Jump to content

Has anyone ever requested to have a truck from a certain assembly plan

GPGuy

Recommended Posts

GPGuy Senior Enthusiast

GPGuy

Posted
Posted

Was thinking about this the other day...Now to my knowledge the crew cab Silverado and Sierra's are being build in Mexico and some in the US.

 

What I'm wondering is if anyone has made it a term of the purchase to get one from the US plant?

  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply
galliher_nc Senior Enthusiast

galliher_nc

Posted
Posted

Doesn't work that way. Flint is overflow production for 1500 Crews, they aren't building them everyday.

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

I read last year that if you build a truck you can request on the build form that it comes from the US plant. Not sure if they are still offering that though.

galliher_nc Senior Enthusiast

galliher_nc

Posted
Posted

Order a DC or reg cab - they're not made in Mexico.

Or an HD. They're all made here, even the crew cabs.

darkfox1 Senior Enthusiast

darkfox1

Posted
Posted

You would think with the UAW being involved that UAW members and pro-union folks could tell the dealer "it comes from union labor or I walk."

 

I can't imagine the folks down in mexico are part of the uaw.

 

I've never tried that honestly. I just kind of assume they're made where they're made.

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

You would think with the UAW being involved that UAW members and pro-union folks could tell the dealer "it comes from union labor or I walk."

 

I can't imagine the folks down in mexico are part of the uaw.

 

I've never tried that honestly. I just kind of assume they're made where they're made.

Easy enough to go down to the dealer look at the vin or on the door jamb and purchase one made in the US with % of imported parts :)

 

 

Ryan

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

Not going to happen. If you want a 1500 crew cab chances are it'll be from Mexico.

GPGuy Senior Enthusiast

GPGuy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ya pretty much what I thought....
And ya most of the VIN's start with Mexico...:P

 

Ah well...DC could be an option I guess..

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

You would think with the UAW being involved that UAW members and pro-union folks could tell the dealer "it comes from union labor or I walk."

 

I can't imagine the folks down in mexico are part of the uaw.

 

I've never tried that honestly. I just kind of assume they're made where they're made.

What about the non-uaw parts used into the the uaw assembled truck?

What about uaw produced parts in a non-uaw assembled vehicle?

thetruck454 Enthusiast

thetruck454

Posted
Posted

What about the non-uaw parts used into the the uaw assembled truck?

What about uaw produced parts in a non-uaw assembled vehicle?

My mind just exploded...

14x4 Enthusiast

14x4

Posted
Posted

Order a DC or reg cab - they're not made in Mexico.

I bought a double cab rather than a crew cab simply because it was built in the US. Good thing, too - that extra bed space turned out to be more useful than cab space for me.

 

Too bad over 50% of parts are foreign. Maybe one of those aluminum Fords is in my future.

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

What about the non-uaw parts used into the the uaw assembled truck?

What about uaw produced parts in a non-uaw assembled vehicle?

 

 

Considering unions are making up a smaller and smaller portion of the work force, I feel like the amount of people who actually care would be negligible.

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

Hate to tell you even in Ford and Dodge, most of their parts are foreign as well. You can blame the outsourcing of jobs on the Clinton administration, they are the ones that setup the interstate trade act. I am surprised the USA still allows foreign companies to build here without paying import fees. Anything the US automakers make in over seas companies has import fees on them. Makes it hard for US cars to be competitive when the cars made in that country don't have that charge.

 

Don't even get me on the union side of the argument. Worked under the UAW when I worked for GM and personally don't see any reason for a union at all.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...