Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Here's what I did. I wanted mine to work in both positions, come on in reverse and with the switch the back up lights would light.

So all I needed was a wire that would fit and not fall out. It's a paper clip with a piece of shrink tube on it bent in a "U" so you can push it in there.

Guys were having trouble with the diode because the wire is too thin, you only need about a half an inch of wire exposed.

 

As far as it being dark out for them to come on with the fob...that's true...or you could just cover the light sensor in the middle of the dash.

 

I put some bright led's in the step too.

 

 

bcm jumper bench.JPG

bcm jumper.JPG

bu lights on rear truck.JPG

bu lights on step.JPG

  • Like 2
  • 5 months later...
Posted

Good Day all, 

 

I just did this mod and noticed that my radio stayed on after locking my doors. I also noticed the cargo light indicator on the switch was on as well. It wasn't until I opened and closed my drivers door that the radio shutoff. Any ideas? 

Posted

I noticed the same thing as well one day. Did the same thing and haven’t noticed it since.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
32 minutes ago, Neallynein said:

I noticed the same thing as well one day. Did the same thing and haven’t noticed it since.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

38 minutes ago, Morenar said:

Good Day all, 

 

I just did this mod and noticed that my radio stayed on after locking my doors. I also noticed the cargo light indicator on the switch was on as well. It wasn't until I opened and closed my drivers door that the radio shutoff. Any ideas? 

 

Never noticed the radio staying on, but I do know that the cargo light switch indicator will come on in Reverse.  I did the diode mode for cargo with reverse, and my son noticed the indicator was on one day shortly after doing the mod.

Posted
Here's what I did. I wanted mine to work in both positions, come on in reverse and with the switch the back up lights would light.
So all I needed was a wire that would fit and not fall out. It's a paper clip with a piece of shrink tube on it bent in a "U" so you can push it in there.
Guys were having trouble with the diode because the wire is too thin, you only need about a half an inch of wire exposed.
 
As far as it being dark out for them to come on with the fob...that's true...or you could just cover the light sensor in the middle of the dash.
 
I put some bright led's in the step too.
 
 
5b26cfbdc0edd_bcmjumperbench.JPG.cf4dea67959dcab30a1ec439d399ab21.JPG
5b26cfcdcbfdb_bcmjumper.JPG.914ad946bac7e85313c095e1001e40b2.JPG
5b26cfe23d094_bulightsonreartruck.JPG.8158ad950446af215413527e2d21b604.JPG
5b26cff829445_bulightsonstep.JPG.d0b9a9a6aec9ff29ba2a34c7e938faf6.JPG

How is this method working so far? I like the way you did it so seeing if it still works just as good a few months later
Posted
Good Day all, 
 
I just did this mod and noticed that my radio stayed on after locking my doors. I also noticed the cargo light indicator on the switch was on as well. It wasn't until I opened and closed my drivers door that the radio shutoff. Any ideas? 

One day my reverse lights wouldn’t go off, I had to take the thing out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
15 hours ago, goeb34 said:


How is this method working so far? I like the way you did it so seeing if it still works just as good a few months later

I had this on my 2015 GMC Sierra for 22 months, never had an issue. For the jumper I used a piece of thermostat wire. As a matter of fact I took the wire out when I trade in my 15 for a 2018 GMC Sierra and installed it on that one. Working perfectly currently.

Posted

I finally did this mod last week, used diodes I bought from eBay. Love it, huge difference.

Posted

Something I just noticed today, is while in motion if you put the drive selector in neutral and turn on the cargo light my backup camera comes on. It will also do it with the drive selector in Park, and the engine running.

 

 

IMG_20181208_144214.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Confused 1
Posted

Hmm.  Will have to try this.  Could Grjfef have wired something wrong?  

 

Posted
On 12/7/2018 at 7:37 AM, Deadpoollane said:


One day my reverse lights wouldn’t go off, I had to take the thing out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

probably because you dont have a diod in the mix there. just strait wire.

Posted
On 12/6/2018 at 5:10 PM, Neallynein said:

I noticed the same thing as well one day. Did the same thing and haven’t noticed it since.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just did it again today. I happen to hop into the passenger seat today and turned on the ignition to refresh my SiriusXM radio. I then turned the car off and closed and lock the passenger door and the radio continued to play. Wasn't till I opened the drivers door and that it turned off. 

Posted
probably because you dont have a diod in the mix there. just strait wire.

 

I had a diode, even after hitting the button over and over it wouldn’t go off.

 

Tried locking and unlocking and the lights just wouldn’t go off

 

Not worth killing the battery if i didn’t notice it

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 452 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...