AUX switch install

Jim Fleck · October 8, 2019

It's Possible, but not for everyone.

1. Need to source parts.

2. Take apart the dash.

3. Install/ pull new wiring.

It's mostly about time.

I have most my wire installed and a nice switch with 4 AUX switches. 6 months on and off as I find time to mess with it.

Hope that helps.

rbrjr1 · October 21, 2019

Got my AUX1-4 switch coming in the mail this week.

it should be a direct replacement for my Z71 (which came with TC/Cargo Light/Hill Decent)..

Edited January 7, 2020 by rbrjr1

catpartsman · October 22, 2019

So my 15 Sierra 1500 SLT has the pedals, tc, lane departure parking sensors and cargo lights switches. Would this mean by chance it’s got everything needed other than the aux switches? I’m not good with wiring (color blind) and would hope for something that’s plug and play then just run the power wires to my lights I want to add.

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Vuk · November 19, 2019

My truck has the switch block 23145162 (Pedals / TC / Dome Light / Park Assist / HDC). Does this mean that if I buy 23145202 (Pedals / TC / Cargo Light / Park Assist / LDW / HDC / Exhaust Brake), everything will continue working but I will be able to use the LDW and Exhaust Brake switches for accessories? I am OK with hardwiring into the switch block.

Thank you!

Vuk · December 16, 2019

On 11/19/2019 at 11:06 AM, Vuk said:

My truck has the switch block 23145162 (Pedals / TC / Dome Light / Park Assist / HDC). Does this mean that if I buy 23145202 (Pedals / TC / Cargo Light / Park Assist / LDW / HDC / Exhaust Brake), everything will continue working but I will be able to use the LDW and Exhaust Brake switches for accessories? I am OK with hardwiring into the switch block.

Thank you!

OK, so the answer to this questions is Yes, the pinout of the switchboard should be the same.

I modified the switches to separate the LED signals for AUX 1/2 (those are LDW and Exhaust Brake) because I want those accessories powered from the auxiliary battery and available all the time - hence I want the signals to show if they are on regardless of the lighting of the rest of the dashboard. The next step for me is to see if I can use any of the wiring on the truck or need to run everything for these two switches again. Note again that you only need to do this if you want the AUX 1/2 indicators to have a power supply separate from the rest of the instrument cluster.

Note: Yes, these are momentary circuits so I will add a latching relay circuit per switch and post about the remaining of the process.

Edited January 3, 2020 by Vuk
Added clarification

Nobody-117 · December 28, 2019

So in my Chevy 1500 has 23145162 (Pedals / TC / Dome Light / Park Assist / HDC) I am just wondering what modifications I would need to do in order to keep the functionality of my existing switches but also get two auxiliary switches. Any help is appreciated.

Vuk · December 28, 2019

I am in the process of doing that exact same thing and I want those accessories available always (regardless of the key position), and supplied from the AUX battery. First of all you need to "criss-cross" two switch blocks like myself above. Additionally, since LDW and Exhaust Brake switches (or, your new AUX1/AUX2) are pushbuttons, both of us will need to add latching relays to be able to toggle accessories from those switches. I have modified the switch block as above to be able to have the indicators light up regardless of the key position, and will soon wrap this up with two latching relay circuits. I have been working on other things so couldn't finish this, but will follow up on my previous post when I am done.

Nobody-117 · December 30, 2019

On 12/28/2019 at 4:08 PM, Vuk said:

I am in the process of doing that exact same thing and I want those accessories available always (regardless of the key position), and supplied from the AUX battery. First of all you need to "criss-cross" two switch blocks like myself above. Additionally, since LDW and Exhaust Brake switches (or, your new AUX1/AUX2) are pushbuttons, both of us will need to add latching relays to be able to toggle accessories from those switches. I have modified the switch block as above to be able to have the indicators light up regardless of the key position, and will soon wrap this up with two latching relay circuits. I have been working on other things so couldn't finish this, but will follow up on my previous post when I am done.

Yeah I read some of your earlier posts on this thread. Unfortunately I have no experience with adding relays so I wouldn't know what to do.

Vuk · December 30, 2019

As far as I understand, if you don't have AUX switches out of the factory, you can't get away without playing around with wiring. You might find it easier to use the HomeLink buttons on the ceiling - someone posted about a kit for those a long time ago so that link is broken; not sure if those kits are still out there.

Vuk · January 1, 2020

Went on to replace the switch assembly today and couldn't pull the old switches out - do the climate controls need to be removed? I was afraid of braking something.

Contra · January 2, 2020

This is interesting, I may do this with my 2017.

Jim Fleck · January 2, 2020

Yes. It's been about a year since I replaced my switches.

1-Trim bezel snaps out of the clips.

2-Then the display comes out next (4-6 screws).

3-Temprature controls.

Remove power lead clips carefully so you can set the items out of the way.

4-Now you can get to the screws on the switch.

Don't rush, take your time.

Jim

Vuk · January 2, 2020

25 minutes ago, Jim Fleck said:

Yes. It's been about a year since I replaced my switches.

1-Trim bezel snaps out of the clips.

2-Then the display comes out next (4-6 screws).

3-Temprature controls.

Remove power lead clips carefully so you can set the items out of the way.

4-Now you can get to the screws on the switch.

Don't rush, take your time.

Jim

Thank you!

