Jump to content

Post your 2014+ wheel/tire set-up

BlueWrapper
 Share

Recommended Posts

Rock1500 Senior Enthusiast

Rock1500

Posted
Posted

Thanks everyone for your input. I currently have 3.43 gears in my truck and was looking to get 33 inch tires. Tops maybe 35 inch but I doubt it since I don't want to lift it that high. I will take this into consideration.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

  • Replies 5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Full Lock
Full Lock

I'm in... Man I need some new pics if rain would stop messing up my truck ha   305/65 18x9.-12  

DLS-001
DLS-001

Mounted!     18-inch Method Mesh wheels, 275/70/18 BFG All Terrain tires, and a 2.5-inch RC level (front only). Zero rubbing, zero road noise, nice traction on and off road, and no wobbly street

daowens
daowens

Fuel Maverick 20x9 +20 Nitto Trail Grappler 295/55R20 Rough Country 2.5" Leveling Kit No rubbing or trimming        

Posted Images

seansharley Enthusiast

seansharley

Posted
Posted

Thanks everyone for your input. I currently have 3.43 gears in my truck and was looking to get 33 inch tires. Tops maybe 35 inch but I doubt it since I don't want to lift it that high. I will take this into consideration.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

A lot of GM trucks have been coming with 3.42 gears for over 20 years. I have 3.42's and have 305/55/20 (33x12.2) the taller tires change the gearing to around 3.29, you would need to go back to a 3.56 to get it back to stock rpm, etc... Where most people notice the change is going to a 35" tall tire over stock which drops you even lower, this causes lower rpm at higher speeds, "bogging" the truck, causing it to downshift more than previous. I thing a 35" tire you would offset this with a 3.73 gear, to get back to "stock" 3.42 range performance. You also need to take into consideration more wind resistance, rolling resistance, heavier wheels/tires, so adding more gear, say 4.10 would help more.

15greenz71 Enthusiast

15greenz71

Posted
Posted

A lot of GM trucks have been coming with 3.42 gears for over 20 years. I have 3.42's and have 305/55/20 (33x12.2) the taller tires change the gearing to around 3.29, you would need to go back to a 3.56 to get it back to stock rpm, etc... Where most people notice the change is going to a 35" tall tire over stock which drops you even lower, this causes lower rpm at higher speeds, "bogging" the truck, causing it to downshift more than previous. I thing a 35" tire you would offset this with a 3.73 gear, to get back to "stock" 3.42 range performance. You also need to take into consideration more wind resistance, rolling resistance, heavier wheels/tires, so adding more gear, say 4.10 would help more.

I disagree. Just installed a 4 inch bds lift with 285/65/20 bfg KO2's. That's a 34.5x11.5 tire. I have 3.08 gears. Yes, the engine runs at slightly lower rpms at higher speeds, but the tranny doesnt shift any more than stock. The main difference is accelerating from zero. I'm getting 18 mpg highway now and was getting 21 mpg stock.post-156672-146032998585_thumb.jpg

 

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

post-156672-146032998585_thumb.jpg

post-156672-146032998585_thumb.jpg

post-156672-146032998585_thumb.jpg

seansharley Enthusiast

seansharley

Posted
Posted

I disagree. Just installed a 4 inch bds lift with 285/65/20 bfg KO2's. That's a 34.5x11.5 tire. I have 3.08 gears. Yes, the engine runs at slightly lower rpms at higher speeds, but the tranny doesnt shift any more than stock. The main difference is accelerating from zero. I'm getting 18 mpg highway now and was getting 21 mpg stock. 0330161709-1.jpg

 

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

Hmmmm. I have a 4" lift with 305/55/20, and 3.42 gears, highway speeds here are around 80mph, my truck seems to kick down more going over bridges than it did before.

Nice ass truck, btw

Shiloh74 Enthusiast

Shiloh74

Posted
Posted
Mine rub pretty bad at full lock on the inside rears. I took the lower valance off too. Fuel Beast 20x10 -18 offset. 305/55 Toyo Open Country AT Xtreme

 

IMG_5462_zpskki5t6zg.jpg

 

So, what's the zip tie/washer/magical mod that everyone keeps talking about. Haven't seen a thread about it.[/quote

 

Does that offset make the tires stick out past the fenders? Here in PA we cant have the tread out past the fender and I dont want to buy flares, thanks

thechainsmoker New Member

thechainsmoker

Posted
Posted (edited)

2014 Chevy Silverado regular cab long bed WT2 with a 2"level, 17" Pro Comp Xtreme wheels -6 offset with 285/70R17 Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ.

