Jump to content

Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

JamesAT18 Enthusiast

JamesAT18

Posted
Posted

Installed everything myself. These fronts were a b***h. Removed UCA, steering, sway bar, just to fit. Ball Joint was a pain to separate from the knuckle. But it's beautiful.

Discount Tire price match walmart for a good deal on 295 55 20 

Rubs on full lock

 

5100s all around 

Tuck.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Replies 2.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

Posted Images

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, JamesAT18 said:

Installed everything myself. These fronts were a b***h. Removed UCA, steering, sway bar, just to fit. Ball Joint was a pain to separate from the knuckle. But it's beautiful.

Discount Tire price match walmart for a good deal on 295 55 20 

Rubs on full lock

 

5100s all around 

Tuck.jpg

Your truck looks great.

 

When we removed the stock fronts and installed the 6112 on the highest setting on my '15 Sierra NHT, we only had to disconnect the swaybar on both sides. It was surprisingly easy. I wonder what the differences are?

Edited by Red_5
Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

On my 14 4x4 WT I only disconnected the sway bar and lifted the strut in place with a jack.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Slash L86 Enthusiast

Slash L86

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, JamesAT18 said:

Installed everything myself. These fronts were a b***h. Removed UCA, steering, sway bar, just to fit. Ball Joint was a pain to separate from the knuckle. But it's beautiful.

Discount Tire price match walmart for a good deal on 295 55 20 

Rubs on full lock

 

5100s all around 

Tuck.jpg

Stock height or lifted?

Maybe get some wheel spacers either way to prevent the rubbin.

What part is it rubbing on, UCA or liner?

JamesAT18 Enthusiast

JamesAT18

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 9/9/2019 at 6:39 PM, Slash L86 said:

Stock height or lifted?

Maybe get some wheel spacers either way to prevent the rubbin.

What part is it rubbing on, UCA or liner?

2018 GMC All Terrain

Bilstien 5100s all around (front at highest setting)

Stock blocks in back

Stock UCAs

295 55 20 Ridge Grapplers

No Spacers

Minimum Rubbing at FULL lock on UCA

No Trimming

 

Sorry, forgot to mention some of those specs. 

I would like to stay away from spacers as much as possible. 

Edited by JamesAT18
Arnj85 New Member

Arnj85

Posted
Posted

Ive been reading a few pages of replies and questions. But I my question is I have a 15 Silverado crew cab midnight edt. 6.2 ltz z71. And I'm going for the lower sport truck look. I removed the blocks out of the rear and stock up front. Will the 5100 still accept the lower height in the rear or should I use a drop shock in the rear and regular 5100 up front?? 

Thanks 

JamesAT18 Enthusiast

JamesAT18

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Arnj85 said:

Ive been reading a few pages of replies and questions. But I my question is I have a 15 Silverado crew cab midnight edt. 6.2 ltz z71. And I'm going for the lower sport truck look. I removed the blocks out of the rear and stock up front. Will the 5100 still accept the lower height in the rear or should I use a drop shock in the rear and regular 5100 up front?? 

Thanks 

Should accept the removed block fine. The rears don't provide any additional lift. 

Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted
On 9/8/2019 at 2:03 PM, Red_5 said:

I haven't done anything else to figure out my odd measurements but after doing more driving, I think the ride is getting even better. I noticed that my body subconsciously tenses up when it knows I'm about to drive over bumps that I hit everyday and the hits just don't seem as bad as they once did. I still have less than 200 miles on the 6112/5160 setup and I'm more pleased everyday.

 

I think I read somewhere that the 6112 springs were softer than the OEM springs and I believe it. The truck does seem to lean slightly more in turns but it isn't bad. The truck now rides like I think a 4x4 truck that had a nearly $60k MSRP should ride. Money well spent. 

This is interesting to me. The 6112 uses a 750lb spring which, imo sounds pretty high. A lot of coilovers use 650-700. Someone posted before that own is 745. 

 

I have the 5100s and don't love them, it's pretty firm. You say the 6112s feel softer than OEM?  Do you have the NHT / max tow package?

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, Yondu said:

This is interesting to me. The 6112 uses a 750lb spring which, imo sounds pretty high. A lot of coilovers use 650-700. Someone posted before that own is 745. 

 

I have the 5100s and don't love them, it's pretty firm. You say the 6112s feel softer than OEM?  Do you have the NHT / max tow package?

I was talking to my friend about this after I posted the response you quoted and he pointed out that maybe the side to side roll that I think are softer front springs could be the result of higher ride height, I'm not sure. Another element that could be fooling me is that the spring and shock are matched better than OEM which achieves a better ride quality even if stiffer sprung. What I am sure of is that the ride is much better on our far from perfect roads, I've noticed that I drive a lot faster around town and now I need to be more conscious of it where before my truck would be uncomfortable and even unsafe in a few spots to drive even at the speed limit. I still only have a few hundred miles on it but the ride quality just seems to keep improving.

 

My truck does have the NHT package.

Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's also possible your trucks original springs are firmer than typical 1500 GM trucks, so maybe they are softer.  I have a Z71 which has a firmer ride than regular but I don't believe as firm as a NHT truck. I know your front sway bar is thicker too. 