Vuk · January 4, 2020

I got the switches installed; before:

after:

These terminated leads are required for X1 connector on the switches, but you can also just tap into existing wiring:

Tapping into X1:

Tapping into X2:

All together doesn't look any different than factory wiring:

That's it for today. On the dangling end I have 1x RED wire for AUX1/2 LED indicators (positive), 2x WHITE wires for AUX1/2 LED indicators (ground), 2x BLUE wires for AUX1/2 push-buttons (ground). Notice that the red wire is hooked up to an additional pin (cavity 10) - this is related to my mod (from previous posts) which allows me to control AUX1/2 indicators separately from the lights of the rest of the instrument cluster. I will soon post with pics of relay latching/toggling boards needed to make AUX1/2 push-buttons function as switches.

Edited January 4, 2020 by Vuk

rbrjr1 · January 7, 2020

On 12/11/2017 at 3:12 AM, tundaman said:

I just finished my install today based off of install by @tha_lildude.

First of all my truck is a 2016 3500HD Duramax with Work Truck convenience package so I know this is the wrong sub-forum I'm posting in but it might still be similar for other trucks.

Parts list for my application:

AUX switch for LML Duramax. #23145163 [TC / Cargo / Exhaust Brake / AUX 1 /AUX 2 / AUX 3 / AUX 4]

Wire 4 pieces #19301761 (load carrying) (big wire)

Wire 8 pieces #19301767 (control) (small wire)

GMUpfitter says to use Connector #19328970 and wire #13578892 and wire #1357583. My finds are you don't need these part number unless you intend to control the loads that are installed inside the cab of the truck. If all your loads are going to be installed outside (lights, air compressor, beacons) then save some money.

I read the 2016 SIlverado/Sierra Electrical book and found the correct wire/terminals. I also found where each wire is supposed to go.

Okay, from the top.

S48A is the block number for the switch panel located below the AC controls.

X61A is the block located in the driver foot well by the parking brake.

X50A is the underhood fuse block located on driver side behind the battery.

My truck had the wiring between S48A to X61A. You can verify the wires are there by removing cover for X61A and checking connector X5. X5 is white connector on bottom right.

The pins you are looking for are:

10 RED/WH

17 YELLOW/WH

11 L-GREEN/WH

23 WH/D-BLUE

After you verify those are there I believe the next step is where the 9L7 rpo code changes things.

My truck didn't come with the wires between X61A connector X1 and X50A connectors X3, X5. The control wire I mentioned above will go here. #19301767.

X61A connector X1 is located on the back of X61A. Remove 3 10mm nuts and turn it over. Connector X1 is the lower of the 2 on the back. You need 4 pieces of #19301767 wire.

Those wires need to be inserted into the X1 connector.

Remove X1 connector from X61A block.

Remove terminal hold down cover (blue thing opposite wires)( prevents terminals from pulling out and being put in.)

Insert wire to :

21 RED/WH

34 YELLOW/WH

30 L-GREEN/WH

38 WH/D-BLUE

reinstall terminal hold down cover for X1.

Next you need to verify you have the right fuse block X50A. According to tha_lildude, his truck didn't have the male terminals under his fuse block. When I pulled my fuse block I found out that I have all the proper male terminals under the fuse block. I am not sure what model options or trim levels will affect this but my truck is a 3500HD WT Duramax. My X50A underhood fuse block part number is #23285571.

Tip: remove the HORN fuse so you can reinstall the fuse block in peace, the truck alarm will sound when you plug the fuse block back in.

Remove X50A fuse block by flipping the 2 levers and pulling straight up.

Remove 13mm nut from battery cable to fuse block.

X4 is the connector in the middle toward rear of truck.(where the battery cable went). X3 should be the connector closest to driver fender toward rear of truck. When looking at fuse block side or connector side you need to remember what position you are looking at it from. Need to think upside down.

On the X4 section of the fuse block you need to see if the following male terminals are there. The fuse block has letters and numbers cast into the plastic so it should be easy.

G2 big terminal

L6 small terminal

K5 big terminal

L1 small terminal

K2 big terminal

On the X3 section of the fuse block you need to see if the following male terminals are there

M5 small terminal

M7 big terminal

F3 small terminal

Once you check the fuse block side you can install the wires that will connect to X61A.

Press tab and slide X4 connector out. Remove back cover. Remove blue terminal hold down cover. The back of the connector also has numbers and letters cast into the plastic but they're small so bring a magnifying glass or something. You need 3 pieces of #19301761 wire and 2 pieces of #19301767 wire. Insert the wire into the following:

G2 GREY/BLACK (big wire)

L6 L-GREEN/WH (small wire)

K5 YELLOW/BROWN (big wire)

L1 WH/D-BLUE (small wire)

K5 RED/L-GREEN (big wire)

Reassemble X4 connector and reinstall.

Press tab and slide X3 connector out. Remove back cover. Remove blue terminal hold down cover. The back of the connector also has numbers and letters cast into the plastic but they're small so bring a magnifying glass or something. You need 1 pieces of #19301761 wire and 2 pieces of #19301767 wire. Insert the wire into the following:

M5 RED/WH (small wire)

M7 D-BLUE (big wire)

F3 YELLOW/WH (small wire)

Reassemble X3 connector and reinstall.

Take 4 small wires coming from X50A fuse block and match them with the 4 small wires from X61A

4 big wires coming from X50A will go to power your loads.

Wiring diagrams are from 2016 Silverado/Sierra Electrical Manual found on GM Upfitters. Important pages are

530

538

541

576

577

Also UI Bulletin #110L from Gm Upfitters is helpful.