Jump to content

Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

tanner709 Enthusiast

tanner709

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, ESSGUY said:

thanks for the reply, i think i will set bilsteins at 3/4 in front, truck is not a daily driver and when it is used it will be either loaded with hunting equipment and dogs or towing 4 atv's.

Tandem axle? You'll have no issues

 Here's a better front shot with a decent load in the trailer (16.5' steel chassis tandem axle) there are 2 snowmobiles in the trailer at the time.

IMG_0759.JPG

  • Replies 2.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

Posted Images

ESSGUY Enthusiast

ESSGUY

Posted
Posted
46 minutes ago, tanner709 said:

Tandem axle? You'll have no issues

 Here's a better front shot with a decent load in the trailer (16.5' steel chassis tandem axle) there are 2 snowmobiles in the trailer at the time.

IMG_0759.JPG

yes, tandem axle aluminum. pulls nice and has good tongue weight.

Josh154 Enthusiast

Josh154

Posted
Posted

Wow.. hauling my 16’ enclosed on all stock suspension no leveling or drop I already sag.. I want to go to 5100s and level but would definitely need air bags. With the factory rake and my trailer hooked up I’m already a little lower in the back. 

ACFFCB34-F3A6-43A2-AF40-5ACB82A5B0D5.jpeg

Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted
I've seen them listed as available within the last few days so they must be out finally.
I'd be amazed, but I'll look before I order something this month. Thanks for the info.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted
I have seen they posted on their instgram account that the 6112 is available.
 
Doesn't show on their site, so ordered 5100 rears. I'm over them and can swap them quick. The fronts will wait for when I do all my front lights again, just make a weekend out of the front.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

aaronarf Enthusiast

aaronarf

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, wot_denali said:

I have seen they posted on their instgram account that the 6112 is available.

 

For the Tahoes...I don't see 1500 anywhere...

michigan2500hd Senior Enthusiast

michigan2500hd

Posted
Posted
Will 5100s help my back from sagging so bad with my trailer? 

The 5100 rears are just shocks. No lifting ability. I will tell you they help with towing quite a bit as far as the bucking and side to side bouncing. They may lift the truck 1/4" in the rear simply because they have a lot of gas pressure extending them.

If you want to solve your sagging rear when loaded and towing get a set of Roadmaster helper coils. They install quick and are adjustable for the weight you want.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Josh154 Enthusiast

Josh154

Posted
Posted

Even if they don’t lift I think I still want them. I’m coming from a 3/4 ton and my first time pulling the trailer I noticed a ton of what felt like chassis roll. So if they help with bounce, roll and sway I am sold. 

aaronarf Enthusiast

aaronarf

Posted
Posted (edited)
37 minutes ago, Josh154 said:

Even if they don’t lift I think I still want them. I’m coming from a 3/4 ton and my first time pulling the trailer I noticed a ton of what felt like chassis roll. So if they help with bounce, roll and sway I am sold. 

I think 5100s out back AND a sway bar will make you happy.

 

Check out the Helwig rear sway bar, it made a HUGE difference for me. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hel-7735

Edited by aaronarf
Korazu Enthusiast

Korazu

Posted
Posted

Okay, now that I've had my '17 for 6 months I am wanting my raised height that I had in my '15 or somewhat similar. I had the front of a 2.5" RC leveling kit, but switched out the rear blocks for 3" ones, as I was able to keep most if not all the factory rake on the truck.  I am looking to put Bilstein 5100's all-around this time to stay away from the spacers and wanted to know how much if any rake is had with that setup? Am I going to need to put in 2" blocks to raise the rear a little more over the 1.25" factory blocks? I also have Hellwig helper springs to help with towing the trailer.

 

TIA.

aaronarf Enthusiast

aaronarf

Posted
Posted
On 1/16/2018 at 10:40 PM, Korazu said:

Okay, now that I've had my '17 for 6 months I am wanting my raised height that I had in my '15 or somewhat similar. I had the front of a 2.5" RC leveling kit, but switched out the rear blocks for 3" ones, as I was able to keep most if not all the factory rake on the truck.  I am looking to put Bilstein 5100's all-around this time to stay away from the spacers and wanted to know how much if any rake is had with that setup? Am I going to need to put in 2" blocks to raise the rear a little more over the 1.25" factory blocks? I also have Hellwig helper springs to help with towing the trailer.

 

TIA.

I have a slight rake on my truck, Bilstein 5100s set on the highest lift and factory block in the rear.  It isn't excessive, 2" blocks would definitely give you a substantial rake, IMO.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 521 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...