Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
8 minutes ago, Granite7 said:

Added Bilstein 6112s on the highest notch today. Rear has 5100s and 2.25” blocks (1” of lift). It turned out exactly like I wanted it to be.
affb9d5190a9c38ff9cfc01ece3c909a.plist
9048bbc433e87b413449148e8c87355e.jpg

How’s the ride quality compared to stock?? I just got the 6112 kit too and just waiting on Kryptonite UCAs to come in. Coming off 5100s and stock UCAs so I’m sure I’ll be stoked 

Posted
How’s the ride quality compared to stock?? I just got the 6112 kit too and just waiting on Kryptonite UCAs to come in. Coming off 5100s and stock UCAs so I’m sure I’ll be stoked 

I only have about 30 miles on the 6112s today, but I’m very happy so far. The truck doesn’t pogo over bumps like it did on the ranchos. I hear the bumps on the freeway when the tires hit, but I don’t feel much. Just a single bump and no bounce. Less body roll on corners.
Posted
14 hours ago, Jdub289f said:

How’s the ride quality compared to stock?? I just got the 6112 kit too and just waiting on Kryptonite UCAs to come in. Coming off 5100s and stock UCAs so I’m sure I’ll be stoked 

My 6112s seemed to get better with age. They seemed to need to break in some. I went from stock NHT suspension with 42k miles to the 6112s and 5160s and didn’t notice much initially but after a few hundred miles I noticed the improvement.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Anyone with a Denali care to lay their leveling set-up on me? Seeing a lot of posts for everything else, but I have a 2015 1500 Denali and don't want the extra stress of stock components the Rough Country leveling kit might cause. Bilsteins, at least in the front, sound ideal, but will that not affect the "MagneRide?" I suppose you could say i want a slight rake look, not completely level. I'll occasionally have a trailer with a motorcycle or two on it and/or a motorcycle in the bed. Thanks, and my apologies if there's a thread better suited for this question! 

Posted
Anyone with a Denali care to lay their leveling set-up on me? Seeing a lot of posts for everything else, but I have a 2015 1500 Denali and don't want the extra stress of stock components the Rough Country leveling kit might cause. Bilsteins, at least in the front, sound ideal, but will that not affect the "MagneRide?" I suppose you could say i want a slight rake look, not completely level. I'll occasionally have a trailer with a motorcycle or two on it and/or a motorcycle in the bed. Thanks, and my apologies if there's a thread better suited for this question! 
Bilsteins would remove the magneride because you'd be replacing the shocks required for the magneride system. Maybe I misunderstood the question.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Checking in after I’ve put on more mileage on the 6112s at the highest notch. Less nose dive at hard stops. Less body roll in the turns. The body bounces around less over bumps. Definitely an improvement, but the suspension is still firm. I still feel a good jolt over some bumps.

I added the 6112s for a little extra ground clearance for driving logging roads. I didn’t expect my truck to ride like a Cadillac, and if it did, it wouldn’t be able to handle the BLM and Forest Service roads that I use on the weekends. This kit gave me the added ground clearance and kept the strength of the suspension so I can still use it like a truck.

4 year old z71 Rancho shocks with only 32k miles.
ee08b6de4439a80fcf83dc047150e5a0.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Granite7 said:

Checking in after I’ve put on more mileage on the 6112s at the highest notch. Less nose dive at hard stops. Less body roll in the turns. The body bounces around less over bumps. Definitely an improvement, but the suspension is still firm. I still feel a good jolt over some bumps.

I added the 6112s for a little extra ground clearance for driving logging roads. I didn’t expect my truck to ride like a Cadillac, and if it did, it wouldn’t be able to handle the BLM and Forest Service roads that I use on the weekends. This kit gave me the added ground clearance and kept the strength of the suspension so I can still use it like a truck.

4 year old z71 Rancho shocks with only 32k miles.
ee08b6de4439a80fcf83dc047150e5a0.jpg

Good feedback! Are you going to get UCAs too? Im discovering it’s a major improvement for not hitting the droop stops really easily. Can’t wait to put mine on. Waiting on Kryptonites to come in. They make theirs with a slightly different angle so you don’t have to cut off the droop stops and overextended your cv axles like cognito tells you to. Also has a lifetime warranty. Once everything is all installed hopefully within the month I’ll report back on progress. I’m coming off of 5100s and stock UCAs. 