 

I just switched from a 275/60r20 to a 285/70r17.  It's supposed to be 32.8", but it's more like 32.3 and my 275/60r20 was about 32.8.  With 2.5" more rubber (same model tire) it got ride of the harshness I had. 

 

I was hoping for more change and at first it seemed very slight.  After putting a couple hundred miles on it, I'm good with the ride for now.  I went from a harsh riding truck to a firm riding truck. 

 

If positive reviews keep coming in on the 6112, especially in comparison to the 5100s I may consider them next year.  I just wish Bilstein went with a softer spring than 750lbs. 

 

Edited by Yondu
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
papageoff Enthusiast

papageoff

Posted
Posted

Well, my 5100s have arrived and I was planning to tackle the install this weekend with a buddy.  He used to be an Infiniti tech so he's got access to a wall-mounted compressor.  My plan is to remove the existing 2.25" level kit, set the 5100s on the highest setting and re-use the 3/8" spacer under the 5100 to get back to 2.2" of level.

 

I'm doing this because my truck's had a suspension-related rattle for some time now and has recently started rattling and creaking very badly when the suspension flexes. When we rock the truck side to side, we feel the vibrations from the creak in the shock/spring assembly much more than anywhere else.  So, I am about 60% sure that the problem is in that assembly.  We can also see the top of the shock move in the mount ever so slightly (a few mm, nothing more) when viewed from above.  It's almost like a bushing is failing but I don't know if it's normal or not.  I can't get a clear view of the other side..  The motion I'm talking about is in the center section of part 8 in the diagram.  We'll check the ball joints as well just in case, but I thought 2.25" was supposed to be safe on those. 

 

Should I hold off on the replacement until I can get new top mounts in?  I'd hate to tear it all apart to have to wait a week for parts.  I daily the truck, but I do have alternate vehicles I can use.  If it is the ball joints, should I replace the UCAs with the RC ones or just change out the ball joints with OEM or MOOG units?

 

 

Slash L86 Enthusiast

Slash L86

Posted
Posted (edited)
40 minutes ago, papageoff said:

Well, my 5100s have arrived and I was planning to tackle the install this weekend with a buddy.  He used to be an Infiniti tech so he's got access to a wall-mounted compressor.  My plan is to remove the existing 2.25" level kit, set the 5100s on the highest setting and re-use the 3/8" spacer under the 5100 to get back to 2.2" of level.

 

I'm doing this because my truck's had a suspension-related rattle for some time now and has recently started rattling and creaking very badly when the suspension flexes. When we rock the truck side to side, we feel the vibrations from the creak in the shock/spring assembly much more than anywhere else.  So, I am about 60% sure that the problem is in that assembly.  We can also see the top of the shock move in the mount ever so slightly (a few mm, nothing more) when viewed from above.  It's almost like a bushing is failing but I don't know if it's normal or not.  I can't get a clear view of the other side..  The motion I'm talking about is in the center section of part 8 in the diagram.  We'll check the ball joints as well just in case, but I thought 2.25" was supposed to be safe on those. 

 

Should I hold off on the replacement until I can get new top mounts in?  I'd hate to tear it all apart to have to wait a week for parts.  I daily the truck, but I do have alternate vehicles I can use.  If it is the ball joints, should I replace the UCAs with the RC ones or just change out the ball joints with OEM or MOOG units?

 

 

UCA replacement would come down to how bumpy the roads are you travel on. Your old ball joint could be messed up from the lift. Get an upgraded one with more travel or switch to uniball if you live where road salt and crap won't harm it.

I would personally leave out the 3/8 spacer. 5100 at max are as high as you should probably go w/o upgrading uca. Plus, it will effect the ride in a negative way.

Definitely get some new top hats(upper strut mounts) prior to assembly just in case. They're not that expensive and you could always return them if old ones are still good. Get oem ones.

Edited by Slash L86
papageoff Enthusiast

papageoff

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, Slash L86 said:

UCA replacement would come down to how bumpy the roads are you travel on. Your old ball joint could be messed up from the lift. Get an upgraded one with more travel or switch to uniball if you live where road salt and crap won't harm it.

I would personally leave out the 3/8 spacer. 5100 at max are as high as you should probably go w/o upgrading uca. Plus, it will effect the ride in a negative way.

Well, I live on a dirt road, so yeah bumps are very common for me.

 

I thought I remembered reading that 2.25 was safe for the ball joints but I guess not.  I wasn't aware of upgraded ball joints other than the UCAs that rough country offers.  I don't think I need to go to a uniball.  That seems a bit extreme, but what do I know.

 

 

Slash L86 Enthusiast

Slash L86

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, papageoff said:

Well, I live on a dirt road, so yeah bumps are very common for me.

 

I thought I remembered reading that 2.25 was safe for the ball joints but I guess not.  I wasn't aware of upgraded ball joints other than the UCAs that rough country offers.  I don't think I need to go to a uniball.  That seems a bit extreme, but what do I know.

 

 

Yeah, upgrading uca would give you better ball joint than factory. Think they also make ball joint upgrades for stock uca that allow more movement.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,726
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Ragg-Boy
    Newest Member
    Ragg-Boy
    Joined

  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 965 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...