Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
8 minutes ago, Granite7 said:

Added Bilstein 6112s on the highest notch today. Rear has 5100s and 2.25” blocks (1” of lift). It turned out exactly like I wanted it to be.
affb9d5190a9c38ff9cfc01ece3c909a.plist
9048bbc433e87b413449148e8c87355e.jpg

How’s the ride quality compared to stock?? I just got the 6112 kit too and just waiting on Kryptonite UCAs to come in. Coming off 5100s and stock UCAs so I’m sure I’ll be stoked 

Posted
How’s the ride quality compared to stock?? I just got the 6112 kit too and just waiting on Kryptonite UCAs to come in. Coming off 5100s and stock UCAs so I’m sure I’ll be stoked 

I only have about 30 miles on the 6112s today, but I’m very happy so far. The truck doesn’t pogo over bumps like it did on the ranchos. I hear the bumps on the freeway when the tires hit, but I don’t feel much. Just a single bump and no bounce. Less body roll on corners.
Posted
14 hours ago, Jdub289f said:

How’s the ride quality compared to stock?? I just got the 6112 kit too and just waiting on Kryptonite UCAs to come in. Coming off 5100s and stock UCAs so I’m sure I’ll be stoked 

My 6112s seemed to get better with age. They seemed to need to break in some. I went from stock NHT suspension with 42k miles to the 6112s and 5160s and didn’t notice much initially but after a few hundred miles I noticed the improvement.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Anyone with a Denali care to lay their leveling set-up on me? Seeing a lot of posts for everything else, but I have a 2015 1500 Denali and don't want the extra stress of stock components the Rough Country leveling kit might cause. Bilsteins, at least in the front, sound ideal, but will that not affect the "MagneRide?" I suppose you could say i want a slight rake look, not completely level. I'll occasionally have a trailer with a motorcycle or two on it and/or a motorcycle in the bed. Thanks, and my apologies if there's a thread better suited for this question! 

Posted
Anyone with a Denali care to lay their leveling set-up on me? Seeing a lot of posts for everything else, but I have a 2015 1500 Denali and don't want the extra stress of stock components the Rough Country leveling kit might cause. Bilsteins, at least in the front, sound ideal, but will that not affect the "MagneRide?" I suppose you could say i want a slight rake look, not completely level. I'll occasionally have a trailer with a motorcycle or two on it and/or a motorcycle in the bed. Thanks, and my apologies if there's a thread better suited for this question! 
Bilsteins would remove the magneride because you'd be replacing the shocks required for the magneride system. Maybe I misunderstood the question.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Checking in after I’ve put on more mileage on the 6112s at the highest notch. Less nose dive at hard stops. Less body roll in the turns. The body bounces around less over bumps. Definitely an improvement, but the suspension is still firm. I still feel a good jolt over some bumps.

I added the 6112s for a little extra ground clearance for driving logging roads. I didn’t expect my truck to ride like a Cadillac, and if it did, it wouldn’t be able to handle the BLM and Forest Service roads that I use on the weekends. This kit gave me the added ground clearance and kept the strength of the suspension so I can still use it like a truck.

4 year old z71 Rancho shocks with only 32k miles.
ee08b6de4439a80fcf83dc047150e5a0.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Granite7 said:

Checking in after I’ve put on more mileage on the 6112s at the highest notch. Less nose dive at hard stops. Less body roll in the turns. The body bounces around less over bumps. Definitely an improvement, but the suspension is still firm. I still feel a good jolt over some bumps.

I added the 6112s for a little extra ground clearance for driving logging roads. I didn’t expect my truck to ride like a Cadillac, and if it did, it wouldn’t be able to handle the BLM and Forest Service roads that I use on the weekends. This kit gave me the added ground clearance and kept the strength of the suspension so I can still use it like a truck.