  • Like 1
Posted
Good feedback! Are you going to get UCAs too? Im discovering it’s a major improvement for not hitting the droop stops really easily. Can’t wait to put mine on. Waiting on Kryptonites to come in. They make theirs with a slightly different angle so you don’t have to cut off the droop stops and overextended your cv axles like cognito tells you to. Also has a lifetime warranty. Once everything is all installed hopefully within the month I’ll report back on progress. I’m coming off of 5100s and stock UCAs. 

No reason for me to replace UCAs until they are worn out. My 2016 has the cast steel UCAs and I’m only lifted 1.85”.

 

But, I’ll look forward to your report on the Kryptonites in case I do need to make the change in a few years.

Posted

Here's the big question...do the Z71's come with a larger block at the rear axle than the non Z71's? Reason I'm asking is that I've added 5100's all around with fronts on top setting and I want to know if I add an inch of block lift in the rear will I be over extending the new Bilstein 5100 rear shocks?

 

Here are some details that may be helpful...

 

2014 GMC Sierra Z71, Double cab. Great truck. I have a Leer 180 cap on it, and a diamond deck cross type toolbox (full of tools!) sitting lengthwise in the back...together thats gotta be about 400 lbs of weight. It was time to replace the Ranchos so I went Bilstein. Got them from a guy named Kolak at the Jeep forums. No offense to MTM (?) Whose been posting here, I have experience with Kolak so I went that way.

 

BEFORE adding the toolbox and Leer cap, I believe I measured the rear at about 39 inches and the front at about 35. Yep, 4 inches of downward rake to the front.

 

AFTER adding the full toolbox and Leer cap i measured 37 1/2 inches in the back.

 

After adding Bilstien 5100's all around with the fronts at top setting, I got almost exactly 2 inches of lift. I put a long level along the under side of the rocker panels and again, I'm just about perfectly level. Bubble is between the lines.

 

The ride is SO much better, but as others have noted, 35 mph around a potholed city street is still dodgy. I guess it always will be in a truck. Otherwise the truck is steady and sure.

 

So again, do the Z71's come with a larger block at the rear axle than the non Z71's?

 

Any solid info would be helpful. 

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
So again, do the Z71's come with a larger block at the rear axle than the non Z71's?

 

Any solid info would be helpful. 

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

 

No.

 

If you want to know for sure on your truck, measure your truck’s rear blocks. 1.25” thick from the factory. You can go to 2.25” thick blocks with the 5100s.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Granite7 said:

 


No.

If you want to know for sure, measure your truck’s tear blocks. 1.25” thick from the factory. You can go to 2.25” thick blocks with the 5100s.

 

Ah. Well that's great. And fast. So, kind of like my prom date...

 

Seriously though, thanks for that info. I'm thinking of  bringing the rear end up that extra inch with a block, so I can keep the Leer cap and the toolbox, but may also want to tow a small travel trailer (22ft+-) and would like to make sure my arse isnt dragging when I do all that.

 

Thanks again @Granite7

  • Like 1
Posted
Ah. Well that's great. And fast. So, kind of like my prom date...
 
Seriously though, thanks for that info. I'm thinking of  bringing the rear end up that extra inch with a block, so I can keep the Leer cap and the toolbox, but may also want to tow a small travel trailer (22ft+-) and would like to make sure my arse isnt dragging when I do all that.
 
Thanks again [mention=205292]Granite7[/mention]

Yes, that is along the lines of what I am thinking also. I’m still waiting on my 100XR to come in. We load the truck up on camping trips and I don’t want it to squat. I would also like to be hauling a 4-wheeler behind me in another year or two.

This is a typical load out. Once we have the topper, the bed will be full to the roofline. The bed was 100% full under the tonneau, plus that 120qt cooler, a case of water, and a 7-gallon water jug all on the hitch.

dd92dfeb2c532ac085941842c08ac059.jpg
Posted

FWIW I ran helwig 987 heeler springs on my last K2 and it raised the rear up an inch and stiffened up the ride a little. Another option...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted

I hauled 1200lbs of concrete tonight. All the bags were stacked to the rear of the rear axle, so this is almost the worst case scenario: 1450lbs out of my 1660lb max payload. I’m very happy with the minimal squat with my setup.
Front: Bilstein 6112 on the 4th notch 1.875”
Rear: Bilstein 5100 with 1” taller block (2.25”)

d4304e2f655b5baf71c0bef808bf3827.jpg

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 503 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...