Leveling, Bilsteins vs. Lift Kit

jimlem · January 23, 2015

I understand how the new Bilsteins raise the front end but I also read they pre-load the spring and make it feel very stiff. Can someone explain the difference between the leveling kits that use a donut shaped spacer at the top versus the ones that use a "C" shaped spacer at the bottom? I understand how they are installed but is there an advantage of one type over the other? Can the amount of lift be spread out with half at top and half at bottom? Does one or the other cause less problems with front suspension angles? Is there any combination of all 3 types together? Any help appreciated.

Spurshot · January 23, 2015

The lower spacer is limited in thickness by the clearance/interference of the attaching bolt/nut with the axle (on 4wd trucks). Otherwise, there is no functional difference whether the spacer is on top of the coil over shock assembly or the bottom.

Bilsteins do not "pre-load" the spring any more than a stock shock assembly, when the truck is setting on the ground. It's a misconception. Think about it. Any stiffness increase from installing a Bilstein 5100 at its highest setting is from the increased angle of the A-arms which effectively reduce the mechanical leverage of the A-arm acting on the coil over assembly. A spacer will cause the same condition for the same lift.

Your biggest concern with "leveling" should be running into the limit of travel on the upper ball joint. That puts you into either limiting the lift or replacing the upper control arms with revised ball joint angles.

RadoRage · January 23, 2015

Here is a PDF from Bilstein explaining the differences between the adjustable shock and the spacer. It was helpful before I bought my 5100s.

http://www.bilsteinus.com/fileadmin/user_upload/user_upload_us/pdfs/Bil_LevShks_WebArticle.pdf

BlackZ71Silverado · January 23, 2015

The spacers should not cause you any issues with angles, as long as you keep it at a normal 2" lift. Some people do 3" of lift up front but anything after that, you would need to start making corrections for the angle changes in front end components.

Like stated above, there really is no difference in spacers, one goes on top and the other on bottom.

Adjustable shocks to add lift work well but you need to be careful with adjusting the shocks all the time. My advise would be find a setting and height you are happy with, have an alignment done, and stick with that setting.

Constantly raising/lowering your front end can get you into trouble. Each time you change height will cause an alignment issue and will make your front tires to wear. Each time you change the front end you should have an alignment done.

fondupot · January 23, 2015

The advantage of the Bilstein's is having the "leveling" kit adjustable right in the coil over. Plus Bilstein's are great shocks, so you are getting a double whammy if you run the Bilstein setup.

Personally, I would only ever run the Bilstein's if I wanted a leveling kit. Eventually when I upgrade the shocks in my truck, I will likely do those.

jimlem · January 23, 2015

Thanks to all for the info. RadoRage- thanks for the link. I already read it twice as well as saved it on my PC. I appreciate everyone's time and help.

jimlem · January 23, 2015

The lower spacer is limited in thickness by the clearance/interference of the attaching bolt/nut with the axle (on 4wd trucks). Otherwise, there is no functional difference whether the spacer is on top of the coil over shock assembly or the bottom.

Bilsteins do not "pre-load" the spring any more than a stock shock assembly, when the truck is setting on the ground. It's a misconception. Think about it. Any stiffness increase from installing a Bilstein 5100 at its highest setting is from the increased angle of the A-arms which effectively reduce the mechanical leverage of the A-arm acting on the coil over assembly. A spacer will cause the same condition for the same lift.

Your biggest concern with "leveling" should be running into the limit of travel on the upper ball joint. That puts you into either limiting the lift or replacing the upper control arms with revised ball joint angles.

I know you went all out on your truck. Do you have a number in mind of the safe amount of inches the front end can be leveled with out having to worry about damaging ball joints, UCAs and front end geometry?

SMiller · January 24, 2015

I know you went all out on your truck. Do you have a number in mind of the safe amount of inches the front end can be leveled with out having to worry about damaging ball joints, UCAs and front end geometry?

It has been proven that you can go 2 1/2in. anything after that is bad. Keep in mind that 2 1/2in. will make it look nose high and that adding a 2in. rear block will make it look rear end high.

