Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
I just traded in my 2015 for this 2018. On my 15 I leveled the rear but on this one I want to level the front. My first choice was to do it using a spacer but I think I've decided to go with the Bilstein shocks instead. Where is the best place to buy them from? Would I be able to do just the fronts and the the rears later and how hard is the install? I've done suspension work on my Camaro but never on a truck, especially not a 4x4. Thanks
5b9af6869b54f_IMG_50802.thumb.JPG.8522494d400c54ef82c949e12ece9431.JPG

4wheelparts!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I had a local place put provide and install the fronts.  I got it back about an hour ago.  I ordered rears off Amazon for $72 each.  I can feel a difference in the front and the back bounces a bit more compared to front.  That's my seat of the pants feel for an 8 mile ride.  I'll run it like this til I get the 5100's for the rear.

Posted
I just traded in my 2015 for this 2018. On my 15 I leveled the rear but on this one I want to level the front. My first choice was to do it using a spacer but I think I've decided to go with the Bilstein shocks instead. Where is the best place to buy them from? Would I be able to do just the fronts and the the rears later and how hard is the install? I've done suspension work on my Camaro but never on a truck, especially not a 4x4. Thanks

5b9af6869b54f_IMG_50802.thumb.JPG.8522494d400c54ef82c949e12ece9431.JPG

 

Cheapest way would be with the Bilstein leveling 5100 shocks and then an alignment. I prefer using pro comp front 2.25” billet aluminum spacers and 1” in rear reason being you’re screwed if one of your leveling shocks goes out on you with larger tires, it has happened.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
You may be able to manage it with that combo. But anything more than 2.5in of lift will really mess up some parts. 
 
If you just want a better ride yet already have spacers. I'd check out the 4600s or use the 5100s at stock height.


4600 for stock
5100 for leveled


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Upgrading the Factory Rancho Shocks on a 3/4 ton 2015 Sierra. I don't see much as far as the class of vehicle listed on these changes are the shocks the same on a 1500 as a 2500? If I were to put bilstein's on a 3/4 ton what model would I be using? I have not researched this much I'm just watching the thread a little bit with some basic little questions. Thank you in advance for any response

 

Call 4wheelparts and ask them or go on Bilstein website. If you’re not lifted use 4600’s, I had 5100’s (same shocks just 5100’s are for leveled) on my 16 DMax too, great shocks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
 
Cheapest way would be with the Bilstein leveling 5100 shocks and then an alignment. I prefer using pro comp front 2.25” billet aluminum spacers and 1” in rear reason being you’re screwed if one of your leveling shocks goes out on you with larger tires, it has happened.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would say the odds of this happening are much lower than the odds of a dealer denying a warranty claim based on a leveling spacer. Personally I have a spacer, but I don't think this would be an issue except in a freak accident


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Just remember it is a process time and money to raise notches.

I would at least go to the second from bottom.

Posted
1 hour ago, TXGREEK said:

 

Call 4wheelparts and ask them or go on Bilstein website. If you’re not lifted use 4600’s, I had 5100’s (same shocks just 5100’s are for leveled) on my 16 DMax too, great shocks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you all for the input.  I do have a 2" level on the truck.  I will check into these shocks,   need a new set  ranchos  seem to be leaking oil or something 

Posted
Thank you all for the input.  I do have a 2" level on the truck.  I will check into these shocks,   need a new set  ranchos  seem to be leaking oil or something 

I got rid of my shocks at 7K miles and put on Bilstein 5100’s which you’ll love compared to that junk Rancho our trucks come with


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

4wheel parts have discount codes that bite into Amazon pricing.

At least at the time I was shopping.

I do not get paid by 4wheel parts for plugging them. Just giving my experience with the purchase to those in the market for 5100's

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,875 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...