4 year old z71 Rancho shocks with only 32k miles.
ee08b6de4439a80fcf83dc047150e5a0.jpg

Good feedback! Are you going to get UCAs too? Im discovering it’s a major improvement for not hitting the droop stops really easily. Can’t wait to put mine on. Waiting on Kryptonites to come in. They make theirs with a slightly different angle so you don’t have to cut off the droop stops and overextended your cv axles like cognito tells you to. Also has a lifetime warranty. Once everything is all installed hopefully within the month I’ll report back on progress. I’m coming off of 5100s and stock UCAs. 

  • Like 1
Posted
Good feedback! Are you going to get UCAs too? Im discovering it’s a major improvement for not hitting the droop stops really easily. Can’t wait to put mine on. Waiting on Kryptonites to come in. They make theirs with a slightly different angle so you don’t have to cut off the droop stops and overextended your cv axles like cognito tells you to. Also has a lifetime warranty. Once everything is all installed hopefully within the month I’ll report back on progress. I’m coming off of 5100s and stock UCAs. 

No reason for me to replace UCAs until they are worn out. My 2016 has the cast steel UCAs and I’m only lifted 1.85”.

 

But, I’ll look forward to your report on the Kryptonites in case I do need to make the change in a few years.

Posted

Here's the big question...do the Z71's come with a larger block at the rear axle than the non Z71's? Reason I'm asking is that I've added 5100's all around with fronts on top setting and I want to know if I add an inch of block lift in the rear will I be over extending the new Bilstein 5100 rear shocks?

 

Here are some details that may be helpful...

 

2014 GMC Sierra Z71, Double cab. Great truck. I have a Leer 180 cap on it, and a diamond deck cross type toolbox (full of tools!) sitting lengthwise in the back...together thats gotta be about 400 lbs of weight. It was time to replace the Ranchos so I went Bilstein. Got them from a guy named Kolak at the Jeep forums. No offense to MTM (?) Whose been posting here, I have experience with Kolak so I went that way.

 

BEFORE adding the toolbox and Leer cap, I believe I measured the rear at about 39 inches and the front at about 35. Yep, 4 inches of downward rake to the front.

 

AFTER adding the full toolbox and Leer cap i measured 37 1/2 inches in the back.

 

After adding Bilstien 5100's all around with the fronts at top setting, I got almost exactly 2 inches of lift. I put a long level along the under side of the rocker panels and again, I'm just about perfectly level. Bubble is between the lines.

 

The ride is SO much better, but as others have noted, 35 mph around a potholed city street is still dodgy. I guess it always will be in a truck. Otherwise the truck is steady and sure.

 

So again, do the Z71's come with a larger block at the rear axle than the non Z71's?

 

Any solid info would be helpful. 

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
So again, do the Z71's come with a larger block at the rear axle than the non Z71's?

 

Any solid info would be helpful. 

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

 

No.

 

If you want to know for sure on your truck, measure your truck’s rear blocks. 1.25” thick from the factory. You can go to 2.25” thick blocks with the 5100s.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Granite7 said:

 


No.

If you want to know for sure, measure your truck’s tear blocks. 1.25” thick from the factory. You can go to 2.25” thick blocks with the 5100s.

 

Ah. Well that's great. And fast. So, kind of like my prom date...

 

Seriously though, thanks for that info. I'm thinking of  bringing the rear end up that extra inch with a block, so I can keep the Leer cap and the toolbox, but may also want to tow a small travel trailer (22ft+-) and would like to make sure my arse isnt dragging when I do all that.

 

Thanks again @Granite7

  • Like 1
Posted
Ah. Well that's great. And fast. So, kind of like my prom date...
 
Seriously though, thanks for that info. I'm thinking of  bringing the rear end up that extra inch with a block, so I can keep the Leer cap and the toolbox, but may also want to tow a small travel trailer (22ft+-) and would like to make sure my arse isnt dragging when I do all that.
 
Thanks again [mention=205292]Granite7[/mention]

Yes, that is along the lines of what I am thinking also. I’m still waiting on my 100XR to come in. We load the truck up on camping trips and I don’t want it to squat. I would also like to be hauling a 4-wheeler behind me in another year or two.

