Bilstein shocks thread

TXGREEK · December 2, 2018

Which CST kit do you have? I've also looked into HaloLift Boss, at $899 for the fronts. I think the Bilstein 6112s are $699 for other vehicles and imagine they will be the same for GM 1500s.

Is your ride bouncy on the freeway, especially concrete ones with expansion joints? Was it before?

Mine are the coil overs designed for the 4.5” lift I’ve got the front CSR 3504 and the rears are CSR 6530’s, absolutely ZERO bounce. If you want a leveling strut, CST makes the CSR 3503 which will give you, I believe up to 3” of front height which I wouldn’t recommend without new UCA’s. I was actually about to switch from the 2.25” leveling kit I had to that CST 3503 but I’m sooooooo happy I did this setup instead cause I would’ve spent twice as much.

Yondu · December 2, 2018

I wonder if replacing the UCA with Readylifts UCA designed for the 2" level would improve the ride quality of those leveling with Bilstein 5100s. Any thoughts?

I have about 1.4" of front lift. I've heard some say a coilover like a HaloLift would ride softer on road, others say the spring rate is higher and it will ride rougher, but be better.

My truck has always had a little highway bounce, I just want it smooth.

Grjfer · December 3, 2018

I put Bilstein 5100 on my 2015 GMC Sierra after removing the Rough Country 2. 5" level lift up front and a 1" over block in the rear. I found the ride to be firmer, yet more stable. In some ways it it was a bit rough. Mainly I found initial hit would be very firm, but settle much quicker then the Rancho 5000.

I recently traded off the 2015 for a 2018. The 2018 came with a Z60 suspension package. Today while pulling a load very similar to what I used to pull with a 15 on the same road I found the 18 to have way more bounce, and a lot longer to settle out. I will definitely be adding a set of Bilsteins in the future.

TXGREEK · December 3, 2018

I wonder if replacing the UCA with Readylifts UCA designed for the 2" level would improve the ride quality of those leveling with Bilstein 5100s. Any thoughts?

I have about 1.4" of front lift. I've heard some say a coilover like a HaloLift would ride softer on road, others say the spring rate is higher and it will ride rougher, but be better.

My truck has always had a little highway bounce, I just want it smooth.

After having my truck leveled before, I’d only recommend what my personal experience is, CST coil-overs, but there’s almost no way getting away from some sort of road feel especially running E’s or F’s. The CST lift with Coil-Overs actually gave my truck an enormous advantage over being leveled. I’ve heard Fox coil overs are known to ride a bit stiffer too. Either way, you’re best bet will be coil-overs or stick to stock.

papageoff · December 7, 2018

So, just a quick question as much for my curiosity as anything... I have a 2.25" ProComp level installed that uses 2 pieces. Would it be better to install 5100s in the stock position and keep the pro comp level or install the bilsteins at max lift and add the bottom 1/4" spacer from the procomp kit?

jimmyboy8301 · December 7, 2018

21 minutes ago, papageoff said:

So, just a quick question as much for my curiosity as anything... I have a 2.25" ProComp level installed that uses 2 pieces. Would it be better to install 5100s in the stock position and keep the pro comp level or install the bilsteins at max lift and add the bottom 1/4" spacer from the procomp kit?

it's probably going to be about the same either way, but regardless the ride should be better with the bilsteins

Grjfer · December 7, 2018

56 minutes ago, papageoff said:

So, just a quick question as much for my curiosity as anything... I have a 2.25" ProComp level installed that uses 2 pieces. Would it be better to install 5100s in the stock position and keep the pro comp level or install the bilsteins at max lift and add the bottom 1/4" spacer from the procomp kit?

Purpose of the Bilstein 5100's is to give you up to 1.83" of lift while keeping your drive angles correct. 5100 give you a lift while maintaining travel. Spacers depending on Style, either preload or extend your coils, where the 5100 maintain stock coil compression. Though there are a lot of setups out there using the 5100s with a spacer, your best ride with least amount suspension wear will be accomplished by using 5100 alone.

I had the Rough Country 2 and 1/2 in level lift on my 2015 GMC Sierra. This also included the 1-inch over block in the rear. I removed the front Rough Country components and replace them where the Bilstein 5100 on the highest setting. I left the block in the rear, and installed the 5100 and place of the Rancho Shocks. With a Z71 suspension a truck never really was what I considered a smooth ride, so the 5100 really didn't make it any smoother. What they did do was tame the ride. The sloppiness and bounce was replaced with a firm solid hit that settled out quickly. The truck felt more planted, with the ability to settle out much quicker. Here's a picture of how the truck looked with the 5100 on the highest setting, and the one inch over block. Tires were 275 60 R20.

jimcampbell · December 7, 2018

OK. I just bought a 2018 Sierra Crew cab 4x4. I do NOT want a lift kit, I only want to level it out. Shocks or spacers? Once level, what is the maximum height tire I can run? Thanks.

Yondu · December 8, 2018

Is your truck a Z71? I just changed out my Z71 shocks on my 2018 Silverado for Bilsteins set at 1.3" lift (2nd to top) and it has a better ride. It's stiff, but it was before. It maintained the stiffness and made the truck less apt to shudder or wallow in the highway.

It's definitely an improvement. I would still like a softer ride myself though. Spacers will not improve your ride at all, just slightly stiffer.

Yondu · December 8, 2018

Curious if everyone used the stock front bumpstops inside the front struts...? I was curious if they should be trimmed or removed, I believe Bilstein says to use them. I just checked and under the weight of the truck it is resting on them. Surely that would make the front suspension firmer.

Removing them should soften the front up some. On cars I've had previously they we're more of a fail safe, but this is resting on them

pronstar · December 8, 2018

Technically bumpstops are for up travel. Service perches are for down travel (I assume these are what you’re referring to).

I cut mine, but had reassurances from King that my coilovers would be fine.

I know many others also cut them, I just don’t know if any other setups have downtravel limitations built into the hardware or not.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yondu · December 8, 2018

6 minutes ago, pronstar said:

Technically bumpstops are for up travel. Service perches are for down travel (I assume these are what you’re referring to).

I cut mine, but had reassurances from King that my coilovers would be fine.

I know many others also cut them, I just don’t know if any other setups have downtravel limitations built into the hardware or not.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I'm referring to these yellow pieces.

pronstar · December 8, 2018

I'm referring to these yellow pieces.

Welp, that’s DEFINITELY your bumpstop [emoji4][emoji90]

Cut them at your peril.

Bottoming out onto hard parts is no bueno.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Move Over · December 8, 2018

Curious if everyone used the stock front bumpstops inside the front struts...? I was curious if they should be trimmed or removed, I believe Bilstein says to use them. I just checked and under the weight of the truck it is resting on them. Surely that would make the front suspension firmer.

Removing them should soften the front up some. On cars I've had previously they we're more of a fail safe, but this is resting on them

I used mine and there is about a 1/2 gap so my truck is not resting on them. My truck is also not harsh so i don’t see a reason to remove them - they had about the same amount of gap with stock shocks too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yondu · December 8, 2018

Mine had some gap when they were assembled and not installed. The weight of the truck compressing it further took that gap away. It's kind of a pain to check for installed and the truck on the ground, but I did last night.