Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone have issues getting your truck to accept gas? Last week, I tried filling up and it spit gas back out the vent hole and filler neck. Pulled pump out and filler neck was totally full. Truck was at half tank before I started filling and wouldn't take any gas in. Tried a different station the next day with same result.

 

Dropped off at dealer and they were not able to find any issue. They put 5 gallons in just fine. Dealer couldn't recreate, and no TSBs, so did nothing. I picked it up and filled it just fine.

 

Last night I tried to fill again. Again at half tank. Same issue. Tried another station this morning. Same issue. Tried a third station this afternoon and it initially spit back out. I pulled pump out, tried again, and it started filling.

 

Anyone had this issue?

 

2016 Silverado 5.3 CC LTZ Z71

Posted

Search on youtube.com under "gas fill problems" Usually it is the vent control solenoid that is at fault.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I've had issues with some pumps in cold weather on previous vehicles. It generally helped to pull the pump out as much as possible so its not all the way in but not far enough out where it would fall out without holding it.

  • Like 1
Posted

Towed across the country (and obviously filled at many different stations) and haven't had any problems.

Posted

I believe it's a GM issue with the way the neck goes to the tank. I have the most issues at pumps with worn out nozzles. The station by my house I have to hold the nozzle while I pump because the nozzle is worn down and the slightest back flow will set it off. I have seen others with GM trucks or SUVs have the same issue. Stations with new nozzles that aren't worn out I can just put it in, latch it down and let it pump. Older nozzles i have to find a happy medium to let the pump flow on its own.

 

Keep in mind I have had no issues at the pump by my house with the wife's jeep or my dodge I used to own. But with my Silverado it can get frustrating. Had a lady in a new Tahoe throwing a fit because the pump kept shutting off on her. I showed her to barely set the nozzle in and let it flow at a slow rate. Any faster of a flow or putting the nozzle in deeper will kick the pump off.

  • Like 1
Posted

I've never had an issue until the station I use put in all new tanks and a brand new type of pumps. Can't go all in with full lock. I hate it when that happens!

Posted

Filled 3-4 times at my normal station. It's only 2 years old and hasn't gotten new equipment since I got the truck. Just the last 2 fills have been an issue.

 

I tried going deep, shallow, fast, slow...any variation I could. Couldn't get her to take it like she should. [emoji12]

 

Dealer advised I make sure I had it all the way in and start out slow. Then ease into full flow. Also said the new trucks have issues if you let them get extremely low, which it wasn't.

 

If it continues to be an issue and a resolution is found, I'll post back here.

Posted (edited)

I believe it's a GM issue with the way the neck goes to the tank. I have the most issues at pumps with worn out nozzles. The station by my house I have to hold the nozzle while I pump because the nozzle is worn down and the slightest back flow will set it off. I have seen others with GM trucks or SUVs have the same issue. Stations with new nozzles that aren't worn out I can just put it in, latch it down and let it pump. Older nozzles i have to find a happy medium to let the pump flow on its own.

 

Keep in mind I have had no issues at the pump by my house with the wife's jeep or my dodge I used to own. But with my Silverado it can get frustrating. Had a lady in a new Tahoe throwing a fit because the pump kept shutting off on her. I showed her to barely set the nozzle in and let it flow at a slow rate. Any faster of a flow or putting the nozzle in deeper will kick the pump off.

 

I've had this issue with many brands of vehicle. My current truck hasn't had this problem. It's not a GM problem. I had a beater Kia that constantly did it. It's a tank venting restriction, sometimes combined with overly sensitive gas station fuel pump nozzles.

 

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/242

Edited by HondaHawkGT
  • 7 months later...
Posted (edited)

Dealer ended up replacing the tank per bulletin 16-NA-100. Indication was an anti-siphon valve was the cause. No issues in the 5 or so fills since. I was having the issue with every fill prior to the new tank.

0d1fd8c792a5a1eb167c9eb02a0226e6.jpg

Edited by martha3065
  • Like 1
Posted

Also if ground is not flat at pump, be sure to have drivers side of vehicle higher than passenger side

Posted

I typically fill my tank at around half full but my last two tanks got down to the low fuel warning. I've never noticed the issue before but these last two fill ups were frustrating. The pump kept kicking off at the lowest setting. I ended up having to hold it.

 

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Posted

This happens 99% of the time when I gas up. Frustrating as heck. Used to do this periodically with my mustang and I'd have to turn the nozzle upside down just to get any gas at all. With this truck I just have to play with it til it will accept fuel and always have to hold it. Sucks.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Every time I pump gas in my 2015 Sierra long bed (34 Gallon Tank Std) is a workout. The handle will not stay locked and will shut off by itself. The only way to get it to accept gas is to stand there holding the trigger at halfway and stand very still for about five full minutes. Also the body panel metal around the filler neck is so thin it flexes if you let go of the handle. Vapor recovery hoses in CA are pretty sensitive anyway but this is ridiculous. This happens at every station I've used--even in Nevada.

 

It's the one thing I truly hate about this truck.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I have the same problem with my 16 crew cab. I am on my second tank and still have the problem. Dealer says to hold handle at a 90 degree angle to fill

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • That's interesting, I assume that would add to the cost of the oil but also I was forgetting to bring up the issue of the low tension rings allowing more oil past which in turn forces the cats to have more oil additives pass through them that wouldn't otherwise so they are creating that problem and of course its all in the name of fuel economy. Mind you the other issue would be the lack of additives that fight the formation of carbon within the piston ring grooves which turn the engine into an oil burner and with in this GM forums case is your average off the shelf Dexos licensed oil, meanwhile the other off the shelf oil being Valvoline's R&P isn't licensed and the only one that is which is that certain Mobil oil that came out recently ( its not even being marketed in Canada ) and only a fraction of vehicle owners are going to be using it out of all the other oils on the shelf or the quickie lube bay that meet the Dexos spec by way of actual licensing.    Also I suspect that its an easy excuse to pool the non turbo DI engines in with the turbo DI engines and design the oil to not have LSPI issues in the most demanding engines and short change the naturally aspirated DI by not offering a higher concentration of additive package they could handle and still not be at risk of LSPI.    I wonder if Amsoil flipped the switch just lately and did whatever packaging designation at the same time as I wonder what oil formulation I would have bought in May, of course I don't know when it was packaged at the factory vs how long it was in storage at the Edmonton warehouse. I know its been said at least in the past that the big players switch over to a reformulated oil but the packaging has not changed until they make that move as well so there is that cross over time where its a new formulation in a predated formula marked package. 
    • Hmm. A real reason to not just use the odometer to determine OCI?    
    • Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...