Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 hours ago, Jja6782 said:

Coming up on 50k miles on my 16 z71 double cab. Looking to add the 5100s and add beefier tires while I’m at it. What’s the average cost to install the shocks? Should I be concerned about any extra wear with such a small lift? Also what will be the biggest tires I could put on? Hoping not to kill my mpg as I drive alot

Since you don't have stamped steel UCAs you can go on the top setting if you want.  There will be slightly more balljoint wear.  On my 2018 I went with the 1.25" setting and have read it's as high as I should go on stock UCAs.  

 

Meaty tires will crush your MPGs.  I lost around 3-3.5 with Duratracs.  I have a less agressive AT3 4s now and am hoping it's only 1-1.5mpg loss but I won't know for a little while.  

Posted
South. Near AC

There’s American truck center, uprise off-road, and a few others


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)

What I've done in the past is use the bds/zone/cst websites to find authorized installers in the area and go from there. If they're familiar enough to be doing full lifts, they certainly qualified to do some shocks. 

Edited by MBSierra17
  • Like 1
Posted

What are y'all paying for install these days?  First shop I reached out to quoted me $600+ with an alignment, and that's if I supply the shocks.

Posted
31 minutes ago, RHStansbury said:

What are y'all paying for install these days?  First shop I reached out to quoted me $600+ with an alignment, and that's if I supply the shocks.

Rears are 2 bolts each and take 20 minutes...maybe you can save some doing those?

 

Fronts took me a few hours and when I brought it in for an alignment they said it was still within spec.  (1.25 lift up front, 2" block on back instead of stock 1.25)

Posted
On ‎1‎/‎13‎/‎2019 at 12:33 AM, jgraves13 said:

Big o tires said they would charge $95/side in the front. I'm in Socal. $600 is absurd


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does that include taking the strut assembly out and reinstalling or if you just bring the units in for shock swapping?

An alignment also needs to be performed.

$600 is highway robbery.

Posted
Does that include taking the strut assembly out and reinstalling or if you just bring the units in for shock swapping?
An alignment also needs to be performed.
$600 is highway robbery.


I didn't go that much into detail, but seemed like if I brought the truck to them with the Bilsteins in a box, that would be how much to swap. Plus another $90 for alignment


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
On 1/13/2019 at 12:33 AM, jgraves13 said:

Big o tires said they would charge $95/side in the front. I'm in Socal. $600 is absurd


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While I did mine myself, I'd have paid $190 for the fronts to be installed, if you trust them.  It's hard finding a good competant shop.   

 

 

Posted
On 1/11/2019 at 5:43 PM, Jja6782 said:

Recommended installer in NJ?

Burns gmc did my 2 fronts for $120.

 

Do the rears yourself, literally takes 5-10 minutes if you have an impact gun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,948
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    zibzer2
    Newest Member
    zibzer2
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 743 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...