Jump to content

Illuminated Door Sill Plates


EChavez

Recommended Posts

Posted

That looks awesome! How bright are they? Looks like my Sierra's getting new sill plates soon, they should come with them. At least with the SLT trim level. Do you know if they make some for the rear?

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Plenty bright in garage with doors up or dark. Not sure I can see them in full daylight. Front only at this time. Now, if I can keep from scratching them!

Posted

Did you happen to get any pics of the process? I want to do this have no experience at all with wiring or taking apart interiors.

Posted

Sorry, no other pics. The sill plates just snap in. I'll see if I can upload the instructions tomorrow. Really isn't hard to wire. At least for me (32 years in dealers). 2 wires is all. The hardest part is getting the terminal out of the connector at the bcm. You could probably just splice it in , but the new wire is a heavier guage. I can't imaging it really makes much difference. I did it the correct way because I had already spliced into that wire to add footwell lighting.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

There are several threads about Husky vs Weathertech mats. Here is one of them...

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/174273-weathertechs-bah/?hl=floor+mats&do=findComment&comment=1643902

Here's another one. Although it starts out focused on Weathertech mats, the general recommendation switches to Husky...

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/175354-weathertech-floor-mats/?hl=floor+mats

 

I hope this helps...

Posted

Got them installed last night. They fit perfectly. Wiring was easy except for the fact that they don't come with instructions. But I downloaded instructions from GM. Have done them before but couldn't remember connector and pin numbers. The wiring was exactly the same as Tahoe/Suburban as described in the instructions. I don't understand why they don't offer them for the pickups. All you need is power and ground. I used a ground on the left "A" pillar and connected the power wire to connector 7 (gray) pin 1 (gray wire) of the BCM and they come on with the dome lamps.They look awesome but I can't get a good picture that really shows the blue color. I think I took about 50-60 pic's but never got a good one.

Sorry if I missed it (it's very late and I'm getting a bit loopy), but could you post the Part #s for each; approx price; and if you ordered from dealer or after market. Very much appreciated. Was not going to do it until I saw your pics. They look fantastic. With your other light mods, it's gonna be killer. Thanks for your help.

Posted

They come as a set with wiring. Part number is 22933513. Cost around $250.00

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 2 Anonymous, 1,036 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...