I would install a 2in. level in front and nothing rear or a 2 1/2in. front with a 1 1/2in. rear block.

Bilstein leveling kit in the highest setting will just about give you 2in. and will look great will also having GREAT shocks! This is the best way to level, the shocks make a HUGE difference.

Spurshot · January 24, 2015

I know you went all out on your truck. Do you have a number in mind of the safe amount of inches the front end can be leveled with out having to worry about damaging ball joints, UCAs and front end geometry?

I think you'll get a lot of different opinions on this.

But I do believe everyone will agree on this: It's not the static height of the lifted/leveled truck that exceeds the limit of the ball joint angle, it's the unloaded (extended) suspension.

Since the shock is the limit stop for the suspension, that means that lift/level spacers also allow the suspension (A-arms) to extend a similar additional amount as the lift when unloaded.

I think this is why some people have a given lift that seems a lot and have no problems with upper ball joints and others have loose upper ball joints prematurely. Some people may be driving very nicely on the streets and never or rarely fully extend the suspension. Also, my theory is that it's not premature WEAR, but really the ball is hitting the limit of the slot and trying to pry out of the formed socket and actually bending it open. I believe that's why some guys (GMT900) were experiencing loose ball joints in very low mileage after level/lifting, and some were not, even with the same amount of level/lift.

The Bilstein addresses this over-extend issue by not changing the extend travel of the suspension. It simply changes the static height by raising the spring pad.

I know I'm going to get some flack here, but my opinion is that, given the way I use my truck, I would not and did not lift the suspension with spacers more than 1 1/2 inches (I had a 3/4" thick spacer in the bottom of the OEM Ranchos for a number of months before putting on the Kings). I'm just basing this on my gut after reading all the reports when I had my 2008 and everyone was leveling and quite a number were reporting loose upper ball joints, some after 20,000 miles, some after 30,000, 40,000, etc.. I put Bilstein 5100s on the 2008 almost before the license plates came and set them one ring up from 0 lift (5/8"?). My ball joints didn't indicate any looseness until over 100,000 miles. The GMT900 suspension is the identical suspension on my truck (steel control arms).

jeffsig · January 24, 2015

How's the ride on the Bilstein compared to stock?

chuckl1218 · January 24, 2015

In response to jeffsig...On my 2WD Silverado LTZ, much better. More controlled, less abrupt over railroad tracks, speed bumps and other road issues. My wife says she no longer feels like a "bobble head" doll.

Edited January 24, 2015 by chuckl1218

Whiskey Bent · January 24, 2015

What is everyone's thought about using the regular RC level kit. ( just the lower spacer) and also putting the billstiens on at a lower setting. And possibly adding a block in the back if needed per personal preferance on rake? Pro or cons?

Sicmab · January 25, 2015

What is everyone's thought about using the regular RC level kit. ( just the lower spacer) and also putting the billstiens on at a lower setting. And possibly adding a block in the back if needed per personal preferance on rake? Pro or cons?

Been looking for this as well ...

dcarl · January 26, 2015

I have a Zone 2" level kit with the Bilsteins 5100 Adjustable on the stock setting and it rides nice compared to the Ranchos that came on it. Still firm but not harsh. I'm considering taking out the Zone kit and reinstalling the Bilsteins at the max setting to see how it rides. Just not sure I want to do the work if I don't have to. When I had the truck aligned at Kauffman Tire, I opted for a 3 year guarantee.

Crooks · January 26, 2015

I have a Zone 2" level kit with the Bilsteins 5100 Adjustable on the stock setting and it rides nice compared to the Ranchos that came on it. Still firm but not harsh. I'm considering taking out the Zone kit and reinstalling the Bilsteins at the max setting to see how it rides. Just not sure I want to do the work if I don't have to. When I had the truck aligned at Kauffman Tire, I opted for a 3 year guarantee.

I want someone to do this before I buy my 5100. I will leave the bottom spacer if no one has