Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
25 minutes ago, jimbrown1 said:

I have this setup but I left the front shocks at stock setting and used a Rugged Off-road spacer.  This is on a 2018 Sierra Crew Cab.  No rubbing with the 275/60/20 BFG tires.  

Thanks. Is the Rugged off road spacer under the strut or on the top? 

Posted
4 minutes ago, CbrownGT said:

Thanks. Is the Rugged off road spacer under the strut or on the top? 

Bottom of strut

Posted
1 hour ago, jimbrown1 said:

Bottom of strut

Thanks. Assuming you have no rubbing with this setup I would think/hope I can just do the bilsteins at 3rd setting and have no rub. Getting the tires on tomorrow at stock height and they should clear. But I’d love to level some as my 14 was leveled like this 

Posted
16 hours ago, CbrownGT said:

Been trying to comb through this and utilize search function but..anyone with a 16-18 with stamped steel UCA’s running the 5100’s up front at settings 2, 3, or 4 and a stock 20 inch rim with a 33 inch tire (275/60/20 specifically) and have zero or minimal rubbing on UCA?  Having a hard time finding answers on this 

I used to have that setup.  1.2" lift with bilsteins, 275/60r20 on 20x9 +24 and no rub. Offset is far more of the issue.  If you're on +0 with a 33, it will most likely have rubbing. 

Posted

Question on the ride quality (2014 Crew cab, standard bed, 4x4). Replaced front and rear with 5100. The rear shock arrived first installed them. Smooth ride in city, but on the high that has those ruts on the road seem the rear bounce like a basket ball. When the front came in installed (on the lowest setting) thinking it would fix the problem. The bounce is still there. If I change the front setting to the third rung would this help or not? Thank you.

Posted
48 minutes ago, 14LTZ-1LZ said:

Question on the ride quality (2014 Crew cab, standard bed, 4x4). Replaced front and rear with 5100. The rear shock arrived first installed them. Smooth ride in city, but on the high that has those ruts on the road seem the rear bounce like a basket ball. When the front came in installed (on the lowest setting) thinking it would fix the problem. The bounce is still there. If I change the front setting to the third rung would this help or not? Thank you.

Here I was thinking it was only me this entire time... Same here more trampoline like tho. Sorta float.

Posted

I just spent an hour or so and went back about 45 pages. Have a couple questions after a little back ground. I traded my 07 Sierra with 435,000 on it and had run Bilsteins for the last 300,000 so I am a big fan of Bilsteins. I have them on my 92 Typhoon also. . I now have an 18 100th Anniversary edition.  I have 110,000 on it and am looking for new shocks. Not going to raise or lower it, stock height is fine with me. It has factory 22's on it.  Changing from the horrible Brdgestone tires to Michelins made a hugh difference. Any opinions on the which shocks to get? Anyone with a similar truck and your shock experiences? Based on what I have been reading the 5100's look like the way to go. 

Posted
I just spent an hour or so and went back about 45 pages. Have a couple questions after a little back ground. I traded my 07 Sierra with 435,000 on it and had run Bilsteins for the last 300,000 so I am a big fan of Bilsteins. I have them on my 92 Typhoon also. . I now have an 18 100th Anniversary edition.  I have 110,000 on it and am looking for new shocks. Not going to raise or lower it, stock height is fine with me. It has factory 22's on it.  Changing from the horrible Brdgestone tires to Michelins made a hugh difference. Any opinions on the which shocks to get? Anyone with a similar truck and your shock experiences? Based on what I have been reading the 5100's look like the way to go. 

I had the Bilstein 4600s on my 2000 Silverado and I would highly recommend them. Since you are not lifting, you don’t need the 5100s. The 4600s will give you a smoother ride than the 5100s.
Posted

Bilstein 5100. What gives a better ride. Having it at the top setting or having it at the lowest stock setting with a spacer on top of strut for a 2in level?

Posted
24 minutes ago, Willard Burnight said:

Bilstein 5100. What gives a better ride. Having it at the top setting or having it at the lowest stock setting with a spacer on top of strut for a 2in level?

Is anybody taking time to read through at least some of this thread before asking?...

 

Front Bilstein 5100's are not meant to be used with a spacer. That's why they have the different settings. My guess, is that the 5100's at the lowest/ stock settings with a spacer,,would be a harsher ride than the 5100's on the top setting

Posted
Is anybody taking time to read through at least some of this thread before asking?...


You’re posting answers voluntarily. Why get upset when someone asks a question? If you don’t want to answer, then don’t.

I can’t blame a guy for not reading through hundreds of posts that aren’t answering his question anyway.
Posted
 

 

You’re posting answers voluntarily. Why get upset when someone asks a question? If you don’t want to answer, then don’t.

 

I can’t blame a guy for not reading through hundreds of posts that aren’t answering his question anyway.

 

Actually there are many many many good post that answer your question. Indepth at that. Even go into why no diff would be felt with change of height setting.

 

Must grow thick skin. Just giving you a hard time...

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RichardRS
    Newest Member
    RichardRS
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 768 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well that book won't sell many copies. Taking ones right foot off the loud pedal never gets applause. Funny really, It isn't that people don't know what to do...they just don't want to do it. But they will complain about it. About bad craftsmanship, about the cost of fuel, about the cost of part and repairs and mainly they complain that the solution while still possible isn't one they are willing to do.    I observe this daily. 'Gas cost to much!", they wail, while they mat it passing at 80+ mpg and scoot down the road like gas cost a dime a gallon. Then complain about the few that will lift and save both fuel and iron like they are owed and own the road.    Good thing they haven't an ounce of influence on my equipment. The rest I just laugh at. Stupid is as stupid does, right Forest?     
    • Today I filled up with 4.899 gallons of fuel at a cost of $4.899 a gallon. $24 bucks. 290 miles. 59.2 mpg. After my 4% COSTCO discount just under eight cents a mile.  
    • Howdy folks,   Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons.    Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!
    • I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.
    • I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights.   Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...