Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
11 hours ago, truckmann said:

Funny how 4wheelparts everyday low price is still $13.50 higher than Amazon.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T367RUS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2TW9PAD7D7YND

 

I did the rear 5100's already and the fronts are on my list. Truck already has the RC spacers so I'm in debate on keeping them or not myself. 

I just compared pricing and it comes out cheaper through 4wheelparts using a 5% coupon. The sales tax is what makes the price higher through amazon. 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, 2k10CrewCab said:

I just compared pricing and it comes out cheaper through 4wheelparts using a 5% coupon. The sales tax is what makes the price higher through amazon. 

My experience exactly with 4 wheel parts. 

You can also be sure they will be new undamaged or refurbished units unlike stories I have

heard about some amazon purchases.

Posted
8 minutes ago, 2k10CrewCab said:

I just compared pricing and it comes out cheaper through 4wheelparts using a 5% coupon. The sales tax is what makes the price higher through amazon. 

I just did the same comparison and Amazon is still $24 cheaper on a pair after tax for me.  I would have to pay tax from either place here in OK. Tax was more for 4Wheelparts because there is a store in state. Really I was more making fun of their everyday low price statement when I can find them cheaper at other places. As for getting bad stuff from Amazon, I've never had an issue and if I did get something messed up it's easy to send it back.  

Posted
15 minutes ago, truckmann said:

I just did the same comparison and Amazon is still $24 cheaper on a pair after tax for me.  I would have to pay tax from either place here in OK. Tax was more for 4Wheelparts because there is a store in state. Really I was more making fun of their everyday low price statement when I can find them cheaper at other places. As for getting bad stuff from Amazon, I've never had an issue and if I did get something messed up it's easy to send it back.  

Ah ok. We have stores here in CA also but when I went to check out the tax was applied and then refunded so no sales tax. I’m in the same boat as you with Amazon, something is delivered defective and I send it back with the free shipping asap. 

Posted (edited)

Installed 5100's plus a 1/2" top strut spacer and 1" over rear blocks.  The ride is great, very happy.  So far I feel like this is one of those rare products that does what it says without compromise.  

IMG_7177.jpg

Edited by Leevon
Posted
9 minutes ago, Leevon said:

Installed 5100's plus a 1/2" top strut spacer and 1" over rear blocks.  The ride is great, very happy.  So far I feel like this is one of those rare products that does what it says without compromise.  

IMG_7177.jpg

Looks great, did you have to swap out upper control arms? I’ve been reading that trucks with the stamped steel UCA need to swap them out. Also, what size tire is that and any rubbing issues? 

Posted (edited)

Thank you! I plan to swap out my stamped uppers...have personally seen them fail on 2.5" level kits.  The alignment is spot on for now though.  275/70/18 BFG's no rubbing whatsoever even at stock height.  I did order some 1.75" spacer/adapters for looks, should be in this week I will get some real pics then.  

Edited by Leevon
Posted (edited)

Do you have any idea of what uppers you'll be going with and are you planning to keep the stock wheels? Looking forward to the pics with the spacers on. 

Edited by 2k10CrewCab
Posted

So I recently purchased a set of the 5100's (all four corners) for my 2018. The plan is to just go up to maybe the third setting up front and leave the rear stock. 

 

I chatted to one of the local shops, which specializes in lifts/etc. And they recommend that I level the front with a lower strut mount extension (the 2" rough country for example) and keep the Bilsteins at the stock setting. Therefore the spring isnt preloaded as much, and gives a much better ride.

 

Only issue, I'm thinking the 2" level night be too much. Really dont want any type of squat and still want a bit of a forward rake. 

 

Should mention I'm on stock wheels/tire size. 

Posted
9 hours ago, LoweredKlass said:

So I recently purchased a set of the 5100's (all four corners) for my 2018. The plan is to just go up to maybe the third setting up front and leave the rear stock. 

 

I chatted to one of the local shops, which specializes in lifts/etc. And they recommend that I level the front with a lower strut mount extension (the 2" rough country for example) and keep the Bilsteins at the stock setting. Therefore the spring isnt preloaded as much, and gives a much better ride.

 

Only issue, I'm thinking the 2" level night be too much. Really dont want any type of squat and still want a bit of a forward rake. 

 

Should mention I'm on stock wheels/tire size. 

This helps to explain the Bilstein lift vs preload (spacers)

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBpLKyaG9BE

  • Like 1
Posted

I suppose I should have asked, will the truck ride just as well on the stock setting as it would on the lifted levels? 

 

I just wondered if the lighter/lifted settings preload the springs more than on the stock setting? 

 

Seems I keep getting different opinions, so I'm second guessing everything lol

Posted
10 hours ago, LoweredKlass said:

I suppose I should have asked, will the truck ride just as well on the stock setting as it would on the lifted levels? 

 

I just wondered if the lighter/lifted settings preload the springs more than on the stock setting? 

 

Seems I keep getting different opinions, so I'm second guessing everything lol

I've been wondering the same thing. I currently have the RC spacer with the stock shocks and plan to do the fronts sometime soon. Debating if I should keep the spacer with the 5100s or not. I already replaced the rears. 

Posted

Went ahead and ordered my front shocks today. Ebay has a 15% off anything code. I ordered from this seller because they didn't charge me tax and shipping is free so my total was $163.17 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bilstein-24-238304-5100-Ride-Height-Adjustable-Shock-Absorber/221879155060?epid=217725717&hash=item33a9073974:g:qGEAAOSw2PtasubL&vxp=mtr 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/26/2018 at 10:38 AM, truckmann said:

I've been wondering the same thing. I currently have the RC spacer with the stock shocks and plan to do the fronts sometime soon. Debating if I should keep the spacer with the 5100s or not. I already replaced the rears. 

Just installed the 5100 all around on a 14 denali 2wd, boy what a difference! I had the 2.5 RC kit and replaced with a 2.5 strut spacer and 5100 at stock setting. Now the truck is leveled, i do have 1" more in the back that came with the rc 2.5 kit. Firmer ride not by much but trucks feels more planted and big bumps are felt less. hope this helps. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,028 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...