in ... you know that black clip you hand to undo to get the old off? What happens with it on the new pillar? Mine doesnt have a slot to put it back in

 

That normal

Posted

Those of you that have put your driver assist handle in ... you know that black clip you hand to undo to get the old off? What happens with it on the new pillar? Mine doesnt have a slot to put it back in

 

That normal

 

 

You have to pry it out of the A pillar. I used a thin screwdriver and severe force. Once that tether comes out, it reveals a little hole where the "spike" on the new trim piece will fit into.

Posted

Can an assist over head handle on passenger side be installed if nothing is there? The handle above the door to "Grab" when going around a turn.

 

2013 GMC SLE...for a friend to do.

 

Also the driver pillar assist handle on the 2013

 

Sierra Boy

Posted

 

You have to pry it out of the A pillar. I used a thin screwdriver and severe force. Once that tether comes out, it reveals a little hole where the "spike" on the new trim piece will fit into.

You don't actually have to remove the tether. You can fold it back, just separate them, and put the spike in the hole in between the lines. I did it that way, just in case I ever wanted to put the original trim piece back on.

 

Mine fits perfectly, but you do need to separate the lines in the tether, and go right between them with the spike.

Posted

Ordered mine yesterday at the Dealership, List price $50.00 with a 10% customer discount makes the out the door price $45.00, no sales tax in NH.

 

Can't wait to try it, I'm 6' 2" and find it much easier to enter the cab on the passenger side with the factory handle and the running boards, never mind it gives me a handle to wash the roof as I have a topper roof to wash too.

Posted

im already liking having the assist handle. Helps me not land on the side of the seat when getting in the truck.

 

Now to add on the side steps tomorrow should make it even easier

 

Im only 5'11"

Posted

So I get a call today at noon time that my handle has come in at the Dealership and I picked it up within an hour and like other's have said I installed it in less than 10 mins!

The supplied instructions are a waste of paper, so I followed the steps listed in this thread.

I really like the handle, for me it seems easier to enter and egress the cab and again I'm 6'2".

This handle should have been included with the truck, but I'm very happy I found this thread and it was so easy to install too!

 

The USPS mail came within an hour of the install and I received Urgent Recall Notice for my 2014 Silverado # 15203, so I'll be back at the Dealership next week again for that.

Posted

Installed mine over the weekend. Caveman easy. Took all of 5 minutes. Got it from ShopChevyParts.com. $49 TYD. I love it. Looks great. No gaps. Love the symmetry. I'm using it all the time. Saves your leather seat from unnecessary wear if you use the handle instead of sliding in and out so much. Great addition.

Posted

Finally got around to installing my handle. Like others have mentioned it's a real easy quick upgrade. Old one pulls off easily. You need to disconnect the little black plastic tether from the original by popping the little clip out. I left mine attached to the vehicle and the plastic piece that sticks out of the new handle just went in between it into the line up hole. Snapped the top in and line the bolt holes up and you're all set. No more grabbing the steering wheel.

post-138443-0-77361200-1436015224_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-29817700-1436015258_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-50418100-1436015342_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-77361200-1436015224_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-29817700-1436015258_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-50418100-1436015342_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-77361200-1436015224_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-29817700-1436015258_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-50418100-1436015342_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-77361200-1436015224_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-29817700-1436015258_thumb.jpg

post-138443-0-50418100-1436015342_thumb.jpg

Posted

maybe i missed the question/answer but will this fit the 2015 as well ?

Yes. From what I understand it can be ordered as a factory option on the 2015's.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If one can't be found, a good automotive upholstery shop should be able to replace/sew in a new panel where the damage is on the old cover. It might not be the cheapest option..
    • Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs.    Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process. 
    • I do have the 8 speed.  Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all!  I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem.  I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop.  I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.
    • Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like 
    • Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar.    One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem.    Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage.    He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit.    I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard.    I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...