Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This thread made me curious, so I crawled under my truck today and checked out the coating. I couldn't find a single area where the coating was flaking or coming off, or appeared to be damaged at all. Only a couple bolts on the leaf springs were slightly rusty. In all fairness, my truck had only seem Texas rain, and sand/salt/snow a few times over the winter. I've owned it since last July. Silverado LT Crew Cab Z71 4x4 with a build date of 5/13.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Dealer just put a 6 inch lift on a lot silverado crew. The edges of the front suspension and rear well wheel edges we're rust coloured. Looked like azz

Posted (edited)

Unless you can see it without crawling under the truck, I fail to see an issue. I raise GM trucks of all ages everyday. They all have rust on the frames, differentials, drive shafts etc. Never seen one rust through and I'm in salt country. To me its just cosmetic.

Edited by tbarn
Posted

The wax coating is sold by GM parts under part number 12346501. It is an excellent match to the OEM applied stuff.

Posted

took my moms truck in today to have them look at this issue was told that it was normal but they will fix it my truck is also having the same issue

heres pics of my 2014 crew cab 5000 miles next 2 pics are of my moms 2013 crew cab only 6000 miles and the last two are my brother 2012 ext cab with 13000 miles his looks almost brand new besides the one spot on the driver side

4f2329e4-a65c-471b-a0c0-75b62e5e7aef_zps526cd867-6715-48a9-a339-155303f40e90_zpsd73cdad8-1a91-4059-a24a-4333389e4307_zpsed1a9b9c-982d-45ce-9665-6d11a1dc3643_zpsb8f5d7db-cc69-4bee-8bfc-2493baf67a0a_zps

Posted

after reading this post i checked the frame rails on my 5000 mile 2014 standard cab 4x4 silverado work truck. yes, i have rust spots where the wax is peeling off. looks terrible and i doubt the frame outlives the truck. but what really has me worried are the emergency brake cables rubbing on a frame clip. obviously GM knows about it because my truck has rubber sleeves over the cables where they rub the clip. you'd think they'd move the clip, re-route the cables or hey, better yet, move the wire hanger they installed about 6-8 inches aft of the clip. i am thinking that is what i am going to do. gm - fail. i have a couple gallons of LPS and i will foam brush some of it on the rust. who ever thought up this wax stuff needs his head examined.

Posted (edited)

GM in general needs their head examined. I have 19k miles. Mine are not spots, they are sections. It's pretty bad to say the least for a 9 month old truck. Probably the worst on this forum due to an early owner and in a winter / salt area.

 

I wish I would have kept my avalanche... Just frustrating dealing with piss poor products at the price these things go for.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Edited by Trackermi
Posted

question for GM, will this wax undercoat ever set up or dry? if not, is there anything that can be done to it, sprayed on/over it to seal it? i read on a previous post GM is clear coating the wax undercoat on some models. any chance i could have my truck done too?

Posted

There is a "bullitin" at the dealers for the fix. Mine is going in today 5/19/14, to be fixed.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

do you know what the bulletin from the dealership addresses? is it to "fix" the rust areas or overcoat the forever sticky wax undercoating?

can anyone share their DIY repair/cover ideas/solutions? thanks in advance.

Posted

threre is 2

 

#PI0564D: Wax Coating on Frame Peeling, Metal Shows Corrosion/Rusting

- (Sep 5, 2013)

Subject: Wax Coating on Frame Peeling, Metal Shows Corrosion/Rusting

Models: 2011-2014 Cadillac Escalade Models

2011-2014 Chevrolet Avalanche, Express, Silverado (All Series), Suburban, Tahoe

2011-2014 GMC Savana, Sierra (All Series), Yukon, Yukon XL

 

 

 

 

#14002A: Service Update for Inventory and Customer

Vehicles - Underbody Appearance - Expires with Base

Warranty - (Feb 10, 2014)

Subject: 14002A – Service Update for Inventory and Customer Vehicles —

Underbody Appearance – Expires with Base Warranty

Models: 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2014 GMC Sierra 1500

This bulletin has been revised to increase the allowable per vehicle “Net Item” amount for

the Daubert Nox-Rust® and Lloyds Kryptonite Metal Treatment®.

This service update includes vehicles in dealer inventory and customer vehicles that return to

the dealership for any reason. This bulletin will expire at the end of the involved vehicle's

New Vehicle Limited Warranty period.

Purpose

This bulletin provides a service procedure to inspect and, if necessary, repair the appearance of

underbody components on certain 2014 model year Chevrolet Silverado 1500 and GMC Sierra

1500 vehicles that may not meet GM appearance requirements for new vehicles. These vehicles

may exhibit signs of premature surface degradation on certain underbody components.

 

 

Posted

do you know what the bulletin from the dealership addresses? is it to "fix" the rust areas or overcoat the forever sticky wax undercoating?

can anyone share their DIY repair/cover ideas/solutions? thanks in advance.

 

I had a couple of spots that were beginning to peel on my truck. I removed the loose wax, fully cleaned the areas, and applied the same stuff, but in an areosol can, GM part number 12346501. It was an almost perfect match.

Posted

Yep, I am going to have to take my truck in for this repair. I take it will take 2-3 days to complete. Add paint repair to the insider driver's door that bubbled up and is exposing the primer. Guess I will be driving a rental for about a week. The sad thing is that I have to drive 160 miles to get this repaired. The good news is that I will be in a city where the repairs can be done for a couple of weeks. The scary part is that they have to remove the bed and other parts in order to make this repair.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 479 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...