post-156882-0-37577800-1460359452_thumb.jpeg

post-156882-0-37577800-1460359452_thumb.jpeg

post-156882-0-37577800-1460359452_thumb.jpeg

post-156882-0-37577800-1460359452_thumb.jpeg

Edited by thechainsmoker
  • Like 1
scott19677 Senior Enthusiast

scott19677

Posted
Posted

Looks great. I really like that a lot of guys are going 17s and big tires. 22s have no reason on a truck. A "real" truck that is. haha

  • Like 1
BassOverflow Enthusiast

BassOverflow

Posted
Posted
Mine rub pretty bad at full lock on the inside rears. I took the lower valance off too. Fuel Beast 20x10 -18 offset. 305/55 Toyo Open Country AT Xtreme

 

IMG_5462_zpskki5t6zg.jpg

 

So, what's the zip tie/washer/magical mod that everyone keeps talking about. Haven't seen a thread about it.[/quote

 

Does that offset make the tires stick out past the fenders? Here in PA we cant have the tread out past the fender and I dont want to buy flares, thanks

 

Yes, they do stick out.

D78968DB-44C7-4BCF-8721-B2D487103D55_zps

BowtieTJ Enthusiast

BowtieTJ

Posted
Posted

2.5" RC Leveling Kit and 275/65R20 Goodyear Duratracs. The tires rubbed just slightly on the fender liner, a couple zip ties solved that. Thx Mr. Drag Sledder for the tips.

 

 

IMAG01561_zpsf35deb98.jpg

Did you remove stock rear blocks and add 2" blocks from RC? How often do you tow a trailer and if so, do you notice a difference in truck handling?

BowtieTJ Enthusiast

BowtieTJ

Posted
Posted

Here you go. Top is before tires, bottom is after.

 

74c98caae1fb35014819f21a6f271a16.jpg

a0e07650608c5a0a9d25441cb6c7368a.jpg

Kerr very nice looking truck. What's the level on it in the front and did you replace the rear block? What's the difference in these tires vs 305 55 20? Thanks

Pezman38 Enthusiast

Pezman38

Posted
Posted

Did you remove stock rear blocks and add 2" blocks from RC? How often do you tow a trailer and if so, do you notice a difference in truck handling?

 

Yes the stock rear blocks were removed and the 2" blocks from RC went in. I trailer all the time a duck boat and a Ranger fishing boat. My Ranger is a multispecies rig weighing around 5,000lbs and causes the rear to sag. It still tows fine, but you can tell you are riding high in the front. I put in Air Lift 5000 series air bags and run them at 20psi, levels everything out and tows great.

Kerrslight Enthusiast

Kerrslight

Posted
Posted

Kerr very nice looking truck. What's the level on it in the front and did you replace the rear block? What's the difference in these tires vs 305 55 20? Thanks

 

Thanks man.

 

Front 2.5" level and 2.5" block in the rear. 295's are just a tad narrower than the 305's. The difference is minimal and barely noticeable, but enough to prevent me from rubbing. I do still rub, but only at full lock in reverse. The 305's would've probably required trimming.

abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

 

Thanks man.

 

Front 2.5" level and 2.5" block in the rear. 295's are just a tad narrower than the 305's. The difference is minimal and barely noticeable, but enough to prevent me from rubbing. I do still rub, but only at full lock in reverse. The 305's would've probably required trimming.

The 295's filled the wheel wells in just right.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • William Aldrich
      Bent valve in 2025 GMC Canyon Denali - Requires engine swap at 14K miles

      By William Aldrich · Posted

      NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • Silver Yeti
      Poll: Does your truck have the rear window leak?

      By Silver Yeti · Posted

      That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
    • Jay-22-2500
      2024 Silverado 2500 HD with the 6.6 Gas (L8T) Engine

      By Jay-22-2500 · Posted

      I bought a used 2022 2500hd with 6.6L in February. In March took a 2200 mile trip towing our 6500 lb trailer. Changed the oil day before leaving and when we were arriving at our 1st destination, low oil light came on (roughly 1000 miles) it was 2 qts low. Now it towed like a dream, no issue there, and we did go through the mountains of TN, but still, 2 qts! Luckily I did purchase an extended warranty. Brought it to the dealership in April, oil change and consumption test. Brought it back last week, 1300 miles, no towing, and no oil showing on the dipstick. GM is reccomending a new engine (cheaper than them rebuilding), we'll see if the warranty company comes through. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      T3's and Ibuprofen. I do have a cryotherapy unit (ice machine) and a lift chair that will allow me to raise my legs above my heart.  There are topicals that I can use once the wound is fully healed.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...