Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
So....any progress on that pigtail? [emoji4]

You’re gonna have to remind me again. LOL. Male 2.8 terminal for the X201 Connector/Pin 41 to Female terminal for the X51L Fuse Panel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
2 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


You’re gonna have to remind me again. LOL. Male 2.8 terminal for the X201 Connector/Pin 41 to Female terminal for the X51L Fuse Panel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Heck...I don't know :)

 

You're the mod/wiring expert.

 

I'm just giving ya a hard time. But I would take a harnass if you ever build one

  • Like 1
Posted

Well, I got it done.  I now have a heated wheel!  It took a couple hours though.  One tip for anyone still working on this, raise the front so the tires are just off the ground.  Makes turning the wheel for airbag removal much easier.

  • Like 1
Posted
Well, I got it done.  I now have a heated wheel!  It took a couple hours though.  One tip for anyone still working on this, raise the front so the tires are just off the ground.  Makes turning the wheel for airbag removal much easier.

Great tip! When I did mine, I said “how the heck do you turn the wheel if the battery is disconnected”. Lol. Reminded me of the non-Power steering days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I love my heated steering wheel and seats, my heated and A/C seats work fast in my truck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you to everyone who have contributed in this thread! All of the info really helped with the project. I'd like to mention my successful install.

 

2015 Silverado Z71 LT. I have power foot pedals. I was lucky and had the female connector port already under the console and it was hot. Everything was plug and play for me. Heated steering wheel, lights and all functions work! 

 

Part numbers:

clock spring: 23381964

steering wheel: 84222909

 

I had some trouble fishing the clock spring wires out, so please be patient. It also made it easier that I have snap ring pliers as well.

 

Since your battery is disconnected, please note that you will need to put some muscle in when cranking the steering wheel to each side. I just took my e-brake off and allowed the truck to roll a little (I was parked on a slope) when turning the wheels. 

 

Overall, the job was a lot harder than I anticipated but still only look about 1.5 hours.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, a_salazar08 said:

Thank you to everyone who have contributed in this thread! All of the info really helped with the project. I'd like to mention my successful install.

 

2015 Silverado Z71 LT. I have power foot pedals. I was lucky and had the female connector port already under the console and it was hot. Everything was plug and play for me. Heated steering wheel, lights and all functions work! 

 

Part numbers:

clock spring: 23381964

steering wheel: 84222909

 

I had some trouble fishing the clock spring wires out, so please be patient. It also made it easier that I have snap ring pliers as well.

 

Since your battery is disconnected, please note that you will need to put some muscle in when cranking the steering wheel to each side. I just took my e-brake off and allowed the truck to roll a little (I was parked on a slope) when turning the wheels. 

 

Overall, the job was a lot harder than I anticipated but still only look about 1.5 hours.

 

 

Right?  That clockspring plug up around the dash was a pita to get to. 

Posted

I tied a string to the old one before I pulled it out.  Tied the string to the new one and pulled it back through.  Still took a bit of wiggling to get it into place, that made it easier.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/4/2018 at 2:15 PM, a_salazar08 said:

Part numbers:

clock spring: 23381964

steering wheel: 84222909

Thanks.  Just updating for others -- the part number above is for the Black wheel.

For Cocoa with heat (but no collision) the part number is 84053918.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/29/2018 at 9:42 AM, pgamboa said:

Will be working on a Pigtail harness for this run. I may have two versions.

 

Version 1 - If you already have the 2-Pin mate but it’s not landed into the X201 connector and X51L Fuse, it’ll be a single wire with terminals on each end.

 

Version 2 - If you do not have the 2-Pin mate at all (down in the steering column) then a 2-Pin Connector (to mate up with the clock spring end) and turns to the X51L Fuse Block.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

@pgamboa were you ever able to work on building some harnesses?  Got down to below zero again here.....I'm ready for some heat on my fingertips :)

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
 
[mention=159655]pgamboa[/mention] were you ever able to work on building some harnesses?  Got down to below zero again here.....I'm ready for some heat on my fingertips [emoji4]
 
 

Terminals for this should be arriving tomorrow :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
41 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


Terminals for this should be arriving tomorrow :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome.  Let me know details and I will get you some $$$

  • Like 1
Posted
Awesome.  Let me know details and I will get you some $$$

PM me because I WILL forget. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Quick question on parts:

 

I placed an order last night for a heated steering wheel (part #84222909) and associated clock spring (23381964) on cheapestgmparts.com (first time ever using that site). Got an email response back today informing me those parts are not correct for my VIN # (I assume my VIN shows that I don't currently have heated steering). Those are the parts I want though, correct, and they will work? 


The website is suggesting part #'s 23278606 / 23381963, which are the components with no heat (which I assume is what I currently have in the truck).

 

On a side note, why is the clock spring with heat ($48.81) so much cheaper than the clock spring without it ($100.02)? 

 

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...