This is a typical load out. Once we have the topper, the bed will be full to the roofline. The bed was 100% full under the tonneau, plus that 120qt cooler, a case of water, and a 7-gallon water jug all on the hitch.

dd92dfeb2c532ac085941842c08ac059.jpg
Posted

FWIW I ran helwig 987 heeler springs on my last K2 and it raised the rear up an inch and stiffened up the ride a little. Another option...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted

I hauled 1200lbs of concrete tonight. All the bags were stacked to the rear of the rear axle, so this is almost the worst case scenario: 1450lbs out of my 1660lb max payload. I’m very happy with the minimal squat with my setup.
Front: Bilstein 6112 on the 4th notch 1.875”
Rear: Bilstein 5100 with 1” taller block (2.25”)

d4304e2f655b5baf71c0bef808bf3827.jpg

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for all that information, I might purchase one and see if it will work for me, if not they may let me return it! Yes for sure the tires are definitely within limit for my truck empty, and when I do tow I'll definitely make sure to raise the rear psi for the amount of weight that's going to be on it.
    • Yes exactly, more and more these days people/companies are afraid of liability issues so its easier just to say no rather than risk putting their neck on the line.    I will say with the Autel unit or when I used it last year on my truck, it wasn't like I could choose the 2025 model year or even the 2024 model year as that option was not there to manipulate the placard pressures but had to go back to 2023 or there abouts and then it showed up as an option, odd but that was how the software was then and I can't say one way or the other now as they throw out updates every so often. I still would talk to your tire dealer though to start with and they may do it for nothing but also they may have a comment on a better unit to purchase. All I know is that one of the large tire shops in my area happens to use these Autel units for their use and set them up to use the wifi and all of that jazz for constant updating because each tire tech has one handed to them by the shop but I just plugged it into my laptop to update it and yes if one is bought it has to be registered so you can get the link to do updates and then the unit has to be updated before its even used. I am not at all techy so it took me a bit but anyway just a heads up for anything you buy, most likely it will need to be connected to a computer to access the internet to have it updated to the latest software version before you can put it to use.   If your truck is near empty, those tire pressures you listed are a very safe upper range pressures to carry the weight, both the front and rear as I know they could be run lower yet with an empty truck. And if its a trailer and not some motorcycle your going to strap onto the front of your truck on a rack, you shouldn't have a need to inflate your front tires if your at 55 front already, its the rear ones that would need more air if you have much hitch weight. 
    • Thank you, I'll check that Autel scanner out and see if it will work for me! Ya I can see GM's point of view if they lower the psi set value for someone and the person sell's the truck and the new owner puts the factory tires back on then their could be liability issues cause the psi warning light wasn't coming on when the tires were under inflated for towing their load and then it might be able to be traced back to GM lowering it.
    • I had a similar but different response when I talked to the service manager where I bought my truck in that he said GM corporate won't allow them to lower the placard pressure setting as they would get their hand slapped but that of course they have the ability to make that change. His suggestion was simply go to a tire dealer or third party shop that is willing to reset the pressures lower. However I chose to buy a tpms tool and partly based off of this very forum as it had been proven to work on the 2024 model ( Global B system ) and while I could have paid lots for a full two way diag tool, I didn't want to spend that much and bought the recommended Autel TS 508 and it will reprogram the 2025 model and assume it should do the 2026 as well. However the tool is rather proprietary to reprogramming Autel tpms sensors so that is a function I will never use, where as a real two way scanner would have many uses but also have yearly subscriptions etc where this 508 is free updates for as long as they put updates out for the unit. In any event it worked to lower the placard pressures and I often use it to adjust my actual tire pressures although will check with a mechanical gauge as well sometimes just to make sure that tires tpms sensor isn't lying to me.    My suggestion is either buy a tool that you know will work to adjust the system or start out by getting the tire shop you bought your tires from to reset your truck and if after that you still want a unit to do it yourself, get one at that point. 
    • Here is an image of a quick Google search about these tires on my truck and it's exactly same psi recommendation the Toyo tires company gave me!    I'm not looking for anyone else recommended psi or anything, I'm just looking to see if anyone knew a way to get rid of the factory low psi warning light, because I'm not running high psi and ruining my tires when I'm not towing